Anode bolt rounded

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Seems the reality is .......... the vast majority do no maintenance on their water heaters.
And that is precisely what the manufacturers prefer ...... they're in the business of "replacements". Probably cheaper for them to just cover the anode with insulation.
 
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The last one I did buried a 3" long 1 1/16" socket. Had to put on a small extension on so I could get ahold of it.
 
sarg said:
Seems the reality is .......... the vast majority do no maintenance on their water heaters.
And that is precisely what the manufacturers prefer ...... they're in the business of "replacements". Probably cheaper for them to just cover the anode with insulation.
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I could make more money replacing anode rods at $350 a pop. Do the math on that every 3-5 yrs.
 
Seems like it might be a good idea when getting a new water heater to immediately remove the anode or have the plumber remove the anode during installation of the water heater and wrap the threads with with teflon tape to make the removal 5 years down the road easier. I lucked out in changing a 5-year old anode a few weeks ago. It was very tight but an electric automotive-strength impact wrench removed it without any drama but it was in there tight, that's for sure. I installed a new aluminum anode from Lowes and wrapped the threads with teflon tape, but it should have been a magnesium anode, which I had to order from Rheem. I was able to easily remove the aluminum anode with a breaker bar when my magnesium replacement came in. I know I did not install the aluminum anode as tightly as the original factory-installed anode, but the teflon tape definitely made it easier to remove and I've had no leaking. There's no way the factory-installed anodes need to be as tight as they are.
 
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I thought the same as Jeg and assumed I was going to have a major struggle getting my factory set anode out. ..... but the Milwaukee M18 impact with1400 foot pounds of removal torque made it a non issue.
 
I would guess if you don't have much room above your tank (I have maybe 2 feet), you just bend the old comming out and use one if the segmented ones for replacement. However, I will not be replacing or doing anything to my 24 year old maytag. (It ain't broke, and I ain't fixing it. Guaranteed problems if I even look at it like I'm going to pull maintenance on it.)
 
If I had started with a 6 point socket intead of 12 I MIGHT not have this problem, But the metal on the anode bolt seems so soft even a 6 might not have worked, The metal is just rounding and curlying up more above the bolt with everything I try. The suggestion of trying a 26 mm did not work, it would not fit on the bolt. I asked JB Weld technical support about using that to attach a nut to the top of the anode, they said JB Weld would not withstand the torque and the nut would break off. Actually welding a nut on seems the best option but I don't have a welder. I think my options at this point would be to try a bolt extracting socket like from Gearwrench, but the bolt is so rounded, I don't know what size to get or if that would even work. (I'm wondering if Advance Auto might have those in the tools they lend out). My other thought is to disconnect the lines and the exhaust and remove top of the tank "lid" to be able to maybe get a pipewrench on the anode. I'm in the middle of a bathroom remodel and a few other projects, this was initially intended to be a 15 minute job one evening, so not sure when I'll get to mess with it again.
 
I think you are at the fork in the road of either letting it go or replacing the water heater now or in the near future.

As Ludington said, his concern would be damaging his water heater to try to remove his anode. And for you to go further with your removal attempt, without a welder to weld on a large nut so you can get a socket on it, I'd be afraid you will be damaging the water heater tank by trying any other removal method.

And realize that the anode rod is only there to reduce any corrosion of the tank components that are in contact with the water in the tank. Your water quality is also a factor on how bad you may experience corrosion. And as others have said, I don't replace anode rods either, and my water heaters have been lasting well over 15 years.
 
MicEd69 said:
I think you are at the fork in the road of either letting it go or replacing the water heater now or in the near future.

As Ludington said, his concern would be damaging his water heater to try to remove his anode. And for you to go further with your removal attempt, without a welder to weld on a large nut so you can get a socket on it, I'd be afraid you will be damaging the water heater tank by trying any other removal method.

And realize that the anode rod is only there to reduce any corrosion of the tank components that are in contact with the water in the tank. Your water quality is also a factor on how bad you may experience corrosion. And as others have said, I don't replace anode rods either, and my water heaters have been lasting well over 15 years.
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Yes, leaving it go may be the best option at this pont. It's just become a challenge LOL. I did get 15+ years from the prior tank. This one is 6 years old. Just kinda thinking to the future and not having to haul in a new tank when I'm 75...
 
I know most people around here just replace the water heater after 10 years, and forget about that damn anode rod. I believe you are beating a dead horse trying to damage your tank just for the anode rod replacement. Walk away, enjoy life, and just replace it all down the road.
 
havasu said:
I know most people around here just replace the water heater after 10 years, and forget about that damn anode rod. I believe you are beating a dead horse trying to damage your tank just for the anode rod replacement. Walk away, enjoy life, and just replace it all down the road.
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yea, you're probaby right at this point. I tried...
 
I'm no plumber (or welder lol), but this is what I had to do to get a stuck and rounded bolt off my car.
 

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With all the tools accumulated over 50 plus years that would not be a tough job. I would take an air grinder and a straight carbide and modify the bolt shoulders until a 6 point socket would fit.
Then a milwaukee M18 1/2 inch impact with the 1400 ft.lb. of breaking force would easily remove.
 
Arthur Dent said:
I'm no plumber (or welder lol), but this is what I had to do to get a stuck and rounded bolt off my car.
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is that JB Weld that you used to attach the second bolt? I asked JB Weld tech support about using it to attach a nut to the rounded bolt and they told me that the JB Weld would not withstand the torque of the impact driver and the nut woukd break off.
 
sarg said:
With all the tools accumulated over 50 plus years that would not be a tough job. I would take an air grinder and a straight carbide and modify the bolt shoulders until a 6 point socket would fit.
Then a milwaukee M18 1/2 inch impact with the 1400 ft.lb. of breaking force would easily remove.
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Tbe bolt is recessed below the top of the water tank, I'd have to remove the top to access the bolt
 
BigJake said:
is that JB Weld that you used to attach the second bolt? I asked JB Weld tech support about using it to attach a nut to the rounded bolt and they told me that the JB Weld would not withstand the torque of the impact driver and the nut woukd break off.
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That’s a hot weld. Buy one…….

Do it

Do it
Do it !

Do it 🤡
 
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