Anode bolt rounded

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Mitchell-DIY-Guy said:
Most tanks, by very definition, are "glass lined". No, not thick like a pop bottle, but thin like an enameled kitchen pot. The material DOES break and crack under certain stresses. When it does water then hits the steel tank and then corrosion and rust begin. If the glass never cracked or never got damaged, there's no need for an anode rod!
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No, it’s not like a kitchen pot with thin enamel. You need to read about how the coating is applied, it doesn’t break off or crack like glass
 
BigJake said:
Are you guys saying there is no way to get the rod out now that the bolt is rounded? Hate to have to replace the tank in a couple years because I can't replace the $35 anode. The tank is attached with flex lines, both gas and water so a little movement is not going to break a line.
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There is definitely a way to get the anode rod out, but like others have said, it may not be worth it. You can weld a 1" nut to the head of the anode rod, and then use an impact gun to remove it. Of course, you need an arc welder, the skill to do it, and a powerful enough impact gun. And that may also damage the tank, but you'll get that damn thing out!
 
It’s a porcelain enamel that’s mixed inna slurry then sprayed on and then fired at a very high temp. This finish actually becomes part of the metal to become a unique coating.

I promise it doesn’t chip off like a kitchen pan with a porcelain coating.
 
BigJake said:
LOL I am the curious type. As a kid I would disasseble things and put them back together just to see how they worked.
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Just like my son. At 12 years old, he would disassemble radios and TV's, just to see if he could put it back together correctly. He is now the Range master and master Gunsmith for the largest Sheriff's Department in the United States.
 
I don't know alot about the glass lining itself. Is this what your talking about.
 

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Our son had a middle aged tank, so I bought him a new anode rod to be proactive. Even with a big breaker bar the old one would not move. Then bought an electric impact wrench from Harbor Freight as I was determined by that point. That thing cranked and cranked so long that I honestly figured my efforts would be futile after all. FINALLY it broke loose. Two points: the old anode rod did not look that bad. Oh well. And fortunately I did buy the sectional type rod for the new one. The old one was hitting the ceiling so if there would have been no way to get a new one-piece unit into the tank.
 
If the above suggestions fail and you do decide to continue, I like your JB Weld idea, if it will hold (haven't used it). But with some patience another option might be to carefully cut new 'sides' onto the bolt head using something like a multitool or rotary tool, and then use a different (smaller) socket on that.

Also make sure you leave 'most' (not all, because it will come out the top) of the water in the tank to give it some weight to minimize rotation/movement of the tank while you are working at it.
 
MicEd69 said:
There is definitely a way to get the anode rod out, but like others have said, it may not be worth it. You can weld a 1" nut to the head of the anode rod, and then use an impact gun to remove it. Of course, you need an arc welder, the skill to do it, and a powerful enough impact gun. And that may also damage the tank, but you'll get that damn thing out!
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This would be the way I’d go about it if I was forced at gunpoint to remove the anode.
 
BigJake said:
The interesting think is that the new anode rod that i bought has a plastic head/bold. Don't know if that will make it easier or harder to remove in the future...
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If you truly found a replacement anode with a PLASTIC bolt head it is the LAST type I would utilize. Steel only.
Doesn't seem feasible ... plastic head on metal threads ???
 
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Some of those anode nuts are down 2-3 inches deep because of the insulation. Have fun trying to weld a nut on those.
 
TomFOhio said:
Some of those anode nuts are down 2-3 inches deep because of the insulation. Have fun trying to weld a nut on those.
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All of that can be cut away if a guy was determined. Then reapply the foam and a patch to the metal.

But I dont replace anodes.
 
sarg said:
If you truly found a replacement anode with a PLASTIC bolt head it is the LAST type I would utilize. Steel only.
Doesn't seem feasible ... plastic head on metal threads ???
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Nor does that seem like a reasonable design. For an anode rod to work, there must be an electrical connection between the rod and the tank. So, there would have to be some part of the anode rod connected to the tank at the threads, one would assume.
 
TomFOhio said:
Some of those anode nuts are down 2-3 inches deep because of the insulation. Have fun trying to weld a nut on those.
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Top of my anode is only about 1/2" below the top of the tank so it is accessibe. It would be nice if they put them above the tank so a wrench could be put on the anode
 
MicEd69 said:
Nor does that seem like a reasonable design. For an anode rod to work, there must be an electrical connection between the rod and the tank. So, there would have to be some part of the anode rod connected to the tank at the threads, one would assume.
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This is the anode I got at Lowes. I didn't open the package in case I can't get the old one out and need to return it but looking at it closer thru the plastic, I now believe the threads are steel and just painted plack making it look like it was plastic.

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BigJake said:
Top of my anode is only about 1/2" below the top of the tank so it is accessibe. It would be nice if they put them above the tank so a wrench could be put on the anode
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I agree. It really sucks to get them out. They must put them on with a machine or something.
 
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