Anode bolt rounded

[BigJake]

DIYer. First time attempting to change a water heater anode rod. The only 1 1/16" socket I had was a 12 point socket, so I started with that which was a big msitake as it started to round the unmovable head of the anode rod. So I went to Lowes and bought a 6 point deep well 1 1/16" impact socket. I started with a breaker bar on the 6 point socket but the socket was just lifting off the bolt (and rounding more) so I moved to putting a 24" pipe wrench on the socket and tapping it with a sledge since any leverage was just walking the hot water tank aross the floor. Bolt still wouldn't budge with the 24" wrench, so I sprayed it with PB Blaster and orderd a corded impact driver. Impact driver came today and as seen in the attached photo, it only rounded off the bolt even more. The bolt is so rounded that I was now able to tap on a 1" socket (but again I only had a 12 point) but it only spun. I assume I'm dealing with cheap Chineese steel. It is an A.O Smith tank. What are my options now? Do I have any hope of removing this anode rod? I dont know if I now went out and bought a 6 point 1", if I could tap that onto the bolt? I'm afraind of damaging the lining of the tank if I tap too hard, is that a concern? My other thought is, can I JB Weld something to the top of the bolt that I can put a socket on? Any help appreaciated.

 

[havasu]

Many water heater companies strongly urge people to avoid 12 point sockets, for the reasons you just found out. I wouldn't worry about the headache of removing the anode. How old is the tank?

Just remember....If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

 

[BigJake]

Many water heater companies strongly urge people to avoid 12 point sockets, for the reasons you just found out. I wouldn't worry about the headache of removing the anode. How old is the tank?

Just remember....If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

I installed the tank in 2018. I believe it had a 5 year warranty. I was told the only difference between tanks with a 5 year warranty vs 10 years is one anode rod vs two. I've also read that replacing the anode rod as it erodes will significantly prolong the life of the tank. So I figured for the price of the rod it was definitely worth it...

 

[TomFOhio]

I would do like havasu suggested and leave it alone. The next time you will be prepared. If you keep cranking on it
you are going to bust a water line or something.

 

[BigJake]

I would do like havasu suggested and leave it alone. The next time you will be prepared. If you keep cranking on it
you are going to bust a water line or something.

Are you guys saying there is no way to get the rod out now that the bolt is rounded? Hate to have to replace the tank in a couple years because I can't replace the $35 anode. The tank is attached with flex lines, both gas and water so a little movement is not going to break a line.

 

[havasu]

You can try tapping a 6 point socket and using a impact driver. But first, do you know how the anode rod is currently doing, or is this done for inspection purposes beforehand?

 

[BigJake]

You can try tapping a 6 point socket and using a impact driver. But first, do you know how the anode rod is currently doing, or is this done for inspection purposes beforehand?

I do not know the status of the anode. The heater is 6 years old and we have pretty hard water, so I'm assuming it needs replaced, My intent was to remove the rod for inspection and replace if necessary or monitor to replace when needed. I tried a 1 1/16" 6 point socket with an impact driver after the blt was already partially rounded by the 12 point socket, but it just rounded the bolt more. Are you saying to try and see if I can tap on a 1" 6 point? Is ther any risk of damaging the lining tapping on the socket? If I might damage the tank by tapping, I might be better to just let it be.

 

[sarg]

I would give a 26mm 6 pt. socket a try ....... with an impact wrench.

1 1/16= 1.060
26mm =1.023

 

[havasu]

Or find a Metwrench set that goes up that big. They grab on the flats, not the points.
Regardless, I'd be careful and not bang to hard. Maybe better to leave alone?

 

[BigJake]

I would give a 26mm 6 pt. socket a try ....... with an impact wrench.

1 1/16= 1.060
26mm =1.023

Thanks, I'll pick up a 26 mm and give it a try

 

[GReynolds929]

Irwin makes bolt grip extractors. Not sure if they go that big tho.

 

[BigJake]

Or find a Metwrench set that goes up that big. They grab on the flats, not the points.
Regardless, I'd be careful and not bang to hard. Maybe better to leave alo

Irwin makes bolt grip extractors. Not sure if they go that big tho.

Thanks, I never saw those before.

 

[Mitchell-DIY-Guy]

At some point you just give up. The more "violence" you apply to the head of the bolt, particularly with impact drivers, etc. you risk adding cracks to the glass liner of the tank. That for certain will give you trouble.

 

[Twowaxhack]

The tank doesn’t have glass that breaks like most people think. Look up and read the process of you’re interested.

 

[Mitchell-DIY-Guy]

Most tanks, by very definition, are "glass lined". No, not thick like a pop bottle, but thin like an enameled kitchen pot. The material DOES break and crack under certain stresses. When it does water then hits the steel tank and then corrosion and rust begin. If the glass never cracked or never got damaged, there's no need for an anode rod!

 

[BigJake]

At some point you just give up. The more "violence" you apply to the head of the bolt, particularly with impact drivers, etc. you risk adding cracks to the glass liner of the tank. That for certain will give you trouble.

Good point. I guess I'm kind of in a catch 22. If I already cracked the liner with the previous failed attempts with the impact driver then it will start rusting soon, assuming the anode rod is pretty much gone. Or the liner could still be OK and I could get several more years out of it. I'm thinking I'll give the 26 mm socket a try as sarg suggested (since I already ordered the socket) and if that does not work I'll give up and hope for the best. I'll report back on the outcome when the socket arrives. Thanks,

 

[TomFOhio]

This tank is only 4 years old. The rod on the right is what was taken out.

 

[havasu]

Now you went and did it Tom! This member will see your pic and bring out the cutting torch because dammit, come hell or high water, he will want to tear open that tank! (kinda reminds me of my son!)

 

[BigJake]

This tank is only 4 years old. The rod on the right is what was taken out.

yea, when I replaced this tank 6 years ago, I removed the anode out of the old tank that had started to leak just out of curiosity and all that was left was a 6" strand less than 1/8" thick. I did get like 15 years out of that tank though. I don't remember the top of that anode being recessed below the top of the tank tho (could have been). I kinda remember putting a pipe wrench on it with like a 4' "cheater bar" to break it free. The interesting think is that the new anode rod that i bought has a plastic head/bold. Don't know if that will make it easier or harder to remove in the future...

 

[BigJake]

Now you went and did it Tom! This member will see your pic and bring out the cutting torch because dammit, come hell or high water, he will want to tear open that tank! (kinda reminds me of my son!)

LOL I am the curious type. As a kid I would disasseble things and put them back together just to see how they worked.