outdoor faucet replacement

[cxydnb]

home built in 68

want to replace this part (outdoor faucet) , seems i will need to cut drywall on the left of pipe to position a successful cut
i'm using a multi-tool to cut the copper pipe...

i'm not sure what the beam supports. do i need to determine if it is weight bearing?

anyone have a guide or tips?

thanks, you guys!

pics taken under kitchen sink

IMG_20190930_172342_DROj

• cxydnb
• Oct 1, 2019

IMG_20190930_172316_DROj

• cxydnb
• Oct 1, 2019

IMG_20190914_153952_DROj

• cxydnb
• Oct 1, 2019

 

[frodo]

looks like t would be less trouble to move the hose bib over.

drill a new hole from outside to inside ...use the old faucet as our reference point

 

[cxydnb]

@frodo thnx for your feedback!

do you by chance have a rough idea on what tools i would use?

 

[Jeff Handy]

Wow, maybe I am missing something, but it is hard to figure out what you are showing and what you want to cut, point out, avoid, etc.

Maybe add some arrows or markups to indicate what is what?

Drilling through brick and wood exterior is no biggie.

 

[Jeff Handy]

Can you just repair, and not replace, the outdoor faucet?

 

[cxydnb]

Jeff,
i'm trying to replace the copper pipe going across that's missing. the interior picture was taken from under the kitchen sink.

i want to avoid making unnecessary cuts in the wood beam


you're likely correct. maybe i can just take the old fixture handles apart & restore it, saving $20 on a new fixture

Gray Circle: cold water line
Red Circle: hose assembly + a 90 degree elbow?

 

[Jeff Handy]

So you are saying you have to get into that space that is currently blocked by wood?

Yes, a multitool will get you in there.
You might not have much room to work.

When you are done, you can add some new wood to sister onto the section that has been cut, if you even need to.

As frodo suggested, you can just drill a new hole through the bricks and come in there.
You can buy a huge wide expensive masonry bit, or just get about a 5/16 inch one and drill a series of holes in a big enough circle, with the holes not quite touching each other.

Then you can bang out the core of what’s left with a cold chisel or a big screwdriver.
Then drill through the wood behind the brick, and you have a new unobstructed hole to put in a new sill cock, you can add a short piece of pipe and an elbow.
You can use sharkbites, as you already started to there.

 

[walker63]

Is the exterior wall on the left side of the photo?

If so, wouldn't it be the easiest solution to simply purchase a frost proof sillcock of sufficient length to get inside far enough to connect up with the existing connection?

How thick is that exterior wall?

A 12" or 14" sillcock should get in far enough to make the connection easy to accomplish.

I'm not a plumber but love reading all the advice here.