Options for a New Leaking PVC Fitting into Kitchen Sink Floor Drain

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WiiGame

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To get right to it (I'll answer questions to flesh this out as you need it)...

In Maryland (my own house)...
REPLACING...
  • Fernco 2"x2" coupling between... (the next 2 black bullets)
  • 2" PVC vert. pipe (going up into Char 2x2" long-turn elbow, eventually leading up to sinks)
  • 2" PVC pipe into floor
    • pipe warped on the water side (>2")
    • 3" high out of floor of kitchen sink cabinet
REPLACING WITH...
THE PROBLEM:
  • after Oakey solvent weld (yes, purple + cement + twist + hold), this joint leaks on warped side between Wye bottom hub and floor pipe
  • I just welded this a few hours ago (as of this writing) ... if that matters
  • all my other welds on this project appear to be great and holding fine (no leaks or movement)
  • this was the one joint where things never fit tight during dry mock-up (I hoped the cement would remedy that ... I mean, what else to do on a 2" in-floor pipe + a 2" hub?)
  • a good 30min after weld, I thought I saw movement between the joints (seen through the 45 hole) ... thought it might be my eyes (hoped)

WHAT I ASK OF YOU ALL: What can I do now? (the sooner the better, please! From: family with young children without a kitchen sink)
As I see it, MY KNOWN OPTIONS ARE (besides the obvious, "call a plumber to save me"):
  1. Look-up articles, forum posts, and YouTube videos re: whether there's any way to undo the floor weld without hacksawing my last usable inch from floor?
    ...which is a precursor to...
  2. ... then put the old crap back together (I think it all still works).
  3. ... OR then get a PPI Compression 2" Wye (to get a better, removable, retryable seal without Fernco).
  4. BUT, is there any other acceptable option where I don't have to remove the leaking Wye at all and I can somehow seal that up and move forward?

EXPECTED FOLLOW-UP QUESTION #1: Why do you want a Wye on the floor?
A: To install an easy-access clean-out on the 45 at the bottom of this drain. (and eliminate the Fernco, of course)

But WHY? A: The long, shallow-incline pipe from the back to the front of the house is ALWAYS backing up. Crap probably cools 3/4 of the way down the horizontal. The Fernco was probably put in when the first plumber to this house (post-sale) cut the original pipe in order to snake it. I've disassembled all this old plumbing countless times to hand-snake it myself. Any future owner will have to snake this periodically or have it done.

I'll leave any other f/u questions to the experts here. I'll answer as quickly as I can. I have a big stake in getting this done ASAP.

NOTE: I did LOTS of research on how to do this right before starting. I've probably heard all of the "level 1" advice multiple times. I think I'd need level 2 or 3 advice from here. But please offer anything.
 

WiiGame

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Thanks, all. I took Twowaxhack's advice as soon as it came in. I was able to use 2 pipe wrenches to all-too-easily twist the Wye off the floor pipe ... 5 hours after weld. I think that says a lot about how the weld didn't take on this particular fitting/pipe. But it does give me options now. And again, this was the only joint that was just never tight in the dry runs.

What I know for sure is that the floor pipe was warped and that the Fernco worked on this warped pipe for years. I've improved that warp somewhat by cutting it off, but what I'm guessing is that the floor pipe is still warped just enough to make a standard wye fitting impossible by traditional means.

From here, I'm going to try the compression wye on my setup, and if that fails, I'm back to the Fernco that was originally on the exit (or a new one, just to get it working again).

Separately, when I found this leak, the water ran slow (to me) without an apparent backup, but for that I'll post a separate thread for help with a picture of the whole setup. I appreciate knowing now that here pictures appear to be preferred.
 

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