An anal OCD person contemplates house re-pipe decisions around Pex.

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Twowaxhack said:
I wish I lived close, I’d knock that out for you. I love it when the drywall is gone and everything’s opened up like that.

I could replace that in a couple hours.

I’m 5 hrs away.
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Appreciate the suggestion. My wife is already laughing as she thinks the wall will be down for months. I said 1-2 months as I need to get the materials get it done then schedule drywall people, but once I have everything was going to do this over a few weekends. The one thig I was going to to has zone the plumbing. I was going to put 3-4 outlet pair of manifolds in basements so I can create 4 zones, Kitchen, main floor bathroom/laundry then each bathroom upstairs. Taking the darn ceiling down has nee more a pain than I thought, burned up my drywall bits in the dremmel and then tried a more comical approach that did not go well. Ordered a bunch more bits to finish ceiling this weekend. Hope to get the Rehau stuff ordered soon, looks like they have everything I need except 3/4 to 1/2 couplings, but I can always use third party for that if need to.

I am actually looking forward to doing this, I enjoyed doing some of the basics I was able to do with my remodel, trim, electrical, etc. All the heavy lifting was left to contractor and subs.
 
Twowaxhack said:
I would use Rehau brand pex B and stainless fittings with copper crimp rings.

I don’t like making short bends in the pipe.

I like 20’ sticks to repipe with unless I have a very long run to make.

It’s easy unless you make it hard.
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I missed this earlier, isn't Rehau Pex A? And why copper over stainless cinch?
 
Ole Dodge said:
This isn’t a recommendation, but, in 1974, I built a home in north MS. I plumbed it with PVC and CPVC. I lived there over 10 years and had two in an uninsulated area freeze when the temperature was in single digits. I built another home in 1992 in middle TN., using the same pipe. Thirty years this year with zero issues. During that time I’ve had friends with copper to experience pinholes which caused extensive damage. In no way am I recommending not to use copper, PEX or whatever. Just sharing my experience. Let me say that I’m thankful for not having any problems. I agree with twowaxhack (not sure if I got the name right), that i like rigid pipe. I hate to try to work with coiled anything. I like the neat look when rigid pipe is used. Incidentally, what would fellows recommend for air compressor piping.
Thanks! I really enjoy this forum.
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I was liking CPVC when first suggested, less leaching and then I read about brittle pie, so I got scared. Then when I decided to do it my self I need the flexibility of Pex now. The one firms here does nothing but CPVC for over 10 years. With Pex I figure repairs or mods will be super easy as I will buy the tools.
 
hdtvkeith said:
Once I educated my self, I quickly took it off the list.
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I’m not knocking anyone who uses it and I know it can be used with success.

I shouldn’t have said I wouldn’t use it because I’m sure I could dream up a scenario where it might be attractive to use.

Let’s just say 999 times out of a 1,000 I’m going to use pex or copper before cpvc.
 
Twowaxhack said:
I wish I lived close, I’d knock that out for you. I love it when the drywall is gone and everything’s opened up like that.
I could replace that in a couple hours.
I’m 5 hrs away.
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Who doesn't like a clear open space to work?
Don't you want to take the wife away for a weekend in hotLanta? ;)
 
Wow 13,000 quote to repipe? That's a lot. I guess because you are two stories so it's double the cost than my house. I have a small 60 year old Florida home with copper in the terrazo slab. So far, the original copper pipe in the slab is still good. But once that leaks in the slab I will have to re-pipe. Lots of guys here just drop PEX from the super tight/small attics. But I can crawl through my attic since I've done it a lot to update electrical stuff. So I too will just drop PEX from the attic through the walls and have a friend punch it out through the walls. Even if I paid someone to do it I think it would be 7,000. Not 13,000.
 
Yeah, I have I think 14 fixtures, which is what most of them did was count connections. I had one around $7K, but that was verbal, he never looked at the job and never followed up. The one that quoted CPVC was actually $9K and they had a team that would close the walls/ceiling back up, but once I read up on CPVC I ran away. Once I finish opening kitchen ceiling and wall behind it this does not look bad. Basically truck line down the basement ceiling that branch to downstairs kitchen and bathroom/laundry room. Similar in kitchen ceiling the trunks go up stairs through kitchen ceiling and branch to each fixture. I am going to create 4 zones and run 2 sets of tucks up stairs, one for each bathroom and similar in basement for first floor. Each zone will have a set of vales to cut it off. Biggest issue is I am going to have to build a custom manifolds with tees as I want to have each zone with 3/4 and all the manifolds I see have 1/2 runs.
 
He probably never looked at the job or followed up because he was so busy doing installs that there’s no time to come look. He gives verbals on the phone. I use to do that.
 
Why do custom manifolds ? Do you really think it’s going to make a difference for the good ?

I know it doesn’t.

Just pipe it like a normal house and put the extra money in the bank.

Don’t get caught up in the idea that manifold systems are better because they are Not, it’s a gimmick
 
I wanted to have the ability to shut down zones/rooms if there was a future plumbing issue or work without having to shutdown the entire house. The house layout does not lend itself to homeruns. I don't see it adding much cost, some tees and valves. deciding between sweating it of finding a place to rent a propose and just make it. Basically 3/4 in across 3 tees with 3/4 out and an attached ball valve with F1960 on the loop side. Was trying to avoid doing it in pex since I wanted the tees close together. I hope to have my drawing and diagram done in a few days as that will generate my order sheet.

And as my wife will tell you I over engineer every project I do or spec. My kitchen tile sits on 3/4 Advantech which sits on the builder 5/8.
 
You’re adding pipe, fittings and valves.

Guess what ? Those are the things that leak one day 😉

So the more you have the more chances for leaks.
 
I'm in agreement with Twowax. Since you are handy and can do your own repairs, you don't need to isolate systems in your house. You can just do a shut-off outside, go pick up your new repair parts, get home and fix the problem. It's better to make the piping as simple as possible to keep from restricting flow and for reducing the amount of solder places that will fail later. In my 60 year old copper piped house, the only plumbing that has failed is a few soldered joints because solder is soft metal and will eventually fail. Don't solder a bunch of stuff if you don't have to. And every time you install a connection, it reduces flow and it causes distortion and eats away at the joint from turbulence.
 
If you use good pipe and fittings you won’t have any leaks to repair.

Do a manifold system if you want but I’d never put one on my house. Way too much pipe

Let me make clear what I’m calling a manifold system. Home runs to each fixture.
I’d never do that with my water supply.
 
Twowaxhack said:
If you use good pipe and fittings you won’t have any leaks to repair.

Do a manifold system if you want but I’d never put one on my house. Way too much pipe

Let me make clear what I’m calling a manifold system. Home runs to each fixture.
I’d never do that with my water supply.
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Hmm, you have a valid point I did not think about. Sure would make this job even easier. Plan right now is to use the Rehau with their fittings. As soon as I finish opening last walls and ceiling I will tally up final order sheet and order.
 
I’d probably order everything online except for the pipe.
 
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