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So went to a friends house about a toilet that’s leaking through the flapper. It’s a Glacier Bay (Home Depot) brand. The insides are all fluidmaster stuff. Now the flapper itself is marked Fluidmaster 540. Looks bigger and beefier than ones I replaced before and can’t find it for sale alone...

Fill in you pit with concrete. Then I always sit a thank on 3 bricks.

Luck is always on my side with Teflon tape. But for water, I always use the thicker gray tape.

Also, when you’re flushing, push and hold the lever down to get more of a complete flush.

Is it possible to set a electric heater below the floorboards to throw some heat in the area of the water pipes.

A friend of mine asked me to install a water heater for him today. I’ve put dozens of regular ones in before but never a power vent which is what this is. I’ve worked with PVC so that is no problem so other than hooking up the PVC vent to the exterior vent is there any other deal I have to be...

When I flush, I’ve made it a habit to hold down the handle to get a nice long flush to help guard against clogs. Low flush toilets aren’t the best things for keeping pipes open.

Can you focus in on the clean plastic sticker on it so we could read it?

I hope it’s OK to put this thread in here. I did not see a section for heating and I hope this is close enough to a plumbing problem. If not, moderator can delete. I would like to put a smart thermostat for my heating system in my house, but the one I’d like requires a C wire. I have hot water...

I will google them and ck them out. Tks.

Have to do some repair work to my niece’s basement which is a very old farm house. Basically replacing a rats nest of all sorts of piping down there with pex. One like goes out through the wall to the barn which is 3/4 galvanized pipe. I have some good size pipe wrenches and hoping to...

I would not recommend it but if you’re desperate, you could hook up the hose and leave it under the sink. I would definitely put a piece of wood between the trigger and the housing and tape it there so it can never be accidentally triggered on.

Or drain for a water softener

Tks. Only ever did a small job with pex. Anxious to clean up the mess of galvanized, copper, cpvc, and plain white pex there and put together a need job with valves on everything and bypass on the softener.

I’m about to help me niece in straightening up her basement water lines. As for the type of connectors I’ll be using, I’ll use cinch ss ones. So with using these, can I use pex a tubing or must I use pex b? I know pex a is usually used with cold expansion clamps but I’d prefer using pex a...

I’m betting either your vale there is clogged shut there with debris or your contractor shut off a valve somewhere when he repaired the pipe and didn’t open it back up. Trace your cold line backwards

Flush all the attorneys

If your water shut off is a ball valve, here’s a controller.

If they have a sewage system, won’t the bleach kill the microbes used to digest the waist?

Nothing better than finding the root to a mystery problem like you had there. Enjoy the fresh air