My bathroom repair project

[Zanne]

I vacuumed up debris & took the wall panels down. I was going to do aquadefense but the filter in my shopvac isn't working so it blew dust all over the room.
This is what it looks like currently.

I need to find a decent stepstool that is taller than the tub that I can set into the tub and work on the aquadefense on the edges (after I trim some plastic and put on some more tape and protection for the tub.

 

[Zanne]

My DIY small crevices attachment for the shopvac made with a straw, hot glue, and foam board.

Spray foam in the cavity for the shelf of the back wall panel.

 

[Zanne]

Popped holes through the locations for shower arm (I used a cement board screw to simplify things and ran it through from the closet side).

Controls & tub spout:
These were taken after the 1st coat of AquaDefense. I've since added a 2nd one.

I actually used it more for reinforcement than water sealing. I spread it over some cracks. I'm going to thinset over all of the spots with cracks and aquadefense. Will tape seams and screw holes.
My bag of thinset is currently behind some cases of water in the truck so I will have to wait until my back is up to getting out more cases to grab it. I brought in one case but my back is screaming at me for it.

 

[Zanne]

I put the fibatape on. It was easier to work with than I'd thought. I'm going to smooth it out and make sure its secure later. Got woken up by cats and am going to go back to sleep. LOL. I'll get pictures later. I almost derped and started to put tape over the tub spout hole.

 

[Zanne]

I ran into a small problem on the right side. I miscalculated the height when I put the shims at the top and after the board was cut, the shims were to high. So the board sunk in a bit at the top. I didn't notice until after I did Aquadefense and put the mesh tape on. No removing those screws now. The main issue with that was that it means the trim doesn't fit properly on the top.
So, I have a few options:
Leave the trim at the top off on that side
Use enough thinset to make it more even and keep the trim
Cut the edge of the trim so it fits and still covers the exposed cement board at the top
Cut the edge AND pad out with thinset a bit more.

Even with the walls out of whack, the surround disguises it fairly well. Also, that center panel is the bane of my existence. Good thing they made it sturdy because it fell so many times and slammed into stuff as I manhandled it into place. Gotta give Mustee credit for making it strong and flexible. I'm going to get help for gluing it up because I am a total monkey.

I stapled up the right side edge trim and then did the left side, but when I pushed the left side panel back in place it shifted back farther. It had moved forward when I was doing the trim location. Now I have to figure out how to get them out so I can move the trim back a bit. The right side panel hangs over the edge of the tub, but I'm going to use trim and stuff to disguise it all & cover gaps. It doesn't have to be perfect, I just want it to be functional.

This is a picture I took before I realized the left panel wasn't aligned properly.
I'll take more pics of the current situation. I had to move stuff out of my way so its in the tub and it looks like a disaster area. Shoutout to the Arrow electric staple gun. It works pretty well. I got heavy duty stainless steel staples for it.
Stomach isn't feeling well today so I'm taking it easy.

 

[havasu]

Lookin' good!

 

[BlueSkyHigh]

I'd use it "as is" but can't find the faucet!

 

[Zanne]

Thanks, Havasu.

Blueskyhigh, I really wish I could. Need the thinset up so the glue can grab it. Once the panels are glued on, I will be able to drill the holes for the controls & the tub spout. I don't want to try to drill through before the wall panels are fully secured and have them move on me.

 

[BlueSkyHigh]

IMHO you are a true heroine and have gone where angels fear to tread. Kudos!

 

[Zanne]

Thanks, Blueskyhigh. This project has been quite the journey. I'm really hoping to have it done by next week if possible. I'm ready to apply thinset but I'm trying to figure out the ratio of water to powder since I won't be using the entire bag. The only size available was 50lbs and man, did my back complain when I carried that thing in. LOL. I set it on the side of the tub for now but will have to move it out of the way to put down plastic and protect the floor & tub. I've decided I'm going to build the thinset out a bit more on the right side where the board sunk in so the wall will be plumb. I will cram the stuff in with my hands if I have to. LOL.
This is how it looks with trim up:


These are the instructions for the thinset:
1. Into a clean mixing container, pour the following amounts of clean water according to the bag sizes indicated: For a 25-lb. (11,3-kg) bag: About 2.5 to 3 U.S. qts. (2,37 to 2,84 L) of water For a 50-lb. (22,7-kg) bag: About 5 to 6 U.S. qts. (4,73 to 5,68 L) of water
2. Gradually add the appropriate amount of powder while slowly mixing, using an electric drill with an angled cross-blade mixer or double-box mixer.

I know a quart is 4 cups. I need to figure out how to convert the weight of the mix to cups. I know with Portland cement it's like 1lb = 1.27 cups (I found a calculator/conversion chart) but I don't know about this stuff. My brain is not wanting to do the math. I'm worried that if I do the mix until it looks right method that it might set up too fast to work with.

Oh wait... I just found a Q&A where they said "4 parts powder to one part water mix ratio" after making sure to mix the powder up so the polymers are evenly distributed. 10 to 20 min work time. Woohoo. (I'm bolding that so I remind myself). I know hard water made the leveling mix set faster so I might use filtered water and put it in the fridge. Cold water gives more working time. I think I will put a cap on the bucket while I'm spreading stuff.

Gonna have to shake that bag like shake & bake. LOL. I was feeling like a complete wuss when I was moving the bag bc I thought it was only 25lbs but then I saw I got 50lbs and felt a little less wussy.

I think I'm going to start out with 4 cups of water and 16 cups of powder. If I use it up, I can mix more.

Now I need to organize all my stuff, make sure I have ALL of the tools I need, put on a painter's suit, spread plastic and tape all over to protect the floor & tub.
Lis of things:

• Coveralls (I might have some somewhere already)
• Gloves
• Tape
• Plastic covering
• Wet measuring cup
• Dry measuring cup
• Small bucket to separate powder to pour in to water
• Mixing attachment for drill
• Paint stirring stick (have plenty)
• Trowels/taping knifes for spreading thinset
• Scoop thingy for getting thinset/mud out of bucket
• Extra water (in case mix needs more and to clean tools)
• Bottled water (to keep me hydrated)
• 5 gallon bucket w/ lid
• Cheap sponge to wipe stuff
• Paper towels
• A working spine & brain

Anything I'm missing? Any advice?

Is spreading thinset pretty much the same as spreading drywall "mud" for the purpose of sealing tape and stuff? I think I will start with the left wall first-- starting at the top-- and then work my way to the right. I don't care if the stuff is perfect so long as it seals the tape on. The back and edges of the surround panels have ridges, the corners of the surround are curved so small bumps/imperfections won't matter.

Edit because I forgot to mention that I marked the back of the right surround panel where the holes will go so I know to not put adhesive there. Unfortunately the controls will be smack in the middle of some of the ridges-- but that might just mean that area has better reinforcement so it may work out better that way. I'm probably going to make a foam board mockup of the hole for the controls to cover the area on the board when I'm applying thinset. I'll mark a circle around the tub spout hole too. Gonna go do that in a few min.

 

[Zanne]

I've mistakenly been saying thinset, but I'm working with modified mortar, not thinset. Derp. Does mortar count as "mud"?

 

[Zanne]

I picked up a framing square and a square thing with a level on it. At least I think that was in there. Not sure. They might have missed that one. I'll have to check again. The associate had to go back in to get my frozen stuff. They said they put it in my stuff but I wasn't feeling well. I'll have to check when there is a lull in the rain.

My miter saw & stand are allegedly arriving today. One of them started in TX this morning and the other was about an hour north. The delivery drivers always try to deliver to me last because of the road conditions. Jostles their contents too much so they want to unload as much as they can before coming out here. I'll have to remain vigilant.

Oh, the framing square is a rafter square but its nice and long so it will almost reach the end of the cement board. I'll put some painter's tape on it and press it against the wall after I apply the mortar. I can use it to scrap off excess and see where I need to add more to square up the corners. I can also use the smaller plastic triangle thing as well. Still need to get a picture of it.

I wish my guts were cooperating because I wanted to get everything set up.

@havasu , you've used mapei modified mortar before, any tips?

 

[havasu]

Since you are only using the thinset to waterproof the concrete backer board, use a flat trowel or 6" wide putty knife, and smooth the joints where you placed the fiberglass drywall tape. Smooth is best since you are just lining with the thin plastic shower wall panel.

 

[Zanne]

Thanks!
I'm not really using it to waterproof, I'm using it to shore up the seams & corners & to reinforce where screws went through. It's more of a stabilizing thing-- and to give the adhesive something to grab. i will have to build up some in a few spots to square things up, but I may do multiple layers and let them dry in between.

The paneling is actually thicker than I expected. I think around 1/8" or slightly thicker. It's thicker at the edges and at some ridges in the middle. Still has good flex to it though.

I want to make sure that at least the side with the grab bar is squared up so the grab bar will attach properly. If my guts weren't being a pain today I'd be working on it right now.

 

[Zanne]

I officially suck at mudding. I mixed as per directions but it came out too dry. Added a bit more water. Was too ambitions and had too much of a mix. Between the fast setting time and my inexperience/slowness, I wasted more than half the batch because it dried up. I even put a lid on the bucket. Good thing I had my coveralls bc I got that stuff all over myself. I am a total monkey. I somehow lost the end of the thumb on my left glove.

I wasn't sure where to begin and then moved too slowly. So glad I kept a bucket of water nearby to add a little water to the mix and dip the tools to rinse. Wetting the knives seemed to help with spreading stuff. I did end up resorting to grabbing handfuls of the mortar and slapping it on the walls. Some of my tape over the screws moved but the holes got filled in.

This is how much I got done before the mix dried up & I was soaked with sweat inside my suit:


It's a hot mess but at least I got something done. And none of it is on so thick that it will mess with the surround- a least I hope not. I do have a grinding tool and dremel tool in worst case scenario. After I take care of other stuff tomorrow I'm going to take another crack at it with a smaller batch. Maybe line the bucket with a plastic bag so I can take it out if it gets hardened and the bucket isn't ruined like the poor bucket I used before. I'll see if I'm able to dump the dried stuff out later. It was dark so I couldn't see to take it out. Need to dump the dirty water bucket too and refill it. Going to refrigerate some water for the next batch. Slows down setup time.

I forgot to rinse my bucket scraper. Oops. I hope the stuff comes off enough that it will still work ok. I'm glad I taped the bejeezus out of the edge of the tub bc I dropped so much mud on it. I bought some smaller knives for smaller areas as well. And I will be keeping a damp shop towel handy in case I need to slap stuff up with my hand again.

 

[Mitchell-DIY-Guy]

You are supposed to mix that thinset to the consistency of peanut butter more or less. Once it’s mixed, it starts curing immediately, and you only have a limited amount of time to work with it as you discovered. It doesn’t dry, it’s like concrete, so it cures; putting a top on the container will nothing. Looks like you did a fine job on the taping and the mudding of the taping. The object at this point is to cover the joints and cover the tape and keep it all reasonably smooth. When you install the tile, you will need to put a full coat of mud on the wall, and the imperfections will disappear..
I don’t know what tile you have chosen for the walls there, but there are several different kinds of thin set. Some are designed for regular tile, the old school 4 x 4”. But if you are working with large format tile, they have thin set design for large format tile. They also have white thin set if you’re working with a whitish tile or marble. I believe they also have some others. Choose the thin set based on the tile you’re setting.
I have attached two photos here of a similar bathroom renovation I did in 2020. In this case, I removed the tub and replaced it with a shower base. Shown is the back wall all mudded up, and then later when it’s been tiled, but before grouting.

 

[Zanne]

You are supposed to mix that thinset to the consistency of peanut butter more or less. Once it’s mixed, it starts curing immediately, and you only have a limited amount of time to work with it as you discovered. It doesn’t dry, it’s like concrete, so it cures; putting a top on the container will nothing. Looks like you did a fine job on the taping and the mudding of the taping. The object at this point is to cover the joints and cover the tape and keep it all reasonably smooth. When you install the tile, you will need to put a full coat of mud on the wall, and the imperfections will disappear..
I don’t know what tile you have chosen for the walls there, but there are several different kinds of thin set. Some are designed for regular tile, the old school 4 x 4”. But if you are working with large format tile, they have thin set design for large format tile. They also have white thin set if you’re working with a whitish tile or marble. I believe they also have some others. Choose the thin set based on the tile you’re setting.
I have attached two photos here of a similar bathroom renovation I did in 2020. In this case, I removed the tub and replaced it with a shower base. Shown is the back wall all mudded up, and then later when it’s been tiled, but before grouting.

Thanks. I tried to get peanutbutter consistency but first try was a bit too thick/dry and almost crumbly. I mixed it as thoroughly as I could with mixing attachment. I think it got a little too thin when I added a tad more water so that may have been part of the issue. For awhile it was peanutbutter consistency but then got harder.

I know concrete heats up when it cures so perhaps the water being lukewarm from sitting in the room helped it cure faster. I'll refrigerate some water for next time though. I'll also try to be quicker about getting stuff on the wall.

No tile. I'm putting a glue-up surround on. I just wanted to seal up all the corners & seams and screw holes and cracks & whatever for stabilizing. Didn't have the right adhesive for the L-bead trim so needed to mud it to try to smooth it out. Also, despite my efforts to try to get the walls as square as I could, it's still not quite there and I want to make it square at least at the part where the corner grab bar shelf will go.

I've got other things to do today and am getting more tools to try to make this easier for next time. Hoping to be able to work on it some today if I have time.

 

[frontporch]

I have put glue up surrounds on waterproof drywall and didn’t make the extra effort to put up cement board or even tape the drywall. If considered the surround to be waterproof by itself

Can you dry fit the surround?

I have not had issues like yours with thin set. Maybe the cement board was drawing moisture out while you were working. Had a similar experience with sanded grout and worked excessively to push grout that was probably a little too dry into the tile joints. No fun

 

[Zanne]

I dry fit the surround before. I want to finish mudding over the trim and tape and then see if I need to build up any to get the left panel of the surround square so the grab bar will fit.
I have photos of the surround dry fit in on a previous page of this thread.

I was going to do more "mudding" today but I was dropping everything, tripping, & its too hot. I know when I have an off coordination day it would not be good to try to mess with stuff. Maybe later tonight or tomorrow morning before it warms up. I also hurt my back lifting cases of water. I'm chilling some water in the fridge to use for the next batch of mortar. I'm hoping that will give more working time.

The cementboard sucking out moisture certainly is a possibility.

 

[Zanne]

Probably the messiest cement board mortar job in the world, but its done. Not perfect-- not even close-- but all of the tape is covered. Seams are covered, etc. Hope it is solid once it dries.