Do I need to pull my well pump???

[samched]

A little background: at my house, I have a submersible pump (no clue how old it is) that I suspect the check valve is shot. Several months ago I noticed my pressure tank short cycling (pump up to 60psi, and drop to 40 psi in about 20 seconds). The tank seemed fine and not water logged. I did not have a check valve at the tank tee. All this lead me to believe the check valve in the submersible was shot. As a temporary fix, I replaced the pressure tank and well tee (they were pretty old so figured I'd just replace while I was at it) and installed a new check valve at the well tee. My thought being the well tee check valve would at least temporarily serve the same role as the 'failed' check valve down in my pump and sustain my pressure. It worked; no more short cycling.

Despite seeming to have fixed the problem, my concern now is that even with a working check valve at the well tee, the water would still slowly work back down the pipe and into the well, introducing air in the pipe which would then push into the rest of the system. I've since noticed some indication of this at my bathroom faucet and showerhead, as SOMETIMES they sputter with air pockets blowing out when I first turn them on (never did this before). Also, I am noticing A LOT more bubbles in my water when filling up a glass compared to before these issues.

So, at this point in my limited plumbing knowledge, it seems I can confidently say the pump check valve is shot, and I should PROBABLY pull my pump and replace in the near future. Would you all agree? If I am correct and there is air in the system, does it really hurt anything? Maybe I can ride it out till my pump stops working entirely? I do have an acid neutralizer tank, could air in the system harm it at all?

Current system:


Thanks in advance

 

[sarg]

I agree ....... I had the same symptoms you describe.
The experts on this forum ( & others ) advised there should only be one check valve at the pump.
I replaced the pump and everything else in my system.
I also replaced the above ground check valve with a CSV.

 

[Valveman]

Yes, the check valve on the pump has failed and needs to be replaced. You are lucky that there is air coming out the faucets. If there was no leak down the well, the failed check valve would cause a vacuum that makes a load and damaging water hammer on pump start. You either get air or water hammer on pump start when adding a check valve at the tank. The only check valve that should be in a pump system is the one down the well on the pump.

If you figure out and fix the problem that caused the check valve to fail, it will also solve many other problems that you don't even realize you have. Cycling on and off is what destroys check valves, pressure switches, tank bladders, and most expensively destroys pumps as well. After replacing the check valve in the well, removing the check at the tank and replacing it with a Cycle Stop Valve will make the check valve and everything else in the pump system last longer. Then as a beneficial side effect you will also have strong constant 45 PSI pressure in the house/showers instead of seeing/feeling the pressure go up and down from 30 to 50 as it is now.

Your 20 gallons size pressure tank only holds 5 gallons of water, which makes the pump cycle on and off for every 5 gallons used. Adding a larger or extra pressure tank will reduce the cycling somewhat. Adding a Cycle Stop Valve will stop the cycling, making everything last longer, and the pressure in the house much better.

The 20 gallon size tank is not large enough to protect your pump. But if you add a Cycle Stop Valve that size tank is actually about 4 times larger than it really needs to be, but will still work fine.

 

[Valveman]

Looks like Sarg beat me to it.

 

[samched]

Man I am glad I asked you guys. Thank you so much for the info. I will definitely be installing a CSV and removing the check at the tank.

Next obstacle is pulling my pump, which is conveniently in a crawl space and has a super rusted well seal that is proving very difficult to remove (new thread to come). Always something!

 

[Valveman]

Man I am glad I asked you guys. Thank you so much for the info. I will definitely be installing a CSV and removing the check at the tank.

Next obstacle is pulling my pump, which is conveniently in a crawl space and has a super rusted well seal that is proving very difficult to remove (new thread to come). Always something!

Just loosen the nuts on the well seal. DO NOT REMOVE THE NUTS COMPLETELY! The bolts will fall in the well.

 

[RS]

We had a similar problem many years ago, and it wasn't the check valve at the pump! The hose adapter that was screwed into the outside of the pitless adapter had cracked, because the ground had settled over time. It was evident, as I could hear a hissing sound at the top of the casing after the pump shut off. If you think your check valve has failed, then where is the air getting into the system? It shouldn't! Ours was an easy fix, but involved some digging, as it was 7 feet down to the pitless adapter.

 

[samched]

Thanks RS for the insight and everyone else again for the input. Valveman, I just posted a new thread about pulling the pump - figured would get more attention and maybe help others rather than being buried here.