Would these changes help water pressure?

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I have new shower heads on order for the remodel bathroom. are you referring to the screens or is there something else I should remove. I certainly would remove them. I ran 3/4-in plumbing all the way to the second story and up to the valves to try and maximize flow. not sure if it will have an impact or not.
 
I have new shower heads on order for the remodel bathroom. are you referring to the screens or is there something else I should remove. I certainly would remove them. I ran 3/4-in plumbing all the way to the second story and up to the valves to try and maximize flow. not sure if it will have an impact or not.
What brand shower valves did you install ?

There is typically a flow restrictor that’s separate from a screen.

If you remove the screens and trash gets into the head, it can ruin it forever. I don’t recommend removing the screen for that reason.
 
What brand shower valves did you install ?

There is typically a flow restrictor that’s separate from a screen.

If you remove the screens and trash gets into the head, it can ruin it forever. I don’t recommend removing the screen for that reason.
Meon.
 
I think I’d remove that spring check valve at the tank and recheck. That might be your whole problem.
 
Pressure on the house is okay, but not great. i lived with city water growing up. could have spoiled me.
It is your water system. You can have as much pressure as you want. You just have to make it happen. The constant pressure from a Cycle Stop Valve can be much better than city water pressure, it is not just mirroring city pressure. I don't think you need 90 PSI, but you could have that or more if you want. A 60/80 switch with a constant 75 PSI from a CSV should even eliminate the need for soap in the shower. Lol!

I use 50/70 with 60 PSI constant from my CSV and it almost peels my skin off in the shower.
 
It is your water system. You can have as much pressure as you want. You just have to make it happen. The constant pressure from a Cycle Stop Valve can be much better than city water pressure, it is not just mirroring city pressure. I don't think you need 90 PSI, but you could have that or more if you want. A 60/80 switch with a constant 75 PSI from a CSV should even eliminate the need for soap in the shower. Lol!

I use 50/70 with 60 PSI constant from my CSV and it almost peels my skin off in the shower.
Thank you . I'm thinking the first change is to a 50/70, up from the 40/60 I have now. I would need to increase the air pressure in the holding tank I believe when I change the pressure switch.

If not satisfied, then add the CSV. Interesting opinions on the CSV, but even if it is unhealthy for the well pump Is be trading off pressure for some expense.
 
even if it is unhealthy for the well pump
On the contrary, starting and stopping a pump with a pressure switch is what is "unhealthy" for any pump, or for any electric motor for that matter. Repeated inrush current on a motor can cause the motor windings to overheat. There are actually many motor installations that have instrumentation preventing the repeated starting of a motor over a certain short period of time.

You may say that my well pump is surrounded by water, and that the motor controls were designed to cycle the pump based on pressure and not time, But that is definitely not the best way to operate equipment.

Valveman has extensive experience with well pumps and talks about today's pumps being designed for a limited life. I'm not a conspiracy theorist, but there is some real truth in that approach to today's manufacturing designs for just about everything.

I purchased an Imperial in 1990 when Chrysler started making them again. During one of the regular inspections, they said I need to replace the wheel bearings as they had excessive play. They were not making noise, they were not overheating, and the bearings were not damaged they told me. So, I wondered why they just didn't repack the bearings and tighten the spindle nut to specifications. They couldn't do that because the assembly had a nylon washer that was designed to flatten during operation. That allowed the bearings to become loose and require replacement. I was going to replace that nylon washer with a brass wash, but never got around to it. Then the ABS system went out leaving me with basically no brakes. The 1990 Imperial had a "new" ABS system that was only used for that model year. The fix was over $4,000. I went to the junk yard, pulled a standard brake system off a Chrysler New Yorker, and replaced the ABS system with a standard braking system.

So just because I'm not a conspiracy theorist doesn't mean that I don't believe that manufacturers are not indeed producing goods that have a definite lifespan inherent in their designs.
 
even if it is unhealthy for the well pump.
Just the opposite is true. The CSV makes pumps/motors last much longer than normal. The propaganda that says a CSV is "unhealthy" for a pump is put out by those who want you to purchase a new pump every 5-7 years instead of every 30-40 years. I was never a conspiracy theorists before. But having accidentally come up with the cure for pump cancer I have certainly been the target of many misinformation campaigns. I have learned that efficiency and longevity are a negative to manufacturers. Planned obsolescence is the primary goal. Manufacturers will exaggerate performance and/or outright lie about efficiency to get people to purchase their most profitable items. Over the last 30 years I have learned to distrust everything.

There is always a "nylon washer" in there to shorten the life of seemingly well built equipment. Lol!

As long as your pump fits the criteria for using a Cycle Stop Valve, there are no negatives, only positive reasons for using one.
 
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