Sprinkler system off but water keeps going

[costamesa]

I have a single-zone sprinkler system that keeps watering even if the system is off or unplugged. The only way the water stops is if the water is manually shut off. Anytime the handle is in the on position, the water at the sprinklers will run.

I've tried:

1. Bleeding the Rain Bird unit
2. Removing and cleaning components
3. Replacing with authentic Rain Bird diaphragm
4. Replacing the Rain Bird Solenoid
5. Reset Hunter X-Core unit and reprogrammed

I'm not sure what else I could do. Has anyone come across these issues and found a fix?

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.

 

[Twowaxhack]

If it runs with the power disconnected then it’s your irrigation control valve that’s bad.

Replace the entire solenoid valve.

If there’s power to the valve 24/7 then it’s the controller.

 

[costamesa]

Thank you, Twowaxhack.

 

[Paul Capozzoli]

Bad solenoid or ..... what I have seen (30 yrs in the biz) is that dirt/crap gets lodged in the bowl where the solenoid plunger drops in to close the flow. If you have a valve that is serviceable (like a Hunter) you can unbolt the upper valve body and try cleaning it out. If there is debris in there a new solenoid won't resolve your issue.

All the best, Capwater.

 

[costamesa]

Hi Paul,

Thanks for the reply.
In your opinion, could I remove the housing of the unit and have the water running to see if that will flush anything out?
This is on a Rain Bird unit. by the way.

Thank you,

 

[Paul Capozzoli]

Some diagnostic steps I would perform.

Step 1. Unscrew the solenoid from the valve body. Turn on that zone. Does the solenoid activate? If not, replace. If so, re-install and try step 2.
Step 2. Remove upper valve body (where the solenoid is attached). Some are "jar top" which unscrews like well a jar top. Some have 4 bolts. I have seen all manner of crap in there from pipe cuttings, to trash and even a gutter screw. You want to clean that out and not just flush it downstream as it would likely clog a head (no biggie to pop out the nozzle).
Step 3. Replace the valve. If you can get an exact match, you won't have to mess with cutting and splicing pipe, just replace the upper portion.

Capwater Irrigation - "Keeping You Wet When It's Hot" since 1993.

 

[havasu]

Thanks for your input Paul. What we have around California normally is the 8 bolt screw top "Orbit" brands. When these Orbits begin to leak from the vacuum breaker, would replacement of the plastic plunger alone work, or would you recommend full replacement?

 

[Twowaxhack]

I would unplug the controller from all power sources. If the valve didn’t close then I would replace the valve.

Simple.

 

[Paul Capozzoli]

Assuming you have something like the picture I have attached, it is easier to replace the entire unit as it's not feasible to service them aside from the solenoid.. They are less than $20. These are above grade units as opposed to inline underground valves that are used in conjunction with a separate PVB or RPZ vacuum breaker unit. Cut one side and unscrew the other. Add in a 1" slip coupler and you are good to go. Don't forget to redo the teflon tape on the male threads.

 

[havasu]

I need to find those quick release unions, because it is a PITA to cut off and replace the units, especially on a concrete slab, with only 1" of exposed PVC. Yeah, not my design, and was from a previous owner's brainless thoughts.

 

[Paul Capozzoli]

Is your PVB unit 12" above your highest head? If not, that is likely a code violation and could allow ground water to contaminate your water supply. Put in a slip coupler and extend the pipe up a few more inches if for no other reason than to make future maintenance easier.

 

[havasu]

Good point. This will be a cold weather project, so I've got a few months until I replace this junk.

 

[costamesa]

Some diagnostic steps I would perform.

Step 1. Unscrew the solenoid from the valve body. Turn on that zone. Does the solenoid activate? If not, replace. If so, re-install and try step 2.
Step 2. Remove upper valve body (where the solenoid is attached). Some are "jar top" which unscrews like well a jar top. Some have 4 bolts. I have seen all manner of crap in there from pipe cuttings, to trash and even a gutter screw. You want to clean that out and not just flush it downstream as it would likely clog a head (no biggie to pop out the nozzle).
Step 3. Replace the valve. If you can get an exact match, you won't have to mess with cutting and splicing pipe, just replace the upper portion.

Capwater Irrigation - "Keeping You Wet When It's Hot" since 1993.

Thank you, Paul!

I'll give it one more go and see if I can replace the entire unit without cutting any piping. I have a Rain Bird Anti-Siphon pictured below.

 

[costamesa]

Are there missing components? I see some water in there, I think that is normal? So if I flush the system like this and it still doesn't work and I've replaced the solenoid then this valve is just dead and just needs to be replaced?

 

[costamesa]

There is a delay when I switch to system off. Would that indicate the unit is no longer any good?

 

[costamesa]

It's off but still showed on

 

[costamesa]

Anyone know what these levers do?
This is in a box underground in front of the house.

 

[Twowaxhack]

Stop valve to turn the water off.

 

[costamesa]

Stop valve to turn the water off.

One is at the front of the circle thing and the other in the back. Is one of them for the main house water and the other for the back? I wasn't sure how to pull them or turn them to make it work.

 

[havasu]

If the valve handle aligns with the direction of the pipe, it is on. The one before the meter you need to leave alone, since it belongs to the water company. At least this is how it works in my city.