Soldering copper pipe in tight location- Help Needed Pics included

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Well the drip didn't stop after 30 minutes, so I'm guessing the drip is permanent till I can fix it. I even put in a new washer and it still drips. The only thing I can think of is maybe solder got in too far and is obstructing where the washer is seated. I'm thinking of shining a flashlight in there to try and see if I can see solder on the seat, but even if I do find solder there I don't know how to remove it... I am definitely not up for redoing the entire sillcock so I don't want to cut it out.
 
I'm no expert, but are you sure you can't use sharkbite fittings for this application? I use them in my home, but they are in the basement, with easy access, not behind a finished wall. This is from their website, so take it with a grain of salt, but this would be way easier:

Certifications:
SharkBite® push-fit fittings have been design certified and listed to ASSE 1061/NSF 61. SharkBite push-fit fittings are listed by IAPMO and are certified for potable and hydronic heating water distribution (note: Glycol mixture for hydronics is not to exceed 100% concentration). The SharkBite push-fit fittings have been certified for underground applications and as a manufactured joint without access panels and they meet UPC, IPC and cUPC requirements. Please consult with local plumbing codes concerning specific applications.

Features and Benefits:

  • Instant Push-Fit connection for increased ease-of-use.
  • No soldering, clamps, unions, or glue required.
  • Fittings certified to 200 PSI and 200°F (93°C).
  • Fits copper tubing, and CTS CPVC and PEX and connects all three types in any combination.
  • Integral tube liner for PEX installations, so
  • no loose components, ensures secure, reliable connection.
  • Design certified and agency listed.
  • Compact, robust DZR brass body. Foundation of a strong, corrosion resistant, durable fitting.
  • Design certified to ANSI/NSF-61 and ASSE 1061 product standard for use in potable water and hydronic heating water distribution.
  • Approved to be used underground and behind walls without access panels.
  • Designed for hydronic heating as well as potable water distribution.
 
Shark bites are good for DIY but in a tight space that will be drywalled over I wouldn't suggest it. They have been known to leak over time. On any shark bites I have bought it says only use in an accessible location right on the tag. But they are super easy to use. I use them when I can't get enough water out of the pipe to solder.
 
Yeah, I wasn't very comfortable with using a shark bite inside a wall so I decided against it. I'm sure they can last a long time if done properly, but I wanted peace of mind knowing a soldered connection would last longer if done properly. I am sure I will use a shark bite one day, but I want it to be in an accessible location.

If I did get solder on the seat, I guess it's going to have to stay there, ha. I am not redoing this sillcock, it only drips about once every 15 seconds outside my house, which for now, I'm okay with. I'm sure next year I may look at redoing it.
 
If it's left dripping be sure to turn it off with the valve inside before cold weather or it will freeze. Plus with solder on the seat the washer won't last long. I really hate telling you all this but you should be aware of what to expect.

John
 
Don't worry John, I appreciate the advice, even if it bares bad news. But I don't really even know if solder is on the seat, it is just a guess at the moment, so the seat may actually be okay. I will have to inspect it with a light or something later. The sillcock is at my parents' home actually, I was replacing it for them, so I just called them and they said it isn't leaking from what they can tell. So maybe it fixed itself, or maybe they just weren't really looking hard enough. I plan on shutting it off in the winter to be safe as well, especially if it is dripping at that time. I'll go see them in a few more days for dinner, and then I'll check it again to see how it is holding up.
 

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