Shower head thread type?

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pasadena_commut

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What is the technical designation for the thread configuration on the female connector on a shower head?

I have been dragging the male end of a long garden hose into the hose when I need to spray into the T&P hole on the water heater to dislodge the sediment, and it is not very convenient. It just crossed my mind that the shower head is only about 25-30 ft away from the T&P hole (path down the hall, using a straight line it is only 4 ft., but I'm not going to punch a hole in the shower wall so that it could pass), so I could hook up a short hose there, through some sort of adapter, and then the other end of that to the PEX sprayer for the tank.
 
Isn't the standard procedure:

Step 1- Turn the water hater off (breaker for electric) turn valve to 'Pilot' for gas heater
Step 2- close both valves near water heater
Step 3- Connect hose to drain valve, open valve to drain tank
Step 4- After tank drains, open cold water supply valve, leave drain valve open- the turbulence will stir up sediment. Watch the water coming out of heater and when it's clear, close the supply valve and let it drain again, then repeat (open the cold water supply valve, to stir up the sediment).
Step 5- once the water runs clear from drain valve, close it, open the hot water valve and turn heater ON.
Step 6- after water heater has filled, remove the aerator and open the valves on the closest faucet (laundry sink is a good choice) to allow any sediment in the tank and pipes to evacuate.
 
If you have the water heater disabled, will you still have water at the shower? You wouldn't at our house! Most shower pipes are 1/2 npt.
 
Nothing wrong with the T&P valve.

I have found that the only way to get all of the sediment out of this gas heater is to spray water in from the top from locations other than the cold water inlet. Otherwise flushing cleans out well between the cold water inlet and the drain valve (replaced with a brass outlet with a ball valve for better flow), but leaves a sandbar on the other side of the flue from that. The most effective place to spray is probably at the anode hole, but taking out the anode is a PITA since the hoses and flue are in the way, plus I have to use an impact driver to take it out. Washing from the T&P doesn't work quite as well, but it is much much easier to remove that valve. If I were to pull the inlet dip tube and replace it with one which was curved at the end then the flushes might be able to clean out the whole tank. But I don't think that can be done in situ, as there are a ceiling, walls, and a door frame close by that limit the available work space. As it is, the replacement anode had to be cut a couple of inches shorter or it could not be maneuvered into place - and it is straight.

Thanks for the shower pipe size info.
 

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