Should we replace the gas line while replacing the water heater?

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Maken

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I am going to have my 20-year old natural gas 50 gallon water heater replaced which is working fine but it seems to be nearing its end of life. Do I need to have the 1/2" CSST gas line (which is about 8' in length and is also over 20 years old) replaced while replacing the water heater? Or, is it okay to reuse the existing CSST gas line? Also, do you recommend to have an expansion tank installed? We didn't have one previously. Thanks!
 
20 years on an existing gas line. I myself would also replace it, so hopefully you'll get another 20 years without issues.

I know when I get new appliances delivered here, they will not install them unless they also include new gas lines. Upsell? Maybe. But it is better to be safe than sorry.
 
The necessity of an Expansion tank is determined if you're on a well or municipal water.
If a well ..... the water pressure tank would absorb created pressure from the water heater.
If municipal and a "closed" system i.e. one with a check valve you should have an expansion tank in the system.
 
Thermal expansion must be controlled according to your local codes. I’ll leave it at that. We could go off the rails with that one.

I do not care for CSST gas lines but I do use flex connectors at some appliances. I would have to see the line in person to say if I’d replace it or not. I might would want to know who installed it. I might would take it apart and inspect it.
 
I NEVER use CSST for a water heater. The only reason to use CSST is for a quicker (i.e., cheaper) installation, or when the connecting appliance has to move, like a gas dryer or a gas stove for maintenance or installation.

And as havasu said, and as some manufactures and utility companies as well say, flexible gas lines should not be reused, especially ones that are 20 years old.

I would have it hard piped, or at the very least get a new CSST. But an 8-foot CSST is pretty long for a stationary unit even if the installer was trying to save time on the installation.
 
I agree that hard piping 6 feet would be ideal, then a shut off, a dip tube, then the flexible CSST to the water heater..
 

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About the dip tube or drip leg: I am fully aware that many codes require the installation of a drip leg in the gas line to a water heater or furnace. What do you tell the home owner if he asks you how often the drip leg has to be emptied out, every year, 5 years, 10 years? Is the home owner allowed to do this himself, or does he need a plumber to come and do it?
I have never heard of anybody ever emptying a drip leg; so, if that is the case, why do we still require drip legs? Is it because of the famous "we always did it that way way" or because it has been carried over from codes first issued before the second World War when gas wasn't as clean and as dry as it is today? And why does it have to be a minimum of 3" long?
 
About the dip tube or drip leg: I am fully aware that many codes require the installation of a drip leg in the gas line to a water heater or furnace. What do you tell the home owner if he asks you how often the drip leg has to be emptied out, every year, 5 years, 10 years? Is the home owner allowed to do this himself, or does he need a plumber to come and do it?
I have never heard of anybody ever emptying a drip leg; so, if that is the case, why do we still require drip legs? Is it because of the famous "we always did it that way way" or because it has been carried over from codes first issued before the second World War when gas wasn't as clean and as dry as it is today? And why does it have to be a minimum of 3" long?
They are to deal with impurities and debris in the gas/piping itself.

Low pressure lines will allow water to enter. Higher pressure will not.
 
About the dip tube or drip leg: I am fully aware that many codes require the installation of a drip leg in the gas line to a water heater or furnace. What do you tell the home owner if he asks you how often the drip leg has to be emptied out, every year, 5 years, 10 years? Is the home owner allowed to do this himself, or does he need a plumber to come and do it?
I have never heard of anybody ever emptying a drip leg; so, if that is the case, why do we still require drip legs? Is it because of the famous "we always did it that way way" or because it has been carried over from codes first issued before the second World War when gas wasn't as clean and as dry as it is today? And why does it have to be a minimum of 3" long?
You NEVER have to empty the drip leg. It is true that our natural gas today is much cleaner than it was 100 years ago, but there are still some old gas lines in service, as well as maintenance on any gas lines can introduce particles that are large enough to cause issues in a gas jet. But they will never accumulate to the point of having to empty the drip leg.
 
TW, you are correct on the CSST, but even looking at the connectors available, they are still corrigated, still stainless steel, flexible connectors, many with flared ends. This is why the confusion on the flexible tubing. I too was referring to the connectors, which some are non-painted stainless steel, some are yellow and some are black painted (for fireplace inserts).
 
How often do you have to empty out the impurities and the debris?
Sometimes there is stuff in the drip. I don’t ever take them apart unless there a problem.

I have found low pressure outside yard lines full of water. The customer calls to report the appliance is not operating. I come and take the gas line at the appliance apart and hear gurgling or bubbles……or nothing.

Connect air compressor and blow the line out. Then you get gas. Then you find the underground leak.
 
TW, you are correct on the CSST, but even looking at the connectors available, they are still corrigated, still stainless steel, flexible connectors, many with flared ends. This is why the confusion on the flexible tubing. I too was referring to the connectors, which some are non-painted stainless steel, some are yellow and some are black painted (for fireplace inserts).

I typically replace flex connectors when I replace an appliance. Not always though.
 
Here’s one I replaced last month. Lightning hit the house. It almost blew a hole in this flex line.

I replaced it along with the cooktop.

I took the cooktop home and repaired it, I’m going to put it in an outdoor kitchen.

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When my house burned down 3 yrs ago, the claims adjuster first asked what time we got hit with lightning. The second question was if we had csst in the house. I asked why and he said if we did, they would sue the mfg. of the csst.
 
You can sue anyone for anything. CSST is susceptible to lightning more so than sch 40 steel. But copper is also very susceptible to lightning, good luck trying to sue the copper industry.

CSST has to be grounded and there are other rules. One brand is called counterstrike and it’s coated with plastic.

I don’t keep up with it because I don’t use the stuff but it is sold and being used.
 
You can sue anyone for anything. CSST is susceptible to lightning more so than sch 40 steel. But copper is also very susceptible to lightning, good luck trying to sue the copper industry.

CSST has to be grounded and there are other rules. One brand is called counterstrike and it’s coated with plastic.

I don’t keep up with it because I don’t use the stuff but it is sold and being used.
Funny thing about the grounding. If mine hadn't been grounded, it might not have jumped to it.
 
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