Roughing in toilets

Discussion in 'Toilets and Sinks' started by branimal, Dec 13, 2018.

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  1. Dec 13, 2018 #1

    branimal

    branimal

    branimal

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    I’ve got to rough in two toilets for side by side bathrooms.

    Do I need to use closet bends? Seems like the closet bends would make my life easier. I think they are called long quarter bends in charlottes cast iron product literature. See pic.

    I was messing around with some spare fittings and setup a run with a couple elbows and a wye. See pic. But it seems the closet bends would be better suited for the job. Wider turn radius.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Dec 13, 2018 #2

    frodo

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    nope

    aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa11111111111111.jpg
     
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  3. Dec 13, 2018 #3

    frodo

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    use a 4x3 closet 90. 4'' stubbed up through the concrete, then use a 4x3 pvc closet flange glued to the inside of the 4'' pipe, cut off flush with the floor


    the fitting you are showing is a no hub cast iron 4x8x4x4 closet bend

    closet_90.png
     
    Last edited: Dec 13, 2018
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  4. Dec 13, 2018 #4

    branimal

    branimal

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    Thanks frodo.

    My install is all 4” no-hub cast iron. Is the fitting on the wall the closet bend attaches to a sanitary tee? Pink arrows.

    Also is it possible to not vent at the sanitary tees if the soil/vent stack (dry) is 110” of the furtherest toilet? I’ve read that a vent must be 12’ from a 4” trap. I’m assuming the toilet has a 4” trap. Or would my system be more efficient as you’ve designed it.

    Here’s what i’m thinking. See 2nd pic.

    Should horizontal toilet drain lines run 1/8” or 1/4” slope? Or is somewhere in between ideal?

    IMG_3773.JPG IMG_3775.JPG
     
  5. Dec 13, 2018 #5

    frodo

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  6. Dec 13, 2018 #6

    branimal

    branimal

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    I’m going to use your original design. Clean and elegant.

    Do you suggest using 2 1/8 bends at the green arrow?

    IMG_3777.JPG
     
  7. Dec 13, 2018 #7

    frodo

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    If you have the depth, the longer the sweep the better
     
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  8. Dec 20, 2018 #8

    branimal

    branimal

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    Got around to running the Toilet pipes. Going to install 2” pvc to tie into the vent system as per your diagram.

    Will install some pipe hangers to give additional support.

    Thanks

    IMG_3851.JPG IMG_3852.JPG
     
  9. Dec 21, 2018 #9

    frodo

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  10. Dec 21, 2018 #10

    Shoestring

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    I’ve started using reducing bands on my last couple of cast iron projects. I got jammed up by an inspector for using a cast by cast reducing band for a cast by plastic application. 99.9% of my bands were correct but one day I ran out and just grabbed what the supplier had in stock. I was under test with no leaks but he still called me on it. This may sound trivial but it’s good practice to orient your bands so the hex heads are looking at you. I always buy my guys brand new seekonk torque wrenches at the beginning of the job but it never fails that someone will dig out an old Pasco or raptor brand torque wrench that under torques the band. It sure is nice when you have to go back and retorque the bands and not have to be a contortionist to do it.

    Digging on that old skool construction. How old is the building?
     
  11. Dec 21, 2018 #11

    branimal

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    Roughing in rest of bathroom

    I’m roughing in the rest of the fixtures for the back to back bathrooms.

    Here’s my plan. All 2” cast iron. I have a double sanitary tee installed on my soil stack to accommodate the bathtub that’s to the left of the soil stack. The kitchen drain is being run from the other side of the building. It will be vented at the sink location. That’s why my diagram has the kitchen drain wye-ing into the 2” drain line with no vent connection.

    The vents will connect to the 2” vent line I’m running for the toilets.

    And I just realized I could have used my 4” drain line for the toilets along with 4x2 wye’s to tie in these kitchen fixtures.. Definitely will do that next time. But for this iteration I have the space to install a 2” drain line.

    IMG_3870.JPG
     
  12. Dec 22, 2018 #12

    frodo

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    pppplumbing.JPG 6.5x552.JPG
     
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  13. Dec 22, 2018 #13

    frodo

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    using a cross for tub an washer would be a mistake
    you do not want the washer draining close to the tub. because of suds bubbling up in the tub
     
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  14. Dec 22, 2018 #14

    branimal

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    Frodo,

    Good tip on the soap bubbling up in my tub if I use a cross.

    I'm going to use your plumbing design but I may need to make one adjustment. I don't think I have room to put another fitting onto my soil stack. I believe your diagram has me adding a 4" combo. I currently have a 4x2" santee on top of a 4" santee on the soil stack.

    The adjustment is to tie the lavatories, washing machine, shower and kitchen drain line into the existing 4" toilet pipe using 4x2 combinations. Is that an acceptable solution? See diagram. I also attached a pic of the space with fixture locations to show what I'm working with.

    Are combinations preferred fittings on the soil stack vs san-tees? The sweep on the combo more capable to move waste and water downwards.

    Thanks
     

    Attached Files:

  15. Dec 22, 2018 #15

    frodo

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    **** man. if that is what you are doing....do this
    make it easier.
    Untitled.png plumbingpppppppppppppppppppppppppii.JPG
     
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  16. Dec 23, 2018 #16

    branimal

    branimal

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    Thanks Frodo!

    @Shoestring good catch on the cast x cast reducing bands.

    In terms of torquing I’ve been using my ridgid impact driver and I finish off with a torque wrench. The Seekonks are not cheap - worth the money?

    The building is from 1920. It was hub cast iron plumbing which I’m replacing with no hub. Some Lead pipes to the soil stack. Lead pipe to the kitchen stack. Some really horrific PVC work when they added a second bathroom.
     
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  17. Dec 23, 2018 #17

    Shoestring

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    In my region, its the labor that will eat up my budget, tool are cheap as long as you don’t buy cheap tools.
     
  18. Dec 25, 2018 #18

    breplum

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    Up to three toilets combined can use a 3" drain line. There is absolutely no need for 4".
    Frodo, what program/app did you use for those sketches? Nice job!
     
  19. Dec 25, 2018 #19

    frodo

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    Thanks breplum, he is using 4'' and 2'' because that is what he has.

    the 5th grade drawing? i just used my mouse and windows paint
     
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  20. Dec 29, 2018 #20

    branimal

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    Frodo,
    Got it done. Thanks for the guidance.

    Water test held fine.

    A well known plumbing shop in Brooklyn was impressed with your knowledge of fittings. They had no idea what a 4x2 reducer fitting was until the boss came out and said he had them... "no one ever buys 'em". Another rarely used fitting was the 4x2 Combo.

    Here are some pics....I had to stuff all the holes with caps & plastic bags because here in NYC you'll get water bugs in your building. I'm temporarily using metal straps to hold everything.... I will replace with joist hangers and threaded rods.
     

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