Replacing Stop Valve Under Sink

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qosmioamit

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Hello folks

I have run in to some DIY trouble. I noticed today that the stop valves under my bathroom sink were leaking. They are straight valves with ½" crimped PEX. I want to replace the valve with a quarter turn ball valve. I was turning the nut to remove the PEX but ended up twisting the copper pipe.

What are my options? Do I need to replace the faucet now?

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From the looks of it you're going to replace the faucet as well. Always use two wrenches.
 
if you did not break the solder joint'

pull the faucet. completly remove faucet from cabinet USE 2 WRENCHS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

gently, untwist the copper....GENTLY>>>>>

STOP>>>

get your brass shotgun cleaning rod, insert it into the tube. and wiggle it up into the tube

useing it to help bend the pipe, pull the rod out

you will be able to get water thru it. it is not round but square now
 
While I admire Frodos ambition to fix anything and everything, that faucet is beyond repair and the copper will likely split if you tried to reshape it. Use two wrenches next time.
 
Thanks, folks! I was really cramped underneath the sink since the sink was against a wall. But I will remember next time to use two wrenches.

Cheers!
 
Expensive lesson learned.

You should be able to repair the leaking stop valves by simply tightening the packing nuts located on the valve below the handles. AND USE TWO WRENCHES HERE TOO!
 
I tried tightening the packing nuts on the stop valves before I began anything. It did't work. I bought a new faucet and I called a plumber and they want $180 to come out. Do you think I have the tools to do the work myself? As you can see, I don't have much space to work.
I have done some basic plumbing work around the house like replacing the faucets in my kitchen and replacing Moen cartridges in my showers, etc. The kitchen was easy because I had lots of room to work.

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Not without a PEX crimping tool. Sometimes, if the stars align, and it is a full moon, you can purchase a new valve and replace just the guts. I've done it a few times and sure saved me lots of headaches.
 
There is no replacing the guts of that faucet, since the copper is twisted.

To do the job properly, either the stop valves need to be replaced with standard 1/2" crimp x 3/8" compression valves that will allow a regular supply tube to be used, or the PEX between the stop valves and the faucet needs to be cut and recoupled. Either way, you will need a PEX crimp tool.

$185 is a really reasonable price for that job.
 
Sorry, I just couldn't get myself to paying that much. I bought a valve that doesn't require the crimper. Check out the pictures. I tested the water lines and all is good!

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Push on fittings are ok now. But there where you screwed supply on. Take the Teflon off. The supply line has a rubber seat in there to seal after a quarter past hand tight. Teflon takes up space as it was invented for flueted threads. The Teflon taking up space here. Stops you from a proper seal. Maybe a little Vaseline to slick it up so it slides up and tightens exactly how the manufacture intended.
 
I put Teflon tape on both sides of the flex tube 3/8" and 1/2". On which side are you suggesting I remove the tape?
 
You don't need Teflon on either of those fittings.

Also, just a fair warning you have now set yourself up for a future flood. Those push fittings are garbage and one day will blow off, and that twisted copper is now so thin, it won't take too much to corrode through.

You got it working though. Good job.
 
You don't need Teflon on either of those fittings.

Also, just a fair warning you have now set yourself up for a future flood. Those push fittings are garbage and one day will blow off, and that twisted copper is now so thin, it won't take too much to corrode through.

You got it working though. Good job.

After reading the advice of buying a new faucet, I did exactly that. I bought a new Moen single handle faucet from Home Depot that cost me CA$ 80. That's why the water flow is so good. I am sorry, I should not have uploaded the picture of the bent copper the second time around. That led to confusion.

The copper tubing on the old faucet was bent beyond repair because after removing the faucet, I saw wear on the tubing.

The rep at Home Depot told me he has the push fit valves all over his house and it is next best solution after crimped PEX valves. He asked me to ensure that I cut the PEX pipe at 180 degree, to ensure the best connection with the valve. That's what I did.

It's been a couple days since I installed it, and I haven't spotted leaks yet. Time will tell...

The flex pipe is stainless steel, while the faucet tubing is copper, I applied the Teflon tape because stainless steel is a harder material than copper and it may eat the copper threading. I saw wear on the threading of the copper tubing on the bent faucet.
 
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You bought a good faucet. You will get many good years from it :)

You still don't need the Teflon though ;) just leave well enough alone and remember that for future projects.
 
Been using shark bite for 10 years now. Only problems I run into is "pipe must be as new with no scratches. Or operator error. I have learned to twist and turn with a small wobble and its sets every time.
 
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