Redo sweat connection?

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hdtvkeith

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2022
Messages
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Location
Atlanta, GA
Does this look bad? I am prebuilding my shower and diverter valve connections so I can I heated the bottom connection on the valve and added solder and as it melted on top I though I reached well around both sides, but clearly this back side does not look good. bottom. Do I trust that some wicked in or redo this. Not looking forward to redoing it as I am sure reassembly will be a pain, but don't want a leak either. I did use tinning flux.


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OK I pulled it off and re-did it. I probably did not have to as when I pulled it there appears there was decent solder coverage around entire pipe. Should have taken pic, but at that point I was committed to clean it up and redo it. My guess is the valve and pipe were so hot it wicked in enough solder. Not my most proud work, but it seems better now.


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This is the final assembly. Hopefully to minimize soldering around the Kerdi and then to make the switch over faster. I should be able to pull out all the old stiff and with 2 elbows and small pieces put this right back in place. Then I screw on some Pex fittings and I am back in business.

If I have any issue I have a set of Delta valves and trim ready to put in. Was trying to save some cost and reuse our existing Moen trim.
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I assume you used brush-on flux on the pipe and valve body and not simply acid core solder. In any event, I would have liked to see more solder flow up the pipe itself at the point of insertion indicative of enough heat. That being said, your sweat joints are probably fine.
 
I used tinning flux (since I don't solder that often and wanted the extra safety net) and while the rule is 1/2in solder for 1/2 fitting I am sure more than a 1/2in solder is there. All my other joints look 100% better, for some reason that one I must not have been paying attention as I usually like to see solder on the outside of the joint. deepest respects to people that do plumbing for a living. This re-pipe is turning out to probably be a little more than I bargained for. I am close, the shower gets done this week and then water gets cut over to the new piping.
 
I meant nothing negative and I do think your work will stand the test of time. Although I am not a plumber by any stretch of the imagination, I have soldered and welded for most of my life post pubescent life.
 
Oh I did not take it negative, I am harder on myself, driving wife crazy as I over think and engineer this re-pipe project. Whoever buys my house some day will appreciate how I this for easier future repairs. (I hope)
 
Lead free brass with 95/5 solder is not as forgiving as in the old days.

You must pay more attention to how the heat is applied. There’s a narrower temp range to get the solder to flow properly.

I have a plumber friend that has constant problems soldering lead free brass, he over or under heats it or doesn’t heat evenly. He also uses a cheap ass Home Depot torch
 
hdtvkeith said:
Oh I did not take it negative, I am harder on myself, driving wife crazy as I over think and engineer this re-pipe project. Whoever buys my house some day will appreciate how I this for easier future repairs. (I hope)
Click to expand...

I will testify that you put a lot of thought into it. 🤣
 
Thanks. I have been trying to do this well. I know a few areas did not come out as well as I wanted, but I have been following all the advice I get here and watching all the tutorial videos I can fine. Trying to adhere Tom Uponor’ a instructions. Heck every fitting other than shower valves and angle stops are Uponor. I went with Dahl 1/4 turn expansion angle stops. Prepping remaining ite,s today for potential d-day tomorrow row when i cut this all over. Hope to put up more pics this weekend.
 
Can't use 50-50 solder for potable water, just boilers. Were still aloud to use 95-5 but I never did like it. I have roll that's probably 20 years
old in my solder box. Mostly around here we use lead free solder. Flows nice. Just bought a roll a couple weeks ago and it was $30 some
dollars for a roll. TERRIBLE
 
TomFOhio said:
Lately???? I need some
Click to expand...
No Sir. Probably 3-4 yrs ago. I find good deals and then buy obscene amounts for a one man shop.

Private message me your mailing info snd I’ll send you some Teflon tape to try out. I’ll send you 4-5 rolls. Good thick stuff too, 3/4” wide.

Im not trying to sell you anything. I have a few cases of it and I don’t mind sharing.
 
TomFOhio said:
Can't use 50-50 solder for potable water, just boilers. Were still aloud to use 95-5 but I never did like it. I have roll that's probably 20 years
old in my solder box. Mostly around here we use lead free solder. Flows nice. Just bought a roll a couple weeks ago and it was $30 some
dollars for a roll. TERRIBLE
Click to expand...
What solder do you use if you don’t use 95-5 ? I realize there are different type but what do you prefer. I get the cheapest .......it’s all good to me. Way stronger than what was once used and the strength wasn’t why it was banned.
 
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