PEX repipe - Not happy with the look

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Mikieboyblue

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So, I have moved from DWV to the supply line repipe. I am trying to follow as many of the existing supply holes as possible. Of course there are weird angles and the PEX isn't a straight run but most will work. However the kitchen plumbing is on the 2x4 exterior wall and the space is tight. I really don't want to put more hole here as it is load bearing. That said, I am not happy with how this is coming out. Any ideas?

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I would’ve kept the blue pipe on top.

I dont use those brackets to come out of the wall with. They’re not needed.

Dont use fittings where you can bend the pipe a little. It’s not meant to use fittings to make it look pretty, that reduces your pressure.

Insert crimp fittings reduce your pipe ID but to compensate for this you’re instructed not to use fittings and to slowly roll the tube into position.

Make sense ?
 
I would’ve kept the blue pipe on top.

I dont use those brackets to come out of the wall with. They’re not needed.

Dont use fittings where you can bend the pipe a little. It’s not meant to use fittings to make it look pretty, that reduces your pressure.

Insert crimp fittings reduce your pipe ID but to compensate for this you’re instructed not to use fittings and to slowly roll the tube into position.

Make sense ?
Totally makes sense. Trying to use those long sweep 90s to help. It is a very short run. The white PEX on the far left in the corner is the 3/4 main cold headed to a storage unit where the wh is.

I think I am being a bit too cautious/delicate with the PEX. I didn't think I could make the bend out of the wall correctly without it either being up against the exterior wall covering and subject to freezing or too tight of a bend. I think I could certainly make the bend in the far left without fittings.

What do you use when coming out the wall?
 
I would’ve brought them out past that 2x4 about 3” into the cavity and then turned them out of the wall with 90’s about 4” apart. No support added.
 
I would’ve brought them out past that 2x4 about 3” into the cavity and then turned them out of the wall with 90’s about 4” apart. No support added.

The 90 fittings? Or the bend supports? When using that approach does the pipe push into the wall a little?

Part of my issue is that the drain is a little high (18") making the supply high (21"). Maybe I should drop below and bite the bullet putting in a few more 5/8 holes. That one 2x4 has been charred, gouged out pretty bad. I had to add the blocking so I could attach a very large nail plate (not seen in the photo).
 
4EE51DAD-32A5-4DDC-A088-220D49917D39.jpegI would’ve stubbed them both out here and 4” apart. Since they’re roughed in high you could 90 down then out at the top of the drain pipe. Insulate the wall.

No brackets. It’s ok if the pipe moves a little, it won’t move far because of the insulation and the hole in the drywall and cabinet holding it. Where would it go ?
 
View attachment 32029I would’ve stubbed them both out here and 4” apart. Since they’re roughed in high you could 90 down then out at the top of the drain pipe. Insulate the wall.

No brackets. It’s ok if the pipe moves a little, it won’t move far because of the insulation and the hole in the drywall and cabinet holding it. Where would it go ?
👍🏻
Nothing says I couldn't go below the drain, correct?
 
Are you putting your pipes for the kitchen in the outside wall. Not sure about your weather if it gets real cold any.
 
Are you putting your pipes for the kitchen in the outside wall. Not sure about your weather if it gets real cold any.
Yes, this is the outside wall (cement board, house wrap, half inch rigid foam, R-14 fiberglass in a 2*4 wall). I can't change this as it is how the house was designed originally and piped in copper. In one of the photos you can see a spot where there is missing foam board that I will fill with a new piece and tape all holes. I am in northern NC.
 
Yes, this is the outside wall (cement board, house wrap, half inch rigid foam, R-14 fiberglass in a 2*4 wall). I can't change this as it is how the house was designed originally and piped in copper. In one of the photos you can see a spot where there is missing foam board that I will fill with a new piece and tape all holes. I am in northern NC.
Sounds like you have the freezing problem under control.
 
Sounds like you have the freezing problem under control.

Yeah. About the only thing I could do is fir out the wall to a 2*6. The window would be oddly recessed but it would fit everything otherwise. Given it is a rental, probably not worth the time. I could also spray foam that wall before placing the fiberglass back and closing up as I have extra insulation spray foam.
 
I fixed this up a bit. A lot fewer fittings (-4 per branch). A few things to finish it up later after running the hot trunk and connecting the hot branch.

The hot PEX got a some scratches on you can feel but fr something in this dang wall, but not cut through. Any concern there?
 

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"Given it is a rental, probably not worth the time. I could also spray foam that wall before placing the fiberglass back and closing up as I have extra insulation spray foam. "

That would be a good place to use closed-cell foam spray insulation.
 
"Given it is a rental, probably not worth the time. I could also spray foam that wall before placing the fiberglass back and closing up as I have extra insulation spray foam. "

That would be a good place to use closed-cell foam spray insulation.

Yeah. That's the stuff I have and was the thought.
 
You having a single bowl sink with garbage disposal?

Great question. The plan is an undermount double sink basin with no disposal. I will be dropping an outlet in the cabinet. There was a steel surface mount double sink basin in the spot prior. Supply lines are basically in the exact same location as the copper was, a little lower (1-2"). Dishwasher located to the right in the photo. Cabinets to the left wrapping around the wall.
 
What’s the box in the wall for the toilets water supply for ?
 
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