Thundercat710
Member
Thanks, I'll look into that
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Newbie trying to replace AO Smith anode
- Thread starter Thundercat710
- Start date
Help Support Plumbing Forums:
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I think I’d just save my money and wait for it to die. That’s a personal decision and you may have a period of no hot water if it’s not a planned replacement before it fails.It's out in the garage so nothing would be damaged. Just trying to stay ahead of things and not have things die on me
Thundercat710
Member
Is it wiser to go tankless when this one dies, or just put a new tank in? Don't think this is our forever home, if that makes a difference
Where in relation to your gas meter is the water heater installed ?Is it wiser to go tankless when this one dies, or just put a new tank in? Don't think this is our forever home, if that makes a difference
I ask because most of the time in my area a gas line upgrade is required. Sometimes the gas line upgrade can cost as much as a new water heater installed of the tank type.
Thundercat710
Member
The gas meter is on the outside of the garage, like 10-15ft from the water heaterWhere in relation to your gas meter is the water heater installed ?
I ask because most of the time in my area a gas line upgrade is required. Sometimes the gas line upgrade can cost as much as a new water heater installed of the tank type.
That’s a good thing. You’d just have to weigh the pros and cons.The gas meter is on the outside of the garage, like 10-15ft from the water heater
A 40 gal tank costs about $650 right now. That’s just the tank, not installed.
A good tankless costs $1300 on up. Just for the heater, not installed or accessories.
I'd wait for it to go bad and then replace it with a new tank water heater.
Not that I know what I'm talking about (but proud to be the father of a plumber), my money is on the square drive seen in 2.jpg. It's in the same position as on the two water heaters I've fought removing the anode rod. Yes, usually a 1 1/16" socket is needed, at least in my vast experience. Doesn't a square drive makes sense, eliminating the need for the socket?
I’ve never seen a anode with a recessed square drive. Only plugs.Not that I know what I'm talking about (but proud to be the father of a plumber), my money is on the square drive seen in 2.jpg. It's in the same position as on the two water heaters I've fought removing the anode rod. Yes, usually a 1 1/16" socket is needed, at least in my vast experience. Doesn't a square drive makes sense, eliminating the need for the socket?
One sure way to find out is to call AO smith and give them the serial number and they’ll be able to say where the anode was when it left the factory, or they should be able to.
If you ever have taken an anode rod out it almost takes two people to hold the tank and one to try and bust
the thing loose. I'm with TW and never seen one like that before. I've take clean out plugs with the square
head and that's a bear trying to keep it in the square with a special tool. Let us know if that's it or not.
the thing loose. I'm with TW and never seen one like that before. I've take clean out plugs with the square
head and that's a bear trying to keep it in the square with a special tool. Let us know if that's it or not.
cliffyk
Well-Known Member
Did someone leave a 1/2" drive socket on top of the anode rod's hex head?
That's a possibility. If anyone of us were there we could probably tell.
No, that’s a recessed square head pipe plug. It’s common to see those.Did someone leave a 1/2" drive socket on top of the anode rod's hex head?
cliffyk
Well-Known Member
Per this A.O. Smith parts list (PDF 102 kB), that is the anode rod bung. my research indicates the clear/white plastic plug at the perimeter covers a hole through which foam insulation is injected during manufacturing.
it would seem someone removed the anode and plugged off the port (around here that is fairly common DIY practice, in "less sophisticated" circles (think Dixie's Trailer Park), to just yank the anode and plug it off when it starts to stink.
My observation of this practice is that an intact typical "builder quality" electric water heater will last 5 to 6 years with average maintenance (I.e. none)--but only 60 to 72 months with the anode removed.
So OP, Just yank the plug and screw in a new rod if you feel it needed.
it would seem someone removed the anode and plugged off the port (around here that is fairly common DIY practice, in "less sophisticated" circles (think Dixie's Trailer Park), to just yank the anode and plug it off when it starts to stink.
My observation of this practice is that an intact typical "builder quality" electric water heater will last 5 to 6 years with average maintenance (I.e. none)--but only 60 to 72 months with the anode removed.
So OP, Just yank the plug and screw in a new rod if you feel it needed.
5-6 years is 60 to 72 months. Not sure what you’re trying to say here.My observation of this practice is that an intact typical "builder quality" electric water heater will last 5 to 6 years with average maintenance (I.e. none)--but only 60 to 72 months with the anode removed.
I think he is saying it is 6 of one and half a dozen of the other.5-6 years is 60 to 72 months. Not sure what you’re trying to say here.
In other words, "builder quality" electric water heaters have other issues of quality that make the presence of an anode mute.
I’d say he’s wrong then. Tanks with anodes are going to last longer on average than tanks without in normal operating water systems.I think he is saying it is 6 of one and half a dozen of the other.
In other words, "builder quality" electric water heaters have other issues of quality that make the presence of an anode mute.
The tank itself yes, but apparently what he is saying is that the heating elements, thermostats, etc. in a "builder quality" electric water heater will fail well before the tank develops a leak even with the anode removed.I’d say he’s wrong then. Tanks with anodes are going to last longer on average than tanks without in normal operating water systems.
cliffyk
Well-Known Member
Bingo! But I think you meant "moot"I think he is saying it is 6 of one and half a dozen of the other.
In other words, "builder quality" electric water heaters have other issues of quality that make the presence of an anode mute
Bingo! But I think you meant "moot"
So you believe the controls of a heater would be more of a problem for the water heater than removing the anode ? You realize parts are replaceable but tank repair isn’t a thing ?
Electric thermostats aren’t in the water. Most gas thermostats fail due to electrical problems not associated with the water quality.
