New System Low Pressure

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mtnxtreme

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New Kingston NY
We have a shallow 30' well in Florida, brand new pump, expansion tank and filter set up, 19 PSI in expansion tank and 35 psi at the pump gauge, the pump is about 50 feet from the house, the pressure is terrible, can anyone help me diagnose ?
 

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Pump specs and curve. Plus a sketch with elevation profile, pipe size, and number of bends, and I might.
 
If your running a 20/40 or even a 30/50 pressure switch and you lose 20 PSI through all those filters, you have no pressure left. You need a pump that can do 60/80 pressure if you have enough filters to lose 20 PSI.

Another way to increase the pressure is to use a constant pressure valve like a Cycle Stop Valve. The CSV works with the same 60/80 pressure switch. But instead of going on at 60 and off at 80 all the time you are using water, the CSV will hold a strong constant 70 PSI with any faucet on. Then if you lose 20 PSI through the filters you still get 50 PSI to the shower.
 
Without hooking up a gauge at the house I can tell you we hook it up to outrRV and it will not run our tankless water heater because it needs a min. of 15 psi to operate, so its 15 psi or less, and the weird thing is when we turn on a hose after sitting a while,its got good pressure for maybe 2 minutes then it just dies off.

Power supply required...........................................................................115 volts or 230 volts, 60 Hz (Pump is set by the factory to run on 115 volts) Maximum water temperature...........................................................................................77°F (25°C) Individual branch circuit required............................................................................15 Amp minimum Discharge connection..........................................................................................................1 in. NPT Suction connection ........................................................................................................1-1/4 in. NPT Motor duty..................... Continuous duty with enforced air cooling and thermal overload protection Pressure switch ...........................................................................Preset at 20 PSI “on” / 40 PSI “off” Water depth rating ................................................................................................. Maximum of 25 ft. ITEM # MODEL # HP VOLTAGE HZ AMP CAPACITY - U.S. GALLONS PER MINUTE AT DISCHARGE 20 PSI 0 FT. 5 FT. 15 FT. 25 FT. 0955549 148012 1/2 115/230 60 9.5/4.8 11 9.5 6.5 3.5 •
 
Looks like one problem is the well is to deep for the pump. Specs say max depth is 25 ft.
 
GReynolds929 said:
Looks like one problem is the well is to deep for the pump. Specs say max depth is 25 ft.
Click to expand...
I was afraid of that. So what size would you reccomend ? A local plumber felt the filters were too close to the pump, that they should be 50 feet away at the house, but on deep well submerged systems we have in NY, the filters are always right after the expansion tank.
 
Valveman said:
If your running a 20/40 or even a 30/50 pressure switch and you lose 20 PSI through all those filters, you have no pressure left. You need a pump that can do 60/80 pressure if you have enough filters to lose 20 PSI.

Another way to increase the pressure is to use a constant pressure valve like a Cycle Stop Valve. The CSV works with the same 60/80 pressure switch. But instead of going on at 60 and off at 80 all the time you are using water, the CSV will hold a strong constant 70 PSI with any faucet on. Then if you lose 20 PSI through the filters you still get 50 PSI to the shower.
Click to expand...
Can just add that to my current setup you see in the pic ? What are we talking cost wise ?
 
GReynolds929 said:
Looks like one problem is the well is to deep for the pump. Specs say max depth is 25 ft.
Click to expand...
It doesn't matter how deep the well is, all that matters is where the water level is, and will it stay at that level with the pump running.
 
RS said:
It doesn't matter how deep the well is, all that matters is where the water level is, and will it stay at that level with the pump running.
Click to expand...
It only takes a minute or two to lose pressure so I dont think level changes much ?
 
mtnxtreme said:
Can just add that to my current setup you see in the pic ? What are we talking cost wise ?
Click to expand...
A pump that can make up to 80 PSI like the Goulds J15S or J5SH will cost 300-500 bucks. The PK1A constant pressure control kit with the 4.5 gallon size tank is $497 freight included. If you have a good tank and pressure switch the CSV1A valve is all you need to make good strong constant pressure and it cost $224.00.
 
Valveman said:
A pump that can make up to 80 PSI like the Goulds J15S or J5SH will cost 300-500 bucks. The PK1A constant pressure control kit with the 4.5 gallon size tank is $497 freight included. If you have a good tank and pressure switch the CSV1A valve is all you need to make good strong constant pressure and it cost $224.00.
Click to expand...
So your telling me its either a new Goulds ( better ) pump instead of my Home Depot 150 bucks special or I can keep the Home Depot Special and go with the CSV1A ? My tank and pump are brand new. Is the CPC ok with Pex ? Do you a link for the CPC stuff ?
 
It is common for a 30' deep well to have water 5'-10' from the surface. But if the water level is at 24' ore deeper, a shallow well jet pump cannot lift from that depth. I cannot tell which HD pump you have from those specs. But pumping 3.5 GPM at 20 PSI from 25' means that pump can only build maybe 50 PSI max. Lifting from 25' you will lose half of that. I mentioned those particular Goulds pumps because they will build 80+ PSI. Any pump that will build 80 PSI or more can be set up to give you maybe 60 PSI max, even if the water is at 24'. But if the water is that deep or deeper you really need a deep well jet pump or a submersible to build the pressure you need. With those filters you are going to lose maybe 20 PSI, so you need to start 20 PSI higher than the normal 40/60 switch to get good pressure to the house.

The PK1A constant pressure control kit will work with any pump. But it can only be set as high of pressure as the pump can build.
 
I can't believe they can sell pumps with no more information than that. It still doesn't give the max pressure. That is probably a sign that it doesn't make enough pressure, so they don't list it. Again, from that stupid chart, I am GUESSING that pump cannot even build 50 PSI, and the deeper it is to water the less pressure it can build. I would guess pumping from 25' that it cannot even build 40 to shut off a 20/40 switch. So, yes if you want good pressure you will need a good pump. It doesn't have to be a brand name, but needs to show a max pressure of at least 80 PSI. That way it can still be 20' to water and the pump still work with a 40/60 switch. Starting with 40/60 you would still have 20/40 after the filters. But starting with 20/40 you got nothing left after the filters.
 
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