mobile home shower valve help

[corvairbob]

i have been trying to help some people fix there shower valve. it has STH on the bottom of the body and it has 2 different valve stems in it. on looks like a npt thread and one looks like most i have seen on websites that has the shoulder and a gasket to seal the stem in the body.

the seat is maybe 1" long and it looks like it has a square area in the bottom for a seat wrench but my seat wrench tool will not even come close to going into the seat for removing it. i can get a 1/4" allen wrench down inside the seat and then i hit that area for the normal wrench would go to remove it. more than likely i will wind up drilling the seat out and installing new ones, but i have to find out what seat it takes.

i have photos of the stem and what the seat looks like with what appears to be notches for the wrench. but now i will have to find a wrench for this unless i can make one out of some key stock.

so i think i have located the stems but with photos and numbers i hope you can tell me for sure. and help with the seats. if they only make a few sizes in the long seats i will just get a kit and then i should have one that works.

here are some photos of what i'm up against and i sure hope someone here can help me find the parts for this so i can help those folks out. she is of work from surgery and he is a disabled vet
first 3 are the seat i just took out and got numbers across then threads for the body of the stem i have .738" across the stem that holds the rubber washer i have .438" and the overall length is 1.543"

the nest photo is the other seat that i had to rework to get the huge divit out of it so they could shut off the water. and inside that i think you can see the notches for the removal tool but i have to find a tool to remove these and install new seats. maybe you can help me onthat tool? part number? or store that has them?

the last photo is the numbers i got from the stem valve the other part is my interpretation of what i think the seat might look like bases on looking at the thing up close. this photo is the one i refinished and it looks like it is not done but it has about 75% flat surface at that divit you see around the 10 o'clock spot. i figure if i can get new seats and i get a removal tool that fits but then will not get the seats out i can drill them and then use a punch to try for the remaining parts or use left hand drills to drill it out and hope that they then just work free form the heat of drilling. i do not want to put a torch on this for fear of damage to the body or the shower wall. the other side stem looks like a npt thread as it fit into a coupling easy and just about all the way but it is possible it is a straight thread and just magooed up some lats photo and i had to cobble this so they could have the water turned back on and the shower not run but it is just about out of working threads and will soon strip out for sure it is shown in the full closed position and when i turned the handle 1/2 turn more it was at the end of those working threads

so can anyone help me figure this one out? thanks

 

[Twowaxhack]

I’m going to guess streamway or empire brass.

 

[corvairbob]

I’m going to guess streamway or empire brass.

thanks i did get a mobile home company tell me about a complete new faucet but if i replace the complete faucet i will have to remove the siding and i really do not want to go down that road. i did look up empire and they have faucets that look like this but they don't show the backside of them so that i can get an idea what other parts may be needed. i have not yet looked at streamway so i will head to there website and see what they have for parts. thanks

 

[Geofd]

Not to throw awrench in it but looks like Gerber to me 1 stem is solid with no markings
The other has a line in it....I know that's what Gerber stems look like,

 

[corvairbob]

Not to throw awrench in it but looks like Gerber to me 1 stem is solid with no markings
The other has a line in it....I know that's what Gerber stems look like,

ok what one looks like a gerber the one i have in my hand or the one i had to cobble to get the water back on with the tee handle on it? also i need to locate the seats are they all the same thread and the same diameter but maybe different lengths? the good seat i can fit a 1/4" allen wrench into the opening but it will not go thru where the key is at for removing them. i have one of the L-style seat wrench's with a hex on 1 end and square on the other end and it was just to large.

 

[Twowaxhack]

I think someone put the wrong stem in the valve body. One has a packing nut and one doesn’t.

I think the one that doesn’t have the welded handle is the original.

 

[corvairbob]

thanks i kind of wonder the same thing. i have the measurements for the one that i did not cobble up. this is the measurement for the one your thinking is the original stem. someone said gerber and i looked for gerber but they do not show the measurements. the one i cobbled will fit into a 1/2" steel coupling real nice but it may have been just because they both will. i did not force that cobbled one just a test fit. so if i can find new ones that will work and the seats that are the correct size and length i will change out the valves and stems. if the seats turn out to be to long i can work them into the correct fit but i need to get at least ones that are long enough. i can fit a 1/4" hex wrench into the seats but i did not get a length the hex wrench was inside that seat. i did not think of that until i got home. if those type of seats are all the same dia but different lengths i might get a bunch and see what one fits the best. if i could have got that old seat out i would have got the measurement's and photos.
thanks

 

[Twowaxhack]

If the threads and the diameter are correct then you can cut the seat to length with a tubing cutter and polish it with fine sandpaper to polish.

If the original seat has a defect in the face, I have use a file to file the seat face down resurfacing the face. Polish with fine sandpaper. It’s like resurfacing brake rotors

Or if the defect is deep I have used a file to find solid margins and then filled the defect with solder. File the excess solder away. It’s like filling a tooth.

 

[corvairbob]

yes i figure that is what i would have to do but i need to find the correct size seats that will at least be long enough and fit, if to long i will reseat them into correct length. but i need to find a tool to remove the old seats also. i do not have the correct tool for those deep seats.

 

[Twowaxhack]

yes i figure that is what i would have to do but i need to find the correct size seats that will at least be long enough and fit, if to long i will reseat them into correct length. but i need to find a tool to remove the old seats also. i do not have the correct tool for those deep seats.

Might have to make one. . I’ve had to before.

Think about just replacing it. It might be what you end up doing anyway.

 

[corvairbob]

i can i guess but this is getting to be a job and not helping out. if it was at my house i would now be working it as i have the tools to make one but not out at there house 10 miles away. and then if i do manage to remove it and break it i then have to hustle to figure out how to get into the back of the shower thru the siding to start installing a new faucet. i rather just replace the worn items. but if i can't find one what i told them i would do to get this done is repair the hot water side that has the original seat and that is in good shape and then build a new valve stem assembly and cut the seat down until i have a good solid and clean seat and fab up a stem this 2 or 3 added rubber stem seats on that to get the rubber down to the seat and the valve in the working range for the threads. but again this may be lots of driving back and forth

if it turns out to be a hassle i will just rip off the siding and then have good access to the back of the shower and just install a new unit. and the way it is looking i may just do this next week and be done with it. that is tons of house work but then they have a new system. so i will cut the shower head pipe and put a hose in there for the splice and install the new valve with shut off 1/4turn valves they can access form inside and be done with it.

i really do not want to go that route if i can repair it from the inside but it is not looking good at all. because i then will have to cut into the siding and then rework it back to some kind of closure.

thanks

 

[Twowaxhack]

Take pics of all your trim handles and entire valve and send to Chicago faucet shoppe.com. They have a special email address to send them to. It’s on their website. They might can help you out with any tools you might need.

Count the splines on the one stem that’s in descent shape and post that number for me.

 

[corvairbob]

i can't count them now but looking at the stem in my hand it looks like 16 or maybe 18 based on counting half of them that you can see take a look and maybe you can tell. i will contact chicago faucet now and see what i can see or send then photos and maybe they can figure this out. my hurdle now will be getting the seats out and finding new ones so i can get the job done in a few hours. at this point i thinking hard about just cutting the side of the trailer open and changing out the complete valve and patching up the siding. it is almost easier that locating the parts for the old valve.

 

[Twowaxhack]

I keep coming up with streamway or American brass.
https://www.fergusonrepairparts.com/category/sw-stms/filter:/

 

[corvairbob]

i sent all the photos to Ferguson and they said they did not have anything i even went to the local store and they did not even try to look, they said nope. but i will try this link maybe that will show something better? i wonder if it really makes a difference in the broach points if they use universal handles? unless i can get handles for the stems at the time i order them? but i have to find the seats also, if i can't find the seats i may take the old stem and cut the washer holder off and solder it to the new stem and then cut the seats to fit the new valves? thoughts? i found those stems on that link and i will ask them to suggest the part they think will fit based on that diagram with the numbers on it?
thanks

 

[Twowaxhack]

These are commonly found in mobile homes. You have a choice of seat length based off your particular valve.

I’d order this once I was sure I could remove the seat to measure it

https://secure.lockeplumbing.com/de...RH&r1=WHE-USS25C&r2=GRU-595916&r3=FEI-NL9-LED
The people at Ferguson don’t know jack……

 

[corvairbob]

ok that link may be the ones i need if it comes with the stems and all those seats i can then pick the closes ones and refinish then if they are to long. i sent a question to the chicago site and photos so maybe they can help and even get me the correct seat tool for these seats thanks

 

[Twowaxhack]

This seat removal design is awesome.

It’s a fine thread easy out reverse thread. Large taper and small taper.

You push the tool into the seat as you turn and it threads it’s way in until the seat splits or it comes out.


I only use it if the seat is stripped. So it’s one of the last ditch tools. If this tool doesn’t work I resort to a large flat head screwdriver driven in tight with a small hammer, then turn.

Mine is made by Perfect Match

https://www.noelsplumbingsupply.com/product/easy-out-faucet-seat-removal-tool/
I wouldn’t be nearly as effective without it.

 

[corvairbob]

This seat removal design is awesome.

It’s a fine thread easy out reverse thread. Large taper and small taper.

You push the tool into the seat as you turn and it threads it’s way in until the seat splits or it comes out.


I only use it if the seat is stripped. So it’s one of the last ditch tools. If this tool doesn’t work I resort to a large flat head screwdriver driven in tight with a small hammer, then turn.

Mine is made by Perfect Match

https://www.noelsplumbingsupply.com/product/easy-out-faucet-seat-removal-tool/
I wouldn’t be nearly as effective without it.

great thanks as long as it fits inside those seats? i have the l style and the ends fit and that was it. so i tried the taper easy outs the are square and tapered i have had good luck with them on bolts but one went into the seat but bottomed out before the tool hit the seat and then i tried the next larger one and it fit at the end of the seat and i tapped it but i was scared it was going to split the seat and then i would have been up the creek as i had no spare ar any parts to put into it. i did bring shutoff valves the to install them i would have to cut the siding and gain access to the system. that was a last resort. but if i have parts that i know will fit i will take the chance even if i have to drill them out and then use the seat tool i have or a driver and finish it. but no parts means no go for now. but you sent me a ling for parts that sure look like they will work and this neat tool so if one of those companies come back with parts they say will work i'm good to go with the job. thanks for this tool also it is on my list
thanks

 

[Twowaxhack]

I wouldn’t suggest drilling anything.

The seat tool I posted is just to remove seats but I only use it to remove stripped seats.

Yours isn’t stripped yet, you don’t have a seat wrench deep enough to reach the square. I’d make one or just replace the valve.

I escalate what I do to the faucet as things fail. I follow a process.