Where do you want to put the shutoffs?
At the location shown in your pic, which looks like a union type of fitting?
Or do you want to splice them in lower down, which is what I would do.
With either a Sharkbite pex to pex shutoff, or use pex to pex crimp shutoff if you have the tool.
The pex is 1/2, I assume since the fitting below is “1/2 pex” see image.The picture is showing a pex faucet adapter fitting. It transitions from pex to the faucet inlet.
I see these a lot in Manobloc type systems.
Manobloc systems can use 3/8” ID tube ran directly to each fixture. Each fixture has a cut off at the main manifold usually located in the garage, laundry room, etc.
No cut offs under the fixture.
That’s why I asked what size his pipe was.
Thanks, I think I like Jeff’s idea of cutting the pex further down, any cons to doing that?You need a 1/2” pex x 3/8” od straight stop valve and a 3/8” x 12” faucet connector.
The valve can be crimp on with the ring or you can go push fit. I’d go crimp, but I’m also a pro and have the tools and experience.
Good luck to you sir.
Sure, cut wherever you’d like, just get a long enough faucet flex line.Thanks, I think I like Jeff’s idea of cutting the pex further down, any cons to doing that?
Exactly but worse. It would be like having a breaker for every outlet or light fixture.I have no experience with Manoblock systems.
It sounds like they are set up like electrical systems, with home runs to a manifold with service stops, kind of like house wiring leading to a breaker box.
Can’t he just splice in a pex to pex straight stop, and leave the faucet supply connection as is?Sure, cut wherever you’d like, just get a long enough faucet flex line.
YesCan’t he just spice in a pex to pex straight stop, and leave the faucet supply connection as is?
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