I am having the exact same issue that Lori had. It is STILL unresolved and I'm on my 3rd repairman. New retirement building, brand new dishwasher and disposal. Have never been able to use the DW, because it because it stops mid-cycle when the disposal overheats and trips the reset button. It is NOT just really warm because of hot water draining through, it's too hot to touch for more than a couple seconds. The first two repairmen would not stay for the whole cycle to really see what was happening. The 3rd repairman is doing his damnedest to figure it out, but he's from another complex and is only here once a week! I have done a lot of research and detective work on my own and documented how long it runs before the problem happens, what time I reset the disposal after cooling down, etc., and then what time the dishwasher shuts down again, due to disposal tripping the button. Any advice or help is appreciated! Who has dealt with this issue before and how was it resolved? P.S. The disposal works perfectly fine on its own and I never run the disposal when I'm trying to use the DW.
Garbage disposal overheats when using dishwasher
- Thread starter Lori
- Start date
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Jeff Handy
Pro Handyman, NOT A Pro Plumber
Sounds like the incoming water supply is just super hot.
You can add a tempering valve under your sink, that will mix hot with cold.
You could also try temporarily running the dishwasher on straight cold water, with the heating element and sani cycle off, then try again with element on.
It could also be the heating element is bad, or bad thermostat.
But some condos or apts are notorious for blistering hot water supply.
You can add a tempering valve under your sink, that will mix hot with cold.
You could also try temporarily running the dishwasher on straight cold water, with the heating element and sani cycle off, then try again with element on.
It could also be the heating element is bad, or bad thermostat.
But some condos or apts are notorious for blistering hot water supply.
Thanks Jeff. After the last repairman left and I found out he wasn't going to be back for a week, I had to continue my disposal cooling periods/reset/and DW resume cycles until the entire cycle was completed, because I didn't want the standing mid-cycle water to remain in the bottom to get stagnant and stinky, which happened the only other time I tried using the darn thing. Unfortunately, sigh, I had used the boost setting, which is a longer setting. After I finally got through the entire cycle, I got the bright idea of using the light/shortest cycle to see if it did it on that cycle too. I don't know what the water temp is on that cycle? It DID do the exact same thing on that cycle as well. They never even gave us the manuals for our appliances, but you better believe some of us demanded them, and I got mine after he left. After reading everything, I realize now that I could have just cancelled the cycle, which I believe would have drained it. I am a retired nurse, not a plumber, appliance repair person and/or electrician. When the repairman comes back, I'll share your response/ideas with him. Thanks for your input. If you think of anything else, throw it at me.
I'm confused since it sounds as if the garbage disposal is turned on when the dishwasher is turned on? Two different appliances, two different switches. What am I missing?
No, I am not running the disposal during any of this. I am just trying to use my dishwasher. It starts up normally and runs for a while. After a time, the DW shuts down mid-cycle, lights out on the control panel, etc. The disposal reset button is tripped, and the disposal outside casing is too hot to touch. The disposal switch, under the sink cabinet, was off when I started the DW, and remained off when the DW shuts down.
Call an electrician.
Thanks!
And, please do not use that dishwasher until an electrician fixes it. Your circuit is either overloaded, or wired wrong, but this is an extremely dangerous situation.
Bird Doo Head
Well-Known Member
I agree to call a licensed and insured electrician. (Not a Craigslist trunk-slammer)
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Bird Doo Head
Well-Known Member
It's called a "Multiwire Branch Circuit" and is allowed in NFPA-70 (National Electrical Code) at article 200.4 if the breakers are on opposite phases. Neutral current can't get above breaker rating. Handle ties on the breakers are required.
For single phase (your house) neutral current will only be the unbalance between the loads (difference between dish & garbage disposer load). Loads with high harmonics create different circumstances, but disposer and dish are very low harmonic loads.
Note:
If the breakers are on the same phase, the neutral current will be additive. Against code & very dangerous.
I have been telling them (management) that I believed, with my limited knowledge of what I have figured out SO far, it's a fire/electrical hazard! They choose who comes to look at it, not me. I will share all of this with the current repairman when he comes Thursday. No, I won't use it in the meantime.
Thanks!
This electrical info is all WAY above my knowledge level, but I have felt from the beginning of all this that it's possibly an electrical/fire hazard issue! I have told management that! I did wonder if things were wired incorrectly and told them that also. I will share everything that you've all responded with so far when the guy returns Thursday. My dear husband was a contractor/electrician/plumber, and a Vietnam Vet. My God, when he passed suddenly, he left with a wealth of knowledge! I appreciate everyone's input here. Thanks so much.
The breakers cannot be independent of each other. They must be double pole breakers or as Bird Doo Head said, the breakers need handle ties.
"The National Electrical Code permits multiwire branch circuits, but adds requirements to make them safer. Section 210.4(B) states that in the panelboard where the branch circuit originates, all ungrounded conductors must be provided with a means to disconnect them simultaneously. This is usually a double-pole breaker, but two single-pole breakers may be used if they have an identified handle tie."
They can be single if they have the handle tie.
They still can be single breakers though, even if the code considers them as one with the tie.
I’ve seen one trip and not the other even though they’re connected. I suggest a person flip the breakers off and then back on when in doubt.
The important part is they’re on opposite phases or things get hot. The breaker tie is probably so when you’re working on one branch the other branch isn’t energized at the same time, they’re both off.
I don’t read his posts and I made that post almost 2 years ago…..I have no idea what the code allows now or then, just what I’ve seen in the field. Kinda the wrong forum to be discussing electrical in this context.
Enjoy your day.
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Yes, I know it was an old post that has resurfaced. I wasn't even a member when it first came up and was just reading the old posts to get up to speed.
A weird problem that is more electrical than plumbing that just involves plumbing items.
I just wanted to point out for those reading these posts who may decide to do this that the best practice for a shared neutral is to use a double pole breaker. As you point out, "the important part is they're on opposite phases". As it is impossible for a two-pole breaker to be installed such that the breakers are on the same phase, that assures the "important part" is satisfied.
Thanking everyone for their responses so far! I placed my question in the plumbing forum because I saw the post from Lori that seemed to be exactly the issue I was having too. I'll be surprised if it DOESN'T turn out to be electrical. Since I don't own this place, just rent a unit in this retirement community, I have to go through management to get ANYTHING done, and they, in turn, have to go through corporate. Dear God, it's a headache!
...but writing a nicely worded letter to management puts them on notice that if they fail to fix in a reasonable time frame, they will be held liable for any and all damages.
(You may need to consult with an attorney for the perfect verbiage)
(You may need to consult with an attorney for the perfect verbiage)
I’d call an electrician and get the safety issue corrected immediately.
I’d keep the invoice and submit it with my lease payment minus the cost to make my home safe, and submit a copy to the property management all via certified mail.
Then probably start looking for a new place to live.
I’d keep the invoice and submit it with my lease payment minus the cost to make my home safe, and submit a copy to the property management all via certified mail.
Then probably start looking for a new place to live.
I know in my state, electrical issues constitute immediate action items and potential civil action against the landlord. As said before, it is best to check with an attorney or Google your specific state's Residential and Landlord rights.
