If the rod is long enough, increasing the distance between the switch and top of tank will help. Instead of the 4x4 try 12 or 16 inches.
Float lever sticking & power to jet pump problem
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Ah, raising it up may make he lever stay straighter? It has a good several inches sticking out the top. Thank you!
That may help and be easier than trying to get a pipe up there.
That may help and be easier than trying to get a pipe up there.
Tighter fit going through the top of the tank and/or a short nipple through the top of tank may also help.
yeah, part of the problem on that is that the switch keeps shifting away more. Not sure how that block keeps moving, but it does. I might need to find a different mounting method entirely. Even if I have to find a way to get a board mounted to the old pipe and extend it over to the block to rest on top of it and move the switch to where it can reach with the rod straight. I'm considering seeing if I can fit a pvc coupling in the hole to help reduce the hole size and make it go straight more. My friend said at the very least he's going to unscrew where the switch currently sits and turn it over the hole and re-screw it down with the rod straight.
Temporary solution to the problem. Moved the block on to a mount and popped it in to the 1/2" coupling. Got it lined up so it is no longer jamming.
I want to reinforce it better so it won't move if accidentally bumped and I want to get a larger cover to protect electrical on it since the regular covers won't fit (I think because it acts as a junction for the jet pump). Need to talk to my friend about using a junction box instead so the regular cover might fit.
The screws holding the mounting bracket are 3" long. Friend used my new hammer drill attachment on the Matrix to secure it. Now he wants one of those attachments. LOL.
I want to reinforce it better so it won't move if accidentally bumped and I want to get a larger cover to protect electrical on it since the regular covers won't fit (I think because it acts as a junction for the jet pump). Need to talk to my friend about using a junction box instead so the regular cover might fit.
The screws holding the mounting bracket are 3" long. Friend used my new hammer drill attachment on the Matrix to secure it. Now he wants one of those attachments. LOL.
I'm happy to report that the float lever has not jammed since doing this setup. Part of the problem with the old setup was that with the rod at an angle it started rubbing at the hole and actually made the hole larger. I would still eventually like to get some sort of union that will fit through the hole to protect it and give the rod more guidance.
*knocking on wood* that it will stay sturdy without problems. Still working on a cover solution but have been busy with puppies and cleaning.
*knocking on wood* that it will stay sturdy without problems. Still working on a cover solution but have been busy with puppies and cleaning.
I spoke too soon. Lower nut on the rod caught on the block. I'll have to trim the block back or cut a hole to allow the nut to slide up unobstructed. I'm still cooling off from weed-cutting though so I will have to tackle it later.
My friend notched out the mount but the pump stopped turning on after I had turned the breaker off and back on again. The other pump (on the same breaker) is still running. Pump would not run to fill cistern and I don't know why. Turned off power to it for now. It's now over $70 for the float lever switches (if the one I have is burned out) and I'm tired of having to mess with it so often.
I'm wondering if this would work: Taidacent Automatic Water Level Controller Water Pump Controller Water Tank Automatic Filling System Either to Fill or Empty a Tank Two Non Contact Water Tank Water Level Sensors 1 Meter Cable: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Looks like it has built in contactor and can go up to 250v. The pump is under that.
It looks like I could have my incoming lines go straight to the controller and I believe the sensors can be put inside the tank if they don't work outside. No messing with floats, rods, and other bs.
So, my plan is to have incoming lines go to a junction box (which is already mounted in the shed) divert to a weatherproof box (which I already have) for the controller, and then out to the sensors and pump. I may get a 2-gang weatherproof box instead of two separate boxes, but we'll see. Stuff in that shed needs to be waterproofed due to the leaky roof (I really should get a ladder and flex seal the roof).
But we currently have no water bc of this mess. Hoping its a loose wire or something that can be fixed easily as the switch I have is not available locally (if it is ruined).
In the junction box I plan to use https://www.amazon.com/Wago-3-WIRE-10-AWG-221-613/dp/B07GGRFHKW/
I'm wondering if this would work: Taidacent Automatic Water Level Controller Water Pump Controller Water Tank Automatic Filling System Either to Fill or Empty a Tank Two Non Contact Water Tank Water Level Sensors 1 Meter Cable: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Looks like it has built in contactor and can go up to 250v. The pump is under that.
It looks like I could have my incoming lines go straight to the controller and I believe the sensors can be put inside the tank if they don't work outside. No messing with floats, rods, and other bs.
So, my plan is to have incoming lines go to a junction box (which is already mounted in the shed) divert to a weatherproof box (which I already have) for the controller, and then out to the sensors and pump. I may get a 2-gang weatherproof box instead of two separate boxes, but we'll see. Stuff in that shed needs to be waterproofed due to the leaky roof (I really should get a ladder and flex seal the roof).
But we currently have no water bc of this mess. Hoping its a loose wire or something that can be fixed easily as the switch I have is not available locally (if it is ruined).
In the junction box I plan to use https://www.amazon.com/Wago-3-WIRE-10-AWG-221-613/dp/B07GGRFHKW/
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Turns out the lever arm was too loose. Screw needed to be tightened. My friend figured it out and fixed it. Wish I'd thought of it, but I didn't know what to look for.
My brother took video of the current setup-- it's not a great video.
View attachment floatleverswitch1.mp4
My brother took video of the current setup-- it's not a great video.
View attachment floatleverswitch1.mp4
Glad you got it fixed. But I wish you had tried that other Gizmo, as it looks interesting and might work.
One problem with the other gizmo is the power input. It takes hot, neutral, and ground. But my wires are hot, hot, ground. So my friend isn't sure that it would work.
As an update, I lost my balance while trying to turn a shutoff due to a leaking outdoor pipe today & I fell on top of the pipes. They broke off below the Tee going to the pressure tank, under the ground going to the house, & after the main shutoff at the tee that splits to barn and front yard.
The house ball valve was already broken (a wing broke off) and it was jammed. The main one was also jammed due to cold. I am going to replace those and I will have to replace the one to the front yard because the fittings are too close I think. I *might* be able to salvage the shutoff to the barn.
I've been wanting to redo stuff, but it will be cold and I will have limited time to work on stuff. My main priority is getting the water to the house fixed-- which is going to suck because it broke off under the ground and some dirt already fell into the pipe. I have a trowel to dig it out tomorrow when it warms up enough.
This is my crappy sketch of how the pipes run:
From what I can recall/tell of the setup it transitions from metal to pvc, then has a horizontal 90 toward the pressure tank. From there it has a vertical 90 down through the top of a vertical tee. Side outlet/inlet goes to an elbow down then to an elbow horizontal to the pressure tank. From the bottom of the tee it has an elbow going horizontal to the main shutoff. Below this tee is where it broke off. After that shutoff it has a tee that branches to the house water from the outlet/inlet and the side continues to another tee that goes to the outdoors (I think the barn), after that 2nd tee is a shutoff for more outside area (I believe the front yard). The house waterline has a shutoff that was broken. All 3 shutoffs lead to 90s that go down into the ground. The one for the house broke off below ground.
I need to replace it all and am thinking of streamlining it a little bit better so it won't be so convoluted. I'm thinking of adding/moving the main shutoff before the pressure tank (in case the pressure tank ever needs to be replaced or moved or whatever) then I can maybe rotate the pressure tank and possibly raise it up more (if possible) so I won't need quite as many elbows. I'm thinking of having the tee run horizontally instead of vertically if I can manage it. But we'll see how things work. I only bought 3 more shutoffs as there were only 3 that worked in the store (others wouldn't turn). But I got 3 tees, about 6 couplings, 6 elbows, etc... Hopefully those will all work.
Any suggestions on how to rig it (this will be temporary until I get get a better setup and eventually move the pump up)?
This is the current setup with breaks marked and some ideas but need more streamlining.
The house ball valve was already broken (a wing broke off) and it was jammed. The main one was also jammed due to cold. I am going to replace those and I will have to replace the one to the front yard because the fittings are too close I think. I *might* be able to salvage the shutoff to the barn.
I've been wanting to redo stuff, but it will be cold and I will have limited time to work on stuff. My main priority is getting the water to the house fixed-- which is going to suck because it broke off under the ground and some dirt already fell into the pipe. I have a trowel to dig it out tomorrow when it warms up enough.
This is my crappy sketch of how the pipes run:
From what I can recall/tell of the setup it transitions from metal to pvc, then has a horizontal 90 toward the pressure tank. From there it has a vertical 90 down through the top of a vertical tee. Side outlet/inlet goes to an elbow down then to an elbow horizontal to the pressure tank. From the bottom of the tee it has an elbow going horizontal to the main shutoff. Below this tee is where it broke off. After that shutoff it has a tee that branches to the house water from the outlet/inlet and the side continues to another tee that goes to the outdoors (I think the barn), after that 2nd tee is a shutoff for more outside area (I believe the front yard). The house waterline has a shutoff that was broken. All 3 shutoffs lead to 90s that go down into the ground. The one for the house broke off below ground.
I need to replace it all and am thinking of streamlining it a little bit better so it won't be so convoluted. I'm thinking of adding/moving the main shutoff before the pressure tank (in case the pressure tank ever needs to be replaced or moved or whatever) then I can maybe rotate the pressure tank and possibly raise it up more (if possible) so I won't need quite as many elbows. I'm thinking of having the tee run horizontally instead of vertically if I can manage it. But we'll see how things work. I only bought 3 more shutoffs as there were only 3 that worked in the store (others wouldn't turn). But I got 3 tees, about 6 couplings, 6 elbows, etc... Hopefully those will all work.
Any suggestions on how to rig it (this will be temporary until I get get a better setup and eventually move the pump up)?
This is the current setup with breaks marked and some ideas but need more streamlining.
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That should work. But is would really simplify and reduce things to switch to a PK1A kit. Plus, you would have much stronger constant pressure in the house.
Thanks. It was just a temporary fix so we could get water back. I derped and got 1" pipe (because that is what came out of the pump and went into the tank) but didn't realize it reduced to 3/4" for the rest. So, I had to make do with existing stuff and scavenge used fittings that still had enough pipe on them to work. I ended up not hooking up the outside water lines because they were off anyway. Only got the house water hooked up in a weird way. I'm planning to run PEX to the outside lines to make things easier (I don't care as much about water pressure there). Only moved the pressure tank slightly to get the right angle. It's a tight fit with the pipe to the main waterline (didn't have enough 3/4" elbows to do it differently). I had to scramble to find an old pipe with an elbow sticking out from under the house and cut it off. When I get my body cooperating I'm going to go out and get pictures.
So, I plan to add a tee to the new pipe we ran and connect to the outside lines with PEX.
I'm thinking of adding another shutoff for the house water after the tee (so I'd move it over more) but I'm not sure if I have enough space for it.
Eventually I want to streamline it: Swap out galvanized for stainless steel. Keep the run 1" up to the pressure tank and then reduce to 3/4" and use PEX to connect to the outside. I might stick with PVC for the house water to avoid restricting flow more. Although, I have pex under the house so I don't think it would matter too much. Pex might make things easier to deal with. I wish I'd bought the sidekick thingy before prices went up more but hindsight is 20/20.
I'm thinking of adding another shutoff for the house water after the tee (so I'd move it over more) but I'm not sure if I have enough space for it.
Eventually I want to streamline it: Swap out galvanized for stainless steel. Keep the run 1" up to the pressure tank and then reduce to 3/4" and use PEX to connect to the outside. I might stick with PVC for the house water to avoid restricting flow more. Although, I have pex under the house so I don't think it would matter too much. Pex might make things easier to deal with. I wish I'd bought the sidekick thingy before prices went up more but hindsight is 20/20.
If you need to replace a large pressure tank, the PK1A "Pside-Kick" is about the same price and will do a much better job.
The pressure tank seems fine for now but I'm needing to budget to save up for stuff. Need more work done on the truck, need to get my teeth fixed, need a new navigation system in my truck bc old one is dying, & need a new phone (mine is slowly dying out, is no longer supported, & can't install newer apps).
I'm hoping prices might be able to go down a little. I'm trying to remember which of the individual CSVs I had wanted to get. I'm also thinking of upping the pressure. I have a 30/50 pump but I'm wondering if I can go to 40/60 to get a little more psi in my waterlines. Would that be a bad idea?
I'm hoping prices might be able to go down a little. I'm trying to remember which of the individual CSVs I had wanted to get. I'm also thinking of upping the pressure. I have a 30/50 pump but I'm wondering if I can go to 40/60 to get a little more psi in my waterlines. Would that be a bad idea?
The CSV1A will work with the pressure tank and stuff you have. The PK1A has the CSV1A valve in it plus a pressure tank and all the other stuff needed to control a pump. 40/60 is much more common than 30/50 these days. Many like me even use 50/70 when there is a bathroom upstairs.
Thanks, Valveman. I don't have any bathrooms upstairs but I think 60psi would not damage any of the plumbing. 40/60 would probably be safe. Would I need to change my pressure switch to that or could I keep the 30/50 and then set the CSV1A to 40/60? Or can it be set? Was it the tank that gets set? I need to figure out what my tank is set at. LOL. Ugly fiberglass monstrosity. I plan to get something smaller and less expensive.
Just turn the large adjustment screw three full turns to the right to make a 30/50 switch into a 40/60. The setting of the CSV is completely separate and usually about in the middle of the pressure switch setting. The tank should have 2-5 PSI less air charge than the on setting of the pressure switch.
The PK1A kit with the 4.5 gallon size tank would have a new 40/60 switch and no adjustment would be necessary. But you could use your old switch and other stuff as all you may really need is a CSV1A and a 4.5 gallon size pressure tank. Compare the CSV1A and 4.5 gallon size tank to the price of a 44 gallon or larger tank, even though the 44 gallon tank won't do as good a job.
The PK1A kit with the 4.5 gallon size tank would have a new 40/60 switch and no adjustment would be necessary. But you could use your old switch and other stuff as all you may really need is a CSV1A and a 4.5 gallon size pressure tank. Compare the CSV1A and 4.5 gallon size tank to the price of a 44 gallon or larger tank, even though the 44 gallon tank won't do as good a job.
