I've just installed a new pumping system with a 2 hp Goulds submersible pump and control box CB204112MC which I believe is the correct one. The pump will not start. I've got power through the pressure switch and into the control box but nothing coming out. What am I missing here? It seems very unlikely that the control box is faulty and I have pushed the reset buttons but no luck. Any thoughts? Thanks.
Control Box problem
- Thread starter ian morrison
- Start date
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I'd recommend doing some voltage checking of the lines
After checking to make sure you have 240V to the control box, checking the amp draw when trying to start will be the next thing you need to know.
I just checked and I have 240V to the control box and will start checking amp draw tonight.
Probably a bad wire connection or the relay is bad if you’re not getting any power out of the control box.
I ran a continuity test on all the wiring and there are no shorts or open lines. I haven't taken amp readings yet. This is a new Gould pump and control box. How would I test the relay?
Did you see 240 on the test meter or did you check each leg and it reads 120 on each leg of the power supply ?
Disconnect the wires from the control box and make sure you’re getting 240 on the meter when you touch the two hot legs.
Disconnect the wires from the control box and make sure you’re getting 240 on the meter when you touch the two hot legs.
I may have a faulty pump. A winding resistance valve is off. Main(Y-B) at 2.1 is within specs but the Start(Y-R) is 5.2 where it should be between 10.8 and 12.0. What is making me wonder is the (R-B) value is 7.4 which is the sum of the other two like it is supposed to be. Y,B,R to ground all produce and OL reading. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance,
Yes, I got a 240 reading across the hot legs going into the control box.
What is the model of your pump?
Not sure what else to do. I'm doing some other electrical work and won't have power back at the well for a few days so haven't tested the amp draw. Not sure what that will tell me. The motor isn't stuck as I turned it by hand before installing, wiring tested good for conductivity. I sent an email and a phone message to the manufacturer but nothing back yet.
Replace the control box. You should get power out of the control box no matter if the pump runs or not.
Did you punch the red reset buttons underneath?
Yes.
Yes, I did. Nothing happens.
If that box is not at least clicking and buzzing when you turn on the breaker, you don't have 240 volts to L1 and L2.
Thanks, That looks like the problem as there is no sound when the breaker is turned on and no reading for amps. However, I have 240 volts at L1 and L2. I measured across the hot legs. I also measured each leg to ground and they were both 120 volts-- no dead leg. I haven't checked the circuit breaker yet. Is there anything else I should consider? Couldn't this be a faulty control box?
Sure, anything can be defective.
If the terminal block has a space for sw a jumper is needed to L2.
The terminal block has a space for SW as can be seen in the photo. There is no jumper cable to L2 and the wiring diagram does not show one. If I'm reading this correctly the jumper would then send power through the yellow wire to the coil. I will try this tomorrow. Thanks.
