Better shut off valve suggestion for toilet/sink other than Home Depot

[sarg]

The price is certainly impressive ......... there goes the stimulus check.

 

[Mitchell-DIY-Guy]

???

$10 each for Dahl at Supply House vs.
$8.52 each for BrassCraft at Home Depot?

Quality Made in Canada vs. suspect made in China? For an “up charge” of $1.48?

Seems like a pretty easy decision to me.

 

[sarg]

Not bad ..... I looked at Amazon ..... they want half a kidney.

 

[Mitchell-DIY-Guy]

Not bad ..... I looked at Amazon ..... they want half a kidney.

Yes I noticed that as well twice the price of supply house. Sometimes you can find some incredible deals on Amazon and other times you run into situations like this.

when I bought all my Dahl valves back in 2009 for my driveway heat system I don’t even think supply house sold them; I recall having to go to a manufacturers representative. That turned out well but manufacturers reps really don’t like single small orders they like multiple large ones so I was more of an annoyance to them but they did help me out.

 

[sarg]

Yes sir .... should have looked at Supplyhouse ............ I've made seven orders from them since November. Only place I don't mind paying the shipping. Excellent outfit.

 

[pakle]

The green crud might just be super slow leaks from the compression nut not being cranked down tight enough during installation.

So basically all my valves are likely leaking, just some not visible beyond the point of getting green deposits (I touched them all, not wet at all). The ones showing water were super-slow. The one I found today has formed a single drop and not even leaked below in 10 hrs yet.

I don't know much about these shut-off valves regardless of brand, are they that difficult to install? I know some handy non-pro neighbors have done it themselves. Seems like it should be easy for a handyman, but I'll ask him to make sure the compression nut is tightened enough when he puts the new Dahl valves in. Would hate to have this leaking problem re-occur with Dahl valves after going through all this effort.

 

[Jeff Handy]

That green crud probably formed in the first few months after installation.
Most often, a tiny slow leak will seal itself up after awhile, minerals will plug up the gap.
It might start again if the valve gets jostled around while operating it, or changing flex hoses, etc.

The new valves should be easy to change.
There might be at least four options to mount them.
Option 1, try to reuse the old compression nut and brass ferrule, if they are compatible.
Clean up mineral crud first.
Option 2, use a puller to slide off the old compression nut and ferrule.
You can find these online, or tinker one together.
I have even used just a big crescent wrench set to a whisker wider than the pipe, and swung the wrench from the backside, to gradually tap off the ferrule.
Option 3, VERY carefully cut off the old ferrule by neatly sawing through it, without gouging up the copper pipe.
You can usually put the new ferrule into a fresh spot for a cleaner grab.
Maybe trim the copper stub a half inch or so.
Option 4, just cut the copper pipe stub shorter, removing the section with the ferrule stuck on it.
This only works if you have pretty generous stub length.

 

[HWSleuth]

Yep, Dahl is a good valve. Something we old timers use to do to all chrome valves, flush valves and other drain trim was to wipe down with oil before leaving the job. Just a little extra attention because of where the valves were installed in restrooms. Can you tell I’m “old school?” I wish we had more young guys with “old school” values and character! Mc

 

[pakle]

That green crud probably formed in the first few months after installation.
Most often, a tiny slow leak will seal itself up after awhile, minerals will plug up the gap.
It might start again if the valve gets jostled around while operating it, or changing flex hoses, etc.

The new valves should be easy to change.
There might be at least four options to mount them.
Option 1, try to reuse the old compression nut and brass ferrule, if they are compatible.
Clean up mineral crud first.
Option 2, use a puller to slide off the old compression nut and ferrule.
You can find these online, or tinker one together.
I have even used just a big crescent wrench set to a whisker wider than the pipe, and swung the wrench from the backside, to gradually tap off the ferrule.
Option 3, VERY carefully cut off the old ferrule by neatly sawing through it, without gouging up the copper pipe.
You can usually put the new ferrule into a fresh spot for a cleaner grab.
Maybe trim the copper stub a half inch or so.
Option 4, just cut the copper pipe stub shorter, removing the section with the ferrule stuck on it.
This only works if you have pretty generous stub length.

Thank you! Don't the new Dahl valves come with new compression nuts & ferrules? Why would I want to re-use the old nuts & ferrules?

As for the the green deposits and the slow leaking on so many of my valves, you've opened up a can of worms for me now. I'm not sure if the problem is the handyman's install technique or the Homedepot valves themselves. I've used my handyman for a bunch of remodels over the last 10 yrs and never had a problem, except for this, and I would give him the benefit of the doubt. I really don't know a better plumber at this point to do this. I think I'm going to just have him put in the Dahl valves and hope for the best.

Really appreciate all the advice on this forum.

 

[Jeff Handy]

Yes, new shutoff valves come with new nuts and brass ferrules.

The reason I listed four options should be obvious, if you plow through my typically looong and wordy post, #27.

The old compression nut and ferrule can be your friend, and a handy shortcut, or can be in the way, needing removal by various means.