Best garden hose male end repair?

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pasadena_commut

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One of our garden hoses picked a really inopportune moment to start leaking between the threads and the crimp on the hose. I have repaired these before using parts from Home Depot, which have an inner metal piece which is pushed into the hose and then the assembly finished by applying a standard metal hose clamp. I don't like that type much, they tend to leak and even if a good seal is achieved the free end of the metal hose clamp is waving around and can cause problems. Lowes sells a different type of repair which uses a two part clamp that is pinched on using two screws. Don't know if it works, but the clamp is pretty bulky so that it doesn't look like it would be easy to get a wrench on the nut area behind the threads if a nozzle gets stuck on the hose. Also, I don't trust that the screws wouldn't come out after the end of the hose is dropped a few times on cement.

So, is there a better way to fix the male (or I suppose female) end of a standard garden hose? Something that will reliably not leak, and will produce a hose end which isn't freaky looking or dangerous?

Thanks.
 
I have used the 2 piece type that clamps around the hose with screws. Never had any trouble with them. And the screws get recessed into the plastic. A lot cheaper than buying a new 50 or 75 foot hose. A good one is not cheap.
 
I think the reason most of these mender products leak so much is because the barbed region does not have in the middle somewhere a "flat valley" into which the clamp would be able to press the inside of the hose uniformly, to create a seal at least a centimeter long. Instead they clamp onto the barbs, so the seal is only a couple of millimeters long. I bet the inside of the hose doesn't even touch the smaller radius parts of the barbed regions.

Example:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Orbit-5-8-in-Metal-Male-Mender-27980/204735780#overlay
Edit:

Apparently some of the two part clamp ones get around this by using a sawtooth interior on the clamp. In one of the pictures for the Underhill female mender these are visible inside the clamp:

https://www.amazon.com/Underhill-Connectors-Heavy-Duty-Fittings-HR-75F/dp/B07TDGR7W9?th=1
and others of that variety don't use barbs at all (4th picture):

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Yardsmith-Yardsmith-5-8-In-3-4-In-Metal-Female-Hose-Repair/50328335
 
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I was thinking about this as I avoided being sliced by the hose clamps on the coupler that joined my hose and might try using Oetikker clamps. They usually don't have sharp edges and work very well- often used on engines in marine applications. They're also sold as 'PEX Clamps-

https://www.pexuniverse.com/oetiker-pex-clamps
 
pasadena_commut said:
Those are awfully pricey for this application. Buy two of them and the other needed bits and it is a significant fraction of the cost of a replacement hose.
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I found them on Amazon- 50 pcs for $9.59, 3/4 inch diameter. An end nipper can tighten them.
 
I have not found anything in the 48 years since I bought my first house that will replace a hose end fitting. They all leak.

Or break.
 
skeezix said:
I have not found anything in the 48 years since I bought my first house that will replace a hose end fitting. They all leak.

Or break.
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Are the ones you're referring to the kind that usually have two screws holding the halves of the retainer? I haven't had much luck with those, either. Hose clamps work, but the ends tend to cut. I have used heat shrink tubing on a couple of clamps and that made it better.
 
I think I'll order one of those Orbit 58369 menders and see how it goes.

One reason I think a lot of these fail is that the inside of those has become coated with calcium or other deposits. I just took a gander down the hose I want to repair, with the sun over my shoulder, so good illumination, and it looks a bit rusty in there. We have old galvanized pipes, so not surprising. I will have to clean this out with some vinegar before putting the mender in.
 
I'm glad someone mentioned the wall thickness of the hose being an issue. I've tried using that type in the past, and could never get the inner and outer threads to connect because of the thickness of my hose.
 
havasu said:
I'm glad someone mentioned the wall thickness of the hose being an issue. I've tried using that type in the past, and could never get the inner and outer threads to connect because of the thickness of my hose.
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Doesn't somebody make a replacement connector set, like those for coax cables, etc., that the ferrule can be "crimped" over the prepared end of the hose like the OEM does? Sure, of course a special tool would be required but, heck, if you are "adept" at breaking a lot of hoses it may be cost effective in the long run :beeroclock:
 
BlueSkyHigh said:
Doesn't somebody make a replacement connector set, like those for coax cables, etc., that the ferrule can be "crimped" over the prepared end of the hose like the OEM does? Sure, of course a special tool would be required but, heck, if you are "adept" at breaking a lot of hoses it may be cost effective in the long run :beeroclock:
Click to expand...
And I'm sure it would cost $300-$400!
 
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