In my basement along the outside wall is a trench, about 1" lower then the floor and about 3" wide which goes all around the perimeter of the basement and ends up at the bottom of the Main Stack.The main stack comes down to a Tee with 2 thirds of the tee poured into the basement concrete. So the stack is tied into the top of the tee which is visible, then in the concrete on one side of the tee is hooked into the drain that runs out to the road into the town sewer system all in the concrete, but on the 3rd part of the tee is always open and about 2-3" lower then the trench i mentioned along the basement wall. So i'm always getting sewer gas out of that one side of the tee but can't plug it since i get water in the basement during heavy rains and if i plugged that tee, the basement would flood. I'm just wondering what i can do in this situation, and i don't want to dig that pit deeper and add a sump pump and plug the tee. If they make some sort of plug that lets water in but no air out thats what i would want to do, any suggestions?
Basement Drain Smell/Repair
- Thread starter jpm6621
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Well first off that p trap that's in the picture (laundry maybe) is totally done wrong. The fall on the trap arm exceeds one pipe diameter. So the portion from the trap to the tee. The trap could siphon out and you'd get sewer gas from there. And second you can't use a t wye on its back ( the t fitting where it ties into the drain) you have to use wye fittings. And as far as the part being open in the trench it looks like a clean out so if your sewer backed up that's your access to auger. At least that's my best guess 
. if it is indeed a clean out that has to be capped and isn't intended for draining ground water, but its your house so do as you please. I don't know of anything that would cap it off from the gas but allow water to drain. But maybe someone else has a better idea for you
. if it is indeed a clean out that has to be capped and isn't intended for draining ground water, but its your house so do as you please. I don't know of anything that would cap it off from the gas but allow water to drain. But maybe someone else has a better idea for youI can't think of a cost gentle way of bringing that into compliance with code.
Perhaps a combined storm/sanitary system might be allowed in your area. But an untrapped inlet is not allowed, which is what the trench system is. And if you add a trap, it needs a vent. And the (assuming it is laundry drain) trapped drain needs a vent.
Perhaps a combined storm/sanitary system might be allowed in your area. But an untrapped inlet is not allowed, which is what the trench system is. And if you add a trap, it needs a vent. And the (assuming it is laundry drain) trapped drain needs a vent.
Don't want to offend anyone, but someone did a poor plumbing job on the PVC drain repair. The open drain line at the floor pose a health hazard . Not sure where you are located, but in most area you can not have storm water draining into waste water. I know you don't want to install a sump pump and a pit, but that would be the correct repair and capping the open drain.
Well i understand you can't have storm water draining in the sewer like it does here, but where i live all the houses were built like this. There is a threaded plug that caps that openening up but if i do this then the basement would flood when water seams through and has no place to go. I know the way to do it would be to install that plug and install a sump pump for any water that ends up at this point but wouldn't that consist of digging that concrete out more/deeper for the pump to sit in. As far as the black fernco Tee i installed that knowing its wrong but wanted to tie that drain on the left, which is a basement sink, into the main stack because all it did before was drain into that "pit" that i need to plug/cap. The drain on the right is for the washer which had no trap before and as for telling me it's all wrong, i know this, explain whats the "right way" to finish this job up. I used that black tee cuz i had no "play" up or down on the stack to use a PVC tee to tie into there.
Fair enough. The fernco tee that is off the stack is ok I mean its hard when you don't have much play in the stack. But depending on code in your area some dont allow ferncos above ground. They say banded couplings. For the laundry you need to have a vent, you can use either a air admittance valve or tee into an existing vent which the second option is best. Also the sink in the basement needs its own vent as well. You would install the vent for the laundry before the first tee by the stack (not the fernco tee but the one to the left of it) also like I said before cut out that pvc tee wye and use a wye fitting with a fitting 45 or regular 45. Then it gives the water true direction to go, where as a tee on its side or back doesn't quite have that same flow pattern. Tee wyes are meant for applications like you have with your fernco tee, installed on a vertical piece of pipe. Now to correct the p trap on the laundry, just bring the p trap down level with the new wye have it so that it runs straight into the new wye (put your vent in between the trap and the wye) with slight grade (1/4" /ft) and then you need a vent for your basement sink, you could use the air admittance valve (aka cheater vent) but ideally if possible if there is an existing vent then tie into that. Put the vent for the sink after the p trap but before the laundry, no more than six feet if the pipe is 1 1/2", 8 ft if it is 2" pipe. The closer to the p trap the better like a few feet after the trap is perfect. Another idea I thought of is that your laundry drain pipe should be 2" to be up to code (at least where I live). Hope this all makes sense and best of luck! Someone else may chime in with another idea than mine haha
Well probably another thing done completely wrong. The basement sink drain has a trap underneath with a short piece towards the wall, the wall being white in the picture, on this short piece is a tee on it's side, most likely wrong, on one side of the tee is an air admittance valve and the other part of that tee ends up where you see in the picture, the black fernco coupling/tee with cleanout/and elbow towards that fernco on the stack. Higher up on the main stack theres a tee where i wanted to hook the washer drain too but how could i without a trap? I just need some advice then i can do all the work no problem. Another thing, its so much easier if i had someone here then tell me through a forum but we'll see.
Yeah that Sounds like the sink drain isn't done right either. I know what you mean, it's easier to have someone guide you on what to do in person than online. But like basically what it comes down to is:
1) every drain needs a vent
2) t wyes can't be used on their side or on their back
3) the height of the beginning of the drain also known as the trap arm (p trap outlet) and where it ties into the vent can't drop more than one pipe diameter ex. 1 1/2 pipe can't drop more than 1 1/2 before it ties into the vent. After the vent it can grade as much as you want. Minimum 1/4" per ft up to 3" pipe for grade.
4) also recommended practice to not use 90 degree elbows on drainage better to use two 45 fittings. A fitting 45 and a regular 45 is better than a 90. Makes it easier to auger and less likely to clog up.
5) laundry p trap and drain needs to be 2"
6) also be sure to never decrease size in piping for drainage. If laundry needs to be 2" then everything else has to be 2". Your sink drain can still be 1 1/2 but then you have to increase to 2". Your clean out must be the same size as the line it serves. So that c.o. Should be 2" according to code if the line downstream of the laundry is going to be 2". That c.o would serve that laundry line. At least that's what I'd do.
If your up for it and think you can do it we are here to help but in the same token if your not totally sure then it may be best to call a plumber. Depends on what you think.
1) every drain needs a vent
2) t wyes can't be used on their side or on their back
3) the height of the beginning of the drain also known as the trap arm (p trap outlet) and where it ties into the vent can't drop more than one pipe diameter ex. 1 1/2 pipe can't drop more than 1 1/2 before it ties into the vent. After the vent it can grade as much as you want. Minimum 1/4" per ft up to 3" pipe for grade.
4) also recommended practice to not use 90 degree elbows on drainage better to use two 45 fittings. A fitting 45 and a regular 45 is better than a 90. Makes it easier to auger and less likely to clog up.
5) laundry p trap and drain needs to be 2"
6) also be sure to never decrease size in piping for drainage. If laundry needs to be 2" then everything else has to be 2". Your sink drain can still be 1 1/2 but then you have to increase to 2". Your clean out must be the same size as the line it serves. So that c.o. Should be 2" according to code if the line downstream of the laundry is going to be 2". That c.o would serve that laundry line. At least that's what I'd do.
If your up for it and think you can do it we are here to help but in the same token if your not totally sure then it may be best to call a plumber. Depends on what you think.
And yeah there's no way to tie it in without a trap so yeah I understand your dilemma. But I will say what you did there with the PVC is way better than having it drain into your sump there.
I use to Work for a plumber years ago but unfortunately have forgotten alot of things i've learned, haha. In the end i might have someone come in but it depends on if i have money to pay for something i can do just if i knew the Exact Right Way to do this. I want it done RIGHT no other way.
Haha yeah you lose the touch after a while. And yes definitely make sure it is done right. Post a picture of the work they do and then we'll critique it haha. Also try to avoid any rooter companies if possible. And just remember what we all said on here and you should have a pretty good idea if he does a good job or not.
If you are not selling your home soon and everything seem to drain fine, make the drain repairs later and concentrate on a sump pump so you can close your open drain. Here are some pics for sump pump installation -- Install sump pump in a corner of basement. If you make the repairs yourself cost could possibly stay under $400-$500.
Flotec Basin -- Model fpw73-19
Zoeller Sump Pump -- Model 57
Zoeller Check Valve
PVC fitting and pipe
Gravel
Picasso is in the house!
Everything drains great/fine even better then other drains i've worked on in the past that were installed the correct way, all the traps stay full and don't get siphoned out. I know/knew i needed a sump pump there for quite some time, just felt like posting to hear what others had to say. There is a hole in the foundation that i plugged with great stuff and im pretty sure someone had a pump in that "pit" at some point and this hole is where it drained to outside. For now i just bought a new 3 1/2" lead plug and drilled holes in it so if any water needs to drain, it can. And yes i know that won't solve my problem in any way but im leaving it for now until i have more time.
Glad you could recognize my talents , guest the ole Etch-A-Sketch University College School Of The Arts Toy paid off
