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I have an old house in florida built in the 60s. smaller ranch house that is only 1400sf. The 2 bathrooms are on one end of the house and the kitchen and laundry room are on the other side of the house. I know for a fact my septic and drain field is on the side of my house with the bathrooms...

Everything is pretty accessible and I even have a ladder setup to get to the roof next to the vent already due to removing Christmas lights. Should be an easy quick job for whoever does it as long as they have the proper tools. I just didn't want to get raked over the coals and wanted to know...

P trap is all clean, I removed all the plumbing to the wall before I snaked it myself, I have a thin snake to attach to a drill that gets ordinary things but when I pull it out its got grease on it and within a couple days the drain starts backing up again. As far as stopping grease getting in...

also of note is I have pvc pipe connecting the sink to the rest of the plumbing which is galvanized, not sure how much that matters but is possibly needed info.

Wondering if I can get some general advice here. I have a kitchen sink that is draining slowly. I have snaked it a couple times with a small snake and i am getting a fair amount of grease on the end of the snake. It is the only drain in the house that drains slow so I am assuming it has a decent...

I have a well and no city water option. The water is pretty bad, loads of iron, iron bacteria, tannins (we are on a swamp/lake essentially), sulfur and its also fairly hard. The iron is bad enough that if i fill up a white 5 gallon bucket within 30 minutes the water is totally orange. I have had...

Thanks for the help all, finally got around to doing this today. I had soaked the joints over a period of 3 days with a penetrating sealer and was able to get them off at the first elbow and much to my surprise the threading was still in great condition. I was able to put an adapter easily on...

I know the pressure in the house is nowhere close to 80 but I would need to go outside to verify, i want to say its at 30-60psi. And yes If i used one i planned on running a couple boards across and securely attaching them. I don't want to have to do it at all but its like the last ditch effort...

They are coming out of a slab. I basically need a short term 6 month fix as after this bathroom is gutted the one on the opposite side will be. Then i will be replacing all the plumbing and routing a new water supply to that side of the house through the ceiling. but for now i need to make this...

Here is my problem. For whatever reason whoever originally put the plumbing in this house put elbows about 6" off the ground and they extend about 3/4" past my wall that needs to be tiled. So I have to move these back at least 3/4" so they are flush with my wall or ideally a bit farther back...

Ok so after doing some research it appears there is no real code compliant or actual quality way to attach new piping to this without re threading it. So my next question would be is it possible to re thread this pipe in its current condition? The rust on the outside of this is mostly...

I have a demo ongoing in my house and need to replace the mixing valve for the shower. All the water lines are old galvanized pipes and I seriously doubt I can unscrew them from the original threads and attach new lines. What is the appropriate way to connect an old galvanized pipe to a new cpvc...

Thanks for your help. I can tell you anything you want to know about tile, but plumbing I know just enough to get myself in trouble. I would rather defer to the experts so I can do it right the first time. Especially since doing it wrong means ripping all the tile work out.

Thanks. I am right there so even if its a bit of a pain if its the right thing to do i will remove it. I think this is the part you are refering to connect the new PVC p-trap to the old pipe correct?

Thanks, I found the P-trap and it is there, it will be to much of a pain where everything is located and how deep it is to change it to a pvc p-trap. I cut the slab out enough to get my reciprocating saw in there to cut it off the pipe off 2" above it as suggested. Thanks for the info it helped...

Thanks. I am not plumbing pro but his advice just sounded absurd. I thought using a coupling might be the way to go but do these actually stay together over the years repacked with dirt and concrete over top of them? Also I am a solid 15" down and still have not found the p-trap or an elbow on...

I have a shower remodel I am doing and have a plumbing question. I am redoing the walk in shower and have the floor dug up and removed and need to remove the old drain and connect a new PVC drain for tile. I think this is a cast iron pipe. How do I go about correctly installing a PVC pipe to the...

ive dug it out before to see what i was working with and then filled it back up. There is an elbow but i seriously doubt i will be able to unscrew the pipe out without the elbow breaking as its so corroded. after that elbow the pipe keeps going under my slab all the way to the bathroom which is...

heres a pic of how rusty this thing is

I have dug it out to that point to the elbow and its so rusted and corroded there is no way its going to come off normal and a new piece be screwed back in