Search results

(please) correct my thought process... typically there (or there shouldn't be) will not be any obstructions coming from the condensate lines, so (my thought) is you can extend the line(s) into the receptacle (air break?). If there were the potential for something (food, sludge) then there...

Another option would be something similar to this... Thought the floor drain option looked better?!

Thought was to connect the floor drain right to the standpipe line in the wall.

Yes that is the hvac line, the WH’s line is not there (yet). So we “could” bring the 1/2” WH line over, tee (or wye) it to the 3/4” HVAC and just drop one line into a floor drain?

Here is a pic of the utility room, before it was drywalled. You can see the (capped) standpipe connection at the lower left

Am I over thinking this? Can I just use a floor drain and dump both directly into it?

Hey @Mitchell-DIY-Guy - the hvac and WH are on the other side of the room and we specifically plumbed a line just for these two.

City…

Doing a rehab with new HVAC (attic space) and tankless WH. We have an HVAC (3/4") and WH (1/2") condensate lines we need to exit into a 1-1/2" line (already) plumbed into the utility room. (the house is slab on grade) What are the requirements (if any), other than a trap attached to the...

Everyone of these guys are way more experience than we are, but couple ideas (from past experience)… 14th floor is way up there, are you the only one on that floor? Neighbors have the same problem? Cast iron waste lines crack, you’d (or the pro) would need to open up the wall to check...

I'm with @BlueSkyHigh, 30 years old I'm betting that's a bonding cable and not the GEC. Does the cable jump over the water meter and reconnect? Also, 30-years old, it could also be copper-clad wire and they never used Noalox?!

Now, that’s special

Hate to say it but if that section is corroded through, the rest isn’t far behind. My be worth replacing as much as you can. (Include the clean outs along the way). PVC is cheap, adding another $30 bucks now will save you from doing this again, to a different section, a few months from now.

Pick up a couple pex angle stops and the tools below, you’ll be good to go.

Assuming the garage space is not conditioned (?), which is why they probably put the 1/2” inside the 3/4” (insulation, stop it from freezing). @Twowaxhack is right, you should be good to plumb it out.

You have the unit out now, why not just replace it? (something like this pop-up tub drain or this Supply House pop-up)

Doing a kitchen addition for a rehab and the main waste line is running right through the new crawl space. Was planning on replacing the cast iron inside but this would also give us the opportunity to (at least partially) tie in and add a cleanout to the line exiting the house. (line exits...

Nice ditch witch!

1st mistake/problem - in essence they have an unlimited time period to start finish!? Does the contract mention default and or (again) specific performance?

Said you paid him, assuming you signed a contract? What does it say or reference about a timeline and or (specific) performance/timeline?