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Wow! Was the plumber laughing while he was installing that? What the hell? Somebody just created a little project for you. I'd just aim for the hole in the ground and try not to make a mess!

Installing an expansion tank will always help and will never hurt I say.

For each 90 there's a 5' reduction and every 45 there's a 2.5' reduction. Read you manufacturer's installation instructions.

Only need a expansion tank if you have a pressure regulator, check valve or any devise that will cause a "closed system". PRV's are NOT the reason for an expansion tank.

You have a Glacier Bay and this is why the city of San Diego, for example, does not allow any plumbing fixtures nor piping from China. If an inspector does not see a "UPC", "ANSI", "ASTM" or "UL" stamped on the materials the project is failed regardless of the size of the project. This trend is...

I'd go buy a new faucet / everything and replace it all with new in 15 minutes.

You'll notice houses in your area with two PVC (white) pipes protruding through the side of an exterior wall. One turned up and one is turned down.

Why not run your water softener piping along the wall (strapped/secured) behind the furnace? Leave all appliances readily accessible.

Sure give it a shot. If not a success call the manufacturer and see what you can order to remedy.

Agree with frodo and why isn't that pipe sleeved through concrete? Plumbing Code 312.2 No plumbing piping shall be embedded in concrete or masonry. I'd follow frodos recommendations along with installing a sleeve and caulk between the sleeve and the piping. IPC: 305.1 Corrosion. Pipes...

First...when water pressure exceeds 80 psi you need a pressure regulator and when you have a pressure regulator you need an expansion tank. Also all of your plumbing fixtures have a max pressure rating (water heaters, faucets, ect.). If I see 60 + in my home I'm concerned and fixing that right...

I'd disconnect the water softener and move that out of the way. Then replace the furnace and the water heater at the same time. I'd also use this outage time to look at the softener to see if it needs any maintenance or cleaning.

Are you sure you want to use those valves? Want to install water hammer arrestors on your hot and cold?

I'm in Ca so I'd listen to John. Anytime you need to know if you need a permit or not always call the building department and ask. Each state gives each city, town, village or borough the freedom to adopt their own codes (municipal codes) as long as they're not more lenient than the state which...

In CA we have to have a sudsing drain separate from any drainage - 8' before connecting to the drainage. Also the trap for the clothes washer has to be a minimum of 6" above the bottom plate. I was a residential and commercial plumbing & mechanical inspector in Ohio and CA and your design is a...

For a 3" drain pipe it 6' max to the vent - California. Table 1002.2

I'm in CA and in the CMC there is a section in chapter 3 (310.2) that reads additional protection from leakage or overflow shall be provided. (1) A water level detecting device that will shut off the equipment or appliance in the event the primary drain is blocked. (2) An additional...

Look in chapter 10 of the plumbing code. Also any horizontal venting must be sloped back to the fixture's trap. Air goes up, water goes back to the trap. Proper venting is really important so make sure your sized correctly.

Dielectric unions at the copper to heater connections are great - Cannot have unlike metals touching and the unions make it easier for the contractor / installer to remove and replace next time.

California (Title 24) used to be called UPC (Uniform Plumbing Code) and now it's the CPC (California Plumbing Code).