water pipe layout

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jkiym

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sewickley pennsylvania
I need to redo the water lines in my house. the current set up is a 1" main that reduces to half inch through the pressure regulator and back flow. I want to run pex A because the water is hard on copper and I've had leaks in the supply lines and some copper drain pipes. I want to do a trunk and branch system. the current pipes are 1/2" copper. What size pipe should I use? Should I use 3/4 or 1" for the trunk and branch off to the fixtures with 1/2"? The water heater has 3/4 nipples coming off it. It looks the the pressure regulator can accept 3/4 but the back flow can not. Do I need to get a different one? Also what kind of valve should I use for the washer? It will run down a exposed block wall. I was thinking about putting insulation around the pipe and using 2 hole straps. heres a basic diagram of the house and some pics of the meter. Thanks for everyones help!
 

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Do you have good water pressure now????
I made a copper×pex manifold for hot and cold the main is 3/4" all branches are 1/2" PEX I didn't change the pipe sizes just the configuration
1. Full bath
1. 3/4 bath
2.laundries
1.kitchen
1.slop sink
2. Silcocks
No pressure problems
Keep it simple
Don't use laundry valves they fail open after time use 1/4 turn valves
 
Do you have good water pressure now????
I made a copper×pex manifold for hot and cold the main is 3/4" all branches are 1/2" PEX I didn't change the pipe sizes just the configuration
1. Full bath
1. 3/4 bath
2.laundries
1.kitchen
1.slop sink
2. Silcocks
No pressure problems
Keep it simple
Don't use laundry valves they fail open after time use 1/4 turn valves
My pressure is good. I don't want to a manifold because of the layout of the steps and ducts i have limited space to run pipes
 
That's just the way I did it,of your replacing what's there I would use 3/4 for your main and 1/2 for your branches

That's just the way I did it,of your replacing what's there I would use 3/4 for your main and 1/2 for your branches,
Ok, thanks
That's just the way I did it,of your replacing what's there I would use 3/4 for your main and 1/2 for your branches,
What about the back flow? Does that need to be changed to a bigger one? It seems weird to reduce to 1/2" just to go bake up to 3/4. Or is it the same flow because of the brass fittings?
 
I can't say why they did it that way but if it has always worked there is no need to change any thing have you considered PEX
Rather than copper,if the water is causing .the copper to have pin holes,is any of the copper touching any metal....... Strapping , hangers that will cause a reaction and rot the pipe also
 
I can't say why they did it that way but if it has always worked there is no need to change any thing have you considered PEX
Rather than copper,if the water is causing .the copper to have pin holes,is any of the copper touching any metal....... Strapping , hangers that will cause a reaction and rot the pipe also
My water company is known for having corrosive water. I'm definitely using pex.
 
I just did a re-pipe for my nephew. I cut the galvy out and ran all 3/4" pex and reduced to 1/2" at the drops in the wall to the fixtures. I used crimp pex and I kept it 3/4" because of the fitting reduction going into the pipe, not the pipe going into the fitting like with copper.
 
I just did a re-pipe for my nephew. I cut the galvy out and ran all 3/4" pex and reduced to 1/2" at the drops in the wall to the fixtures. I used crimp pex and I kept it 3/4" because of the fitting reduction going into the pipe, not the pipe going into the fitting like with copper.
What did you recommend for a washing machine on an exposed block wall
 
I ran that in copper so i could strap it to unistrut i mounted on basement block wall. I used isolation strut clamps so the 2 metals of the pipe and strut were separated. He had a laundry tub and the washer shut offs were on the risers to the laundry faucet
 

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