Do You Ream Tubing & Pipe?

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Bird Doo Head

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Many decades ago, I did a plumbing apprenticeship & got my Journeyman's. (I'm not a plumber by trade.) I was sternly taught to always ream pipe ends to remove the burr. The burr would make a place for minerals to build up.

This applied to copper tubing, iron pipe, stainless and brass. The only exception was cast iron soil pipe got the edges cleaned with a grinder unless it was bell-and-spigot. Those got left as-cut.
PVC was just becoming acceptable and we did not touch on it in school.

I sometimes watch house fixing TV shows and never see the plumber ream pipe. Even the guy on This Big Budget show (This Old House) doesn't ream. Also, at work, only the older plumbers and hydronic guys ream pipes & copper tubing.

Do you guys remove the burr inside a pipe after it's cut? Just curious.
 
It is unforgivable to not ream copper pipe back to original i.d.
It causes turbulence in water piping which can cause well documented (and experienced) erosion failure in hot recirculation.
Can contribute to noise in cold water cu tube.
That's all I know.
Done as a matter of industry practice on steel, don't know if truly data-backed there...
 
Thank You Breplumb for confirming that I'm not just another old guy doing the old way "just because".

From Breplumb: ".....erosion failure in hot recirculation."
I've seen that in hydronic systems. I never looked, but after reading your comment, I'll bet the copper tubing wasn't reamed. The errosion was always where the tubing was inside the fitting. I'd imagine a non-reamed PVC closet waste pipe could snag lots of paper.

"Done as a matter of industry practice on steel, don't know if truly data-backed there..."
Don't know for sure what happens in steel water pipes, but not reaming schedule 40 & 80 steel conduit leads to snagged conductor insulation. The gasoline jacket on THHN would get destroyed.

How do I know this?
Despite my plumbing card and time spent working (pipe fitting mostly), plus hydronic and refrigeration licenses; by trade I worked as a master electrician (industrial & high voltage). Industrial heating-cooling were part of the work requirements. Our electrician's threading machines always had reamers on the die arms. Our grooving machines did also. We also reamed pipes to be butt-joint welded.

In Wirsbo class, we were given swivel reamers, indicating even PEX needs reaming.

Personally? I ream every cut and flush the chips out- especially thoroughly with refrigeration lines. (I'd imagine you guys have to really flush for new shower valves with thermostatic or pressure balance cartridges.)

Thanks Again for taking time to reply Breplumb.
Paul
 
I am guilty of not reaming all pipes. Steel pipes I always have. M copper I did due to it crushing easier. But for domestic water supply I only use L. I rarely do it for L copper. As far as pvc I only took the burs off.
 
From Dmmsr: Steel pipes I always have
It's fun to shove the threading machine's reamer cone into the end of the pipe, isn't it? (So much fun that I've over-reamed. Oops!)
 
I was told that not reaming copper causes turbulance and will eventually lead to pin hole leaks. I mostly ream is I got a dull cutter or have to saw a pipe but if I have a clean cut and the pipe isnt pushed into itself the solder joint fills nicely ( I use more solder than I should to make sure I have no leaks and they hold tight. I do scuff the pipes well, flux and do the job. never had an issue my first house I completely re-plumbed 35 years ago and still no issues ( I know the buyers )
 
Many decades ago, I did a plumbing apprenticeship & got my Journeyman's. (I'm not a plumber by trade.) I was sternly taught to always ream pipe ends to remove the burr. The burr would make a place for minerals to build up.

This applied to copper tubing, iron pipe, stainless and brass. The only exception was cast iron soil pipe got the edges cleaned with a grinder unless it was bell-and-spigot. Those got left as-cut.
PVC was just becoming acceptable and we did not touch on it in school.

I sometimes watch house fixing TV shows and never see the plumber ream pipe. Even the guy on This Big Budget show (This Old House) doesn't ream. Also, at work, only the older plumbers and hydronic guys ream pipes & copper tubing.

Do you guys remove the burr inside a pipe after it's cut? Just curious.
Yes i ream my pipes, even the gas pipe.
Its also in the uniform plumbing code to ream the pipe. I've cut out many hot water lines with pin hole leaks.
Please ream your pipes
 
Jumping into this conversation about reaming pipes. The whole plumbing world seems pretty complex, but learning these little details like reaming to prevent future problems sounds valuable.
 
Many decades ago, I did a plumbing apprenticeship & got my Journeyman's. (I'm not a plumber by trade.) I was sternly taught to always ream pipe ends to remove the burr. The burr would make a place for minerals to build up.

This applied to copper tubing, iron pipe, stainless and brass. The only exception was cast iron soil pipe got the edges cleaned with a grinder unless it was bell-and-spigot. Those got left as-cut.
PVC was just becoming acceptable and we did not touch on it in school.

I sometimes watch house fixing TV shows and never see the plumber ream pipe. Even the guy on This Big Budget show (This Old House) doesn't ream. Also, at work, only the older plumbers and hydronic guys ream pipes & copper tubing.

Do you guys remove the burr inside a pipe after it's cut? Just curious.
Yes I try to always ream and or debur the pipe.
First- Its required by code-
UPC 2024- Code section
309- workmanship.
309.3 Burred Ends.
Burred ends of pipe and tubing shall be reamed to the full bore of the pipe or tube, and chips shall be removed.

Also, that lip of not deburring the pipe will cause turbulence, and any system with a recirculating hot loop, that can lead to premature failure and pin hole leaks.
 
I have been for many years. When i got in the trade in the late 80's, I was taught to ream/deburr all pipe. I still have a set of old swivel reamers, they have to be 30 years old. I see it more now with the ridgid tool for reaming inside and out, especially with the press piping.
 
I actually bought a inner and outer reamer just for the purpose of using a propress fitting. Got tired of filing the edges.







got tired of filing the edges.
 
Jumping into this conversation about reaming pipes. The whole plumbing world seems pretty complex, but learning these little details like reaming to prevent future problems sounds valuable.
It makes sense that taking those extra steps upfront can save headaches (and money!) down the line. Although, is reaming pipes something most homeowners can tackle themselves, or is it best left to the professionals? I hear , the average annual salary for a plumber is $24.74 per hour according to some sites.

For minor tasks, is DIY plumbing a cost-effective option, or is the risk of messing something up too great? Would love to hear some thoughts from the experienced folks on the forum! Maybe there's a middle ground – learning some basic maintenance tasks and knowing when to call in a pro for the tougher stuff.
 
It makes sense that taking those extra steps upfront can save headaches (and money!) down the line. Although, is reaming pipes something most homeowners can tackle themselves, or is it best left to the professionals? I hear , the average annual salary for a plumber is $24.74 per hour according to some sites.

For minor tasks, is DIY plumbing a cost-effective option, or is the risk of messing something up too great? Would love to hear some thoughts from the experienced folks on the forum! Maybe there's a middle ground – learning some basic maintenance tasks and knowing when to call in a pro for the tougher stuff.
I bet you won't find any Journeyman plumber for under $30.00 per hour, I don't know any journeyman plumber that will take side work for less than $50 per hour, and thats the low wage journeyman plumber.
Don't trust the sites.I'd say a typical journeyman plumber makes north of $80K annually
 
Probably every plumber that has his own business on this site won't go out to a job for less than a $100.00 an hour. The
big cities alot more.
 
Probably every plumber that has his own business on this site won't go out to a job for less than a $100.00 an hour. The
big cities alot more.
Agreed, but the site he was referring to is most likely looking at wages for a worker.... So i was pointing out that even the lower paid Journeyman plumbers I've met wont come out for less than $50.00 an hour.
For me $100.00 an hour is the good neighbor rate.
 

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