DIYer - Best way to replace leaky valve on end of polybutylene line?

[majesticoj]

PHOTO

The valve on the end of a polybutylene line is leaking and the valve won't come off (I tried dousing the entire thing in WD40, won't budge).

I did some research and it seems I can use a "Shark Bite" on the end of the line but it also seems that many plumbers are against using "Shark Bites"...?

I also found this solution on another forum that involves using a "pex-to-qwest crimp coupling"... I cannot understand the technical language they used to describe the solution (his solution also seems to be specifically for a faucet but I don't think that matters)...

"get a pex-to-qwest crimp coupling. (pex = 3 letters = 3 rings on the fitting; qwest = 5 letters = 5 rings on fitting) Take a 3" piece of pex. crimp on your pex style angle stop (both hot and cold) Now crimp the pex side onto both make-up pieces you should have an angle stop on one side and a pex coupling on the other (if you build the piece before you get under your cabinet, you'll only have two crimps in that tight-ass space). Cut the grey qwest pipe (carefully. don't crush it). Slide your crimp ring onto cold and crimp it in"

Anyhow, I definitely plan to carefully cut the line where it meets the valve as I don't see any other way of removing the valve. I'm going to try to replace the valve with another compression valve and see if that holds...

Any other suggestions?

 

[TomFOhio]

Did you back the the valve up with a wrench and then try getting the nut loose. If you replace the valve you will need
one with a stiffner and a plastic ferrel.

 

[havasu]

WD 40 is not a penetrating oil.

Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster is a penetrating oil.

 

[majesticoj]

Did you back the the valve up with a wrench and then try getting the nut loose. If you replace the valve you will need
one with a stiffner and a plastic ferrel.

Thanks for replying! Okay. I think I understand how the stiffener would be used with a valve but I'm not sure. I'll have to research.

And the replacement valve that I already have has a metal ferrule... But you are suggesting I get a plastic ferrule instead?

I actually cut the polybutylene line (a crude cut using a razor blade) and tried installing the replacement compression valve over the cut end of the supply line. I rubbed a little oil over the end of the supply because I had a lot of trouble slipping the metal ferrule over the line. But even after rubbing on a little oil, the ferrule still had a very hard time sliding back on the line. After pushing the ferrule far back enough and finally getting the valve on the end, I closed the nut over the valve with the ferrule in between. Couldn't screw the nut on all the way (not sure why) but I thought I got it on far enough). Did some final tightening and you can guess what happened after I turned the water back on - valve busted off...

I'm not sure if it was the bit oil I rubbed on the end of the line (it wasn't much but I clearly don't understand how water pressure works). Or maybe it was the sloppy crude end of the supply line that didn't create a "seal" at the back of the inside of the valve when I pushed the line all the way into the valve... *sigh* That was fun...

 

[majesticoj]

WD 40 is not a penetrating oil.

Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster is a penetrating oil.

Understood. Thank you! I actually lost my patience and cut the line at the valve using a (*cringe*) razor blade...

 

[sarg]

Just to mention ..... If your plumbing is PolyB it is best to plan now for conversion to pex. I have the same situation and a tool bag full of the various conversion fittings along with the needed pex tools for future leaks. There are numerous articles available on the web because of the common problem. My choice has been to respond as the leaks occur.

 

[majesticoj]

Just to mention ..... If your plumbing is PolyB it is best to plan now for conversion to pex. I have the same situation and a tool bag full of the various conversion fittings along with the needed pex tools for future leaks. There are numerous articles available on the web because of the common problem. My choice has been to respond as the leaks occur.

View attachment 37208

Ah! Got it! Thank you! That was helpful.

Yes. I'm looking forward to the expensive of replacing those pipes.