I am trying to connect a 3/4 pvc schedule 40 water line to a frost proof hydrant. The hydrant has a brass 3/4 female on the bottom. It's also facing straight down so I will need a 90 degree elbow to line up with the supply. Any help would be appreciated.
Yard hydrant hookup from PVC line
- Thread starter jskiba
- Start date
Help Support Plumbing Forums:
Do you mean CPVC instead of PVC? PVC is not allowed for a water supply line.
It's white schedule 40. I'm not sure if it's cpvc or not. It's a very old supply line on a farm.
I'm just replacing the current hydrant that is completely broken
I don't see a problem, can't you just hook up the new one same as the old? Maybe have to bush up or down a size, but just connect it, they make all kinds of fitting for what you're doing. And, pvc has been used for may years for cold water lines with great success. Any water lines I have ever put in the ground are black poly. My father used that 75 years ago and it's still working fine.
OK, PVC glue is only to be used exclusively for PVC pipes, while CPVC glue bonds both PVC and CPVC pipes. And the male fitting you should be using to mate with the brass female threaded connection should also be a metal, brass or copper. And to assure a leak free connection at that joint, you will need a union.
So, here's my suggestion from Home Depot.
They also have a fitting that appears to be a combined threaded male NPT copper nipple with a union and a CPVC glue joint, but the dimensions don't seem to fit with the dimensions of a CPVC pipe. But you could check it out and see if that would work.
So, here's my suggestion from Home Depot.
They also have a fitting that appears to be a combined threaded male NPT copper nipple with a union and a CPVC glue joint, but the dimensions don't seem to fit with the dimensions of a CPVC pipe. But you could check it out and see if that would work.
Both the International Residential Code (IRC) and the Florida Building Code (FBC) do not have PVC (polyvinyl chloride) pipe on their list of approved water distribution pipe. The building codes make a distinction between water “service” pipe, which means pipe that delivers water to the house, and water “distribution” pipe, which is the pipe inside a house that runs to the plumbing fixtures. Pipe changes from the supply to distribution category once it enters the house and, although PVC is rated for service pipe, it is not rated for distribution.
The reason for not allowing PVC for distribution pipe is that it is not rated to withstand the thermal expansion stress caused by hot water. Even cold water pipe inside a home can end up with hot water in it, because the heat inside a water heater transfers backward through the water in the cold water supply pipe. If you wrapped your hands around both the hot and cold pipes at the top of a water heater, it would difficult to tell them apart based on their temperature near where they penetrate the tank.
But PVC can be used inside the home as drain pipe (also called DWV for drain-waste-vent, which is only under atmospheric pressure), draining the condensate water created by an air conditioning air handler, dryer exhaust venting, and as a flue vent for high-efficiency gas furnaces.
Use this fitting to connect to your new hydrant and pvc solvent welds into the pvc socket. Use pvc fittings as needed to connect to the pvc supply.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Sioux-Chief-646-PG3-3-4-PVC-x-3-4-MIP-MetalHead-Straight-Adapter
Use some one step blue “ rain or shine “ pvc solvent and follow the directions.
If your existing pipe is indeed PVC, you will need a PVC street elbow, and you still may want to add a PVC union.
If the threaded connection leaks after everything is glued, you will need to cut the pipe, glue in a coupling, and continue until the joint doesn't leak.
If the threaded connection leaks after everything is glued, you will need to cut the pipe, glue in a coupling, and continue until the joint doesn't leak.
Thanks Mike, that looks a setup to me. I was worried about the metal to plastic connection but the adapter takes care of that.
Thanks, but the item Twowaxhack showed is also a good approach for the metal to plastic fitting. Just be sure that you use the correct glue for the fittings and pipe. CPVC can be connected to PVC, but only with the correct cement.
