Whole house filters

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DCPlumber

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Professional
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Sep 24, 2011
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Location
Green Bay, WI
Hi,

Who here has a whole house water filter?

What kind of filter cartridge are you using in it?

How often do you change the cartridge and does it look like it is working, however you may want to define it?

Last question, did you get a water sample analysis that showed what was in your water before you decided to put in a filter?

Thank you for sharing.
 
DCPlumber said:
Who here has a whole house water filter?

What kind of filter cartridge are you using in it?

How often do you change the cartridge and does it look like it is working, however you may want to define it?

Last question, did you get a water sample analysis that showed what was in your water before you decided to put in a filter?

Thank you for sharing.
Click to expand...

Are you asking regarding municipal or well water?
 
Either one. Also, if you use a filter for ice cube makers or designated drinking water at the kitchen sink/bar sink, whatever.

Just curious what people are using.

Thanks,
 
Will get back. Will be installing a system in a few days.

SUPPOSEDLY, this system negates point of use filters. Once installed, I will test the water again to see how well it does. If still a little funny, I will use drinking/cooking and ice maker filters. It is on a well and hopefully it won't need shower filters (chlorine being the worst offender I believe).

If you or anyone else knows something that I don't and/or need to know, please chime in. I have been married forty years and not much upsets me anymore... :D
 
:eek: ...forgot...

If one has heavy sediment (well), should a sediment filter be installed before the pressure tank (to prevent fouling the CSV/tank bladder) or does that pose a problem if the filter plugs and the pump works against it?

I plan to use pressure gauges before and after the filtering system to identify any restriction/pressure loss and of course will have a by-pass circuit.
 
I would imagine with if you have a filter before the pressure switch that if the filter plugs the pressure would build until it blows out the filter element, or ruptures the housing, or a pipe/connection.

My $.02
 
I've never installed a filter before the pressure tank, but I've seen it done twice because of such large amounts of sand coming in the well line. Personally, I don't like the idea.
 
Otahyoni said:
I would imagine with if you have a filter before the pressure switch that if the filter plugs the pressure would build until it blows out the filter element, or ruptures the housing, or a pipe/connection.

My $.02
Click to expand...


DCPlumber said:
I've never installed a filter before the pressure tank, but I've seen it done twice because of such large amounts of sand coming in the well line.

Personally, I don't like the idea.
Click to expand...

You guys make sense. Unless there was a by-pass feature (exensive-subject to failure), it could cause some serious problems including burning the pump.

I am on a learning curve here... :D
 
So called "Whole House Filters" are my pet peeve. These things were designed years ago for one faucet. The flow rate through them was somewhere in the one gallon per minute range. Then some genius decided to call them "Whole House Filters" and make a fortune selling cartridges. These things will not remove anything that can harm you except possibly guardia cysts which I doubt seriously you will find in any well. They can't remove iron, calcium, magnesium (hardness) tannin, manganese, sulphur or anything else that is found in water. Only one thing can be removed by them and that's chlorine. For this you need a carbon filter and you can't run the water though it faster than it's design flow rate or you'll push the chlorine through also. Sediment is almost always mineral particles that break loose after accumulating on your plumbing over the years. If not, you have an improperly developed well.

Have your water tested, then save your money to remove something that may be a problem for you. Such as hardness, iron, sulphur gas etc. All of these things require a "REAL" filter, not one of those toy ones.

Sorry, I feel better now. I have ranted yet once again in my quest to do away with these useless things.
 
speedbump,

Either we are not talking about the same thing or you are letting your pet peeve get in the way.

The whole house filters we install have WAY more than a 1 gallon per minute flow. we almost alway install them upstream of our iron filters and softeners because they almost completely eliminate fouling of the injectors, screens and valves of equipment. If I were more technically capable, I'd take pictures of the 7 filters that I removed and discarded today while winterizing houses.

Our filters remove visible sediment from the water. You say that only one thing can be removed and thats chlorine? We are not using GAC filters and they are removing a lot of crud.

Also, we don't install them to protect people's health. We install them because people that own $500K homes, don't want their $500 kitchen sink faucets and lav faucets getting fouled with sediment. In small weekend cottages, whole house filters keep ballcocks and faucets screens from fouling.

Our service area is almost strictly private wells. Until you see what the ground water looks, smellls and tastes like, you won't believe what we're dealing with. We install all pumps below the casing and even on new wells, the water is pretty bad.

I am not a weekend handyman. I am a licensed master plumber. Our customers hold us to high standards. We have to do whatever it takes to keep the equipment performing. If we didn't filter the water, we'd be servicing softener and iron filters every month.

I don't know if you have Culligan in your area or have heard of them, but even they install filters upstream of their equipment.

My filter in my house is due for a change (every 3 months). I haven't serviced my softener since I put it in when we built 4 years ago. If I can learn how to post a picture I will.

I could never say across the board that whole house filters are worthless and don't filter anything except for chlorine. Our do a whole lot more.

Sorry to rant, but they do work excellent for us.
 
speedbump said:
Have your water tested, then save your money to remove something that may be a problem for you. Such as hardness, iron, sulphur gas etc. All of these things require a "REAL" filter, not one of those toy ones.
Click to expand...

What do you consider a "REAL FILTER"?

I have come to realize the GE Whole House filter I originally bought is a piece of junk... :( ... even though the drinking water filter made a huge difference (city water).
 
Either we are not talking about the same thing or you are letting your pet peeve get in the way.
Click to expand...

Actually I have removed a ton of these things. People call us after someone installed one for them. Their complaint is that their water pressure was real bad. Well yeah, the cartridge was plugged. If your actually getting sediment from a well, it's just like I stated in my last post. The well wasn't developed properly or it's a bad well. These so called whole house filters won't remove one tenth of the gunk that a softener or iron filter will. And they can backwash it to waste instead of you having to buy all these cartridges. What plugs up the injectors in iron filters and softeners is the iron itself and those cartridges will not remove clear water iron. It goes right through them.
Sediment does not stick to pipes, iron, sulphur and hardness does. That's what clogs the nozzles.

I have come to realize the GE Whole House filter I originally bought is a piece of junk... ... even though the drinking water filter made a huge difference (city water).
Click to expand...
Probably because your drinking water filter was a carbon filter and it will remove the chlorine which in my opinion makes water taste like soap.
 
Their complaint is that their water pressure was real bad.
Click to expand...

That indicates the filter is working. They did not know a dirty filter (see through reservoir - lowered pressure) indicates a needed filter medium change?

The GE Whole House I bought (before becoming fully informed) does not perform as advertised and the chlorine level is so high here (municipal water) that one needs a snorkel to shower. We used a Brita for years before installing a point of use filter for drinking/cooking water.

Obviously, the sales person/installing plumber is not educating the consumer, possibly to increase future work?

You have never came across a water heater that has its' bottom element covered by particles out of suspension or one that could not be flushed/drained?

If no filter(s) is used, your body becomes the filter.
 
If no filter(s) is used, your body becomes the filter.
Click to expand...
I still strongly disagree. I have seen heaters with gunk in the bottom. Both with filters and without. No difference. Heat makes things that are dissolved in water come out. That's why they are in the bottom of the heater and an inline filter will not catch dissolved solids.

I do agree that some city water has way too much chlorine.

I also agree that the GE whole house filters won't do as advertised.
 
Observing whether or not the flow meter indicator is working, is salt being used, does my water feel soft and is the brine tank water level staying within it's limits without my intervention. Just the basics. It's simple. When someone calls and says that their water feels hard dnad it's not using salt. Usually either the flow meter has failed, the salt is bridged.

We have a lot of problems with sulfur and iron bacteria is our area. It doesn't take long for the screen to become fouled or the injector to get plugged, unless they have a filter installed upstream. That does help.
 
speedbump said:
I still strongly disagree.

I have seen heaters with gunk in the bottom. Both with filters and without. No difference. Heat makes things that are dissolved in water come out. That's why they are in the bottom of the heater and an inline filter will not catch dissolved solids.
Click to expand...

And I respect your knowledge and experience. Still learning here... :D
 
The thread has gone no where near the original question asked, but that's ok with me. Apparently no one other than homes in NE Wisconsin have whole house filters. I've had one since my first home I bought in 1992. We lived in a sandy region and our wash machine screens always plugged with sand. Oh well.........

Since you asked about the sludge in brine tanks.............

Our experience has been that salt pellets tend to "meld" into a bad sludge and some people have really smelly water. When a brine tank gets funky (it's a word, look it up) we suggest that it be dumped and cleaned out. I only use salt crystals and my brine tank looks really good after over 4 years.

But yes, if it's brown and smelly, dump it and start fresh. I've also seen people with salt pellets to the top of their brine tank and the thing is as hard as a rock. Obviously not working properly.

A little personal observation goes a long way.
 
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