Where to install the inlet baffle

[septicinstall]

Folks, working on my septic tank, noticed it does not have an inlet baffle. I am trying to figure out the correct place to install it. I am attaching 3 images. One titled "current" is the current setup. The next one titled "option 1" is to place the inlet baffle right below the 4" access point and right above the "hole" that goes straight down to the bottom of the tank. The next one titled "option 2" is to place the inlet baffle more closer to the walls of the tank and not disturb either the access point of the "hole" that goes straight down. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

[frodo]

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[johnjh2o]

The current setup is fine as long as the inlet doesn't extend beyond the tank entrance.

 

[septicinstall]

Thank you folks, so if I am understanding correctly, there is no baffle required at the inlet? I can tell you exactly what has been happening. The inlet has been "plugging up" with this white crud (I can imagine is grease). I was thinking I either need a baffle at the inlet or..

The other issue "could" be but am not sure that, there could have been the posibility that the pipe going into the tank was cast iron 3" at some point and then replaced with 3" pvc but they did not replace the inlet.

In any case the main issue is this "plugging up" at the entrance of the septic tank and I thought the inlet baffle "T" would help...

 

[Mr_David]

Don't pour grease into the drain.

 

[Matt30]

A baffle will do you no good. Grease and bar soaps always want to return to solid form when they get a chance to sit. Your building drain may have a belly in the pipe before it gets to the tank.

 

[KULTULZ]

Maybe thoroughly read this tech article. It will explain the need for an (correct) inlet baffle -

http://www.pumper.com/editorial/2013/11/not_so_baffling_after_all

A septic tank should have baffles at both the inlet and outlet. The purpose of the inlet baffle is twofold: to direct flow from the house sewer downward into the tank to create a longer detention time for the sewage to allow settling of solids, and to keep the floating scum layer from plugging the inlet pipe.

The white solid(s) you are describing may be soap(s) that will not breakdown due to hard water and congeal, excessive calcium due to no (or defective/mis-calibrated) water softener. Of course you do not dump grease down the drain but washing dishes may allow excess accumulation depending on your diet and how you cook. That is what pumper trucks are for.

 

[septicinstall]

Thanks for the link KULTULZ, I read the info and understand now which seems to be related to the problem I am having. I got some more detailed pictures of exactly what is down there. You will see there is a concrete layer before the water. This layer is inside the tank by the inlet. If I do install a new sanitary tee inlet baffle it would be 4" and also I would run 4" pvc from the inlet baffle to outside the tank about 10 feet and then eventually connect with the 3" current pvc pipe from the house. But question remains for the positioning of the inlet baffle if I should place it directly above the concrete hole that goes down as seen in the new picture or away from it. As you see in the current setup, the current inlet pipe has no baffle and is about 6 inches away from the hole that goes down to the tank. I am still wondering if I should place the inlet baffle sanitary tee right on top of that hole as seen in option 1 or place it away from it how the current inlet pipe is (as seen in option 2)...

 

[KULTULZ]

Please post a down shot photo @ the inlet. There are two types of baffles (according to tank design), one concrete (wall-partition) and the the other a proper PVC baffle (or combination).

Ideally, you want the baffle before the partition wall (and directly under the inspection port for quick monitoring) to keep scum out of the second compartment and the PVC baffle will direct effluent flow towards the bottom of the tank.

Don't forget using an effluent filter @ the exit baffle to prevent nasty floating objects from entering the D-Box/leach field.

 

[septicinstall]

Thanks will do. One thing about the article that I did not understand:

verify there is enough free space between the inlet pipe and the wall baffle to allow free flow of water and solids to the tank

Does anyone have a picture of what this means? I do not understand what that means exactly. Thanks.

 

[KULTULZ]

One thing about the article that I did not understand:

...verify there is enough free space between the inlet pipe and the wall baffle to allow free flow of water and solids to the tank.

Does anyone have a picture of what this means? I do not understand what that means exactly. Thanks.

Below in a diagram of a tank with baffle wall(s) installed. They take place of the PVC baffles. I would rather depend on the PVC myself.

 

[septicinstall]

Thanks KULTULZ, now it makes perfect sense! I kept wondering about the term "wall baffle" and how that would relate to a PVC Sanitary TEE inlet baffle. They are actually referring to a concrete wall baffle like in your diagram. I am trying to see if I can get one of those cheap cameras to show a video of what is inside, will keep you posted.

 

[KULTULZ]

I kept wondering about the term "wall baffle" and how that would relate to a PVC Sanitary TEE inlet baffle. They are actually referring to a concrete wall baffle like in your diagram.

Just to make sure I presented myself somewhat correctly...

The wall baffle(s) illustrated in the diagram in the above post are shown as black, not to be confused with the partition wall creating a two reservoir tank (some designs are only one reservoir).

I keep getting this nagging feeling I didn't offer all that is needed to fully understand what I am trying to describe...

Also notice in the below Ill inspection ports over the PVC baffles if you decide to install them (makes inspection/maintenance much easier).

 

[septicinstall]

Maintain your septic tank system, do not put Greece into it.

Thanks, good advice and already being followed but unfortunately has nothing to do with this thread. Also, I think it would be hard to put a whole country into a septic tank.

 

[Mr_David]

Something I do not understand.

Septicinstall.... Are you sure your drawing is correct?

others may have missed the fact you are describing a hole through a block of concrete to a chamber below.
At first look, I immediately presumed the hole in your drawing was the partition wall.

Seems your question are about where to set the inlet tee in relation to the hole below the tee.

Although I am not a septic aficionado I have never seen a septic set up like the one you have described.