It's still not clear to me , what the best replacement is for the braided supply lines straight thread, that I was thinking about replacing with that type of hose because of the rubber washer seal.
I feel safest with copper supply lines, brass nuts and ferrules. But that is my uneducated choice.
Even plain copper tubing with slide-on gasket ends makes me comfortable.
You can bend them yourself with one of three methods, which vary by tool cost:
A) Lever Bender with a 3/8" slot ($$)
B) Spring Bender ($ for a set).
You slide the spring over the tubing & bend. Then un-twist to remove.
C) Sand (¢).
Pack damp sand tightly in the tubing with a stick or pencil.
Bend by hand.
Tap the tube on a hard surface when done to free up the sand, then dump & rinse.
Any sand works, but "green sand" is ideal. You can get it where they sell pottery or molding supplies. It's also
called "Foundry Sand" and "Casting Sand".
Dry mortar, dry talc, baking soda, fine salt all work.
Anything with sharp, angular edges on the granules or a very fine grind works.
For the laundry machines:
Plan B: There are devices that only allow water to flow into the hoses when the machine is operating, closing s solenoid if a hose breaks or there's another leak. Some even call you on the phone when the machine is operating or if there is a leak. Then you can buy any cheap hose you want & have no worries. A photo of one by Watts Regulator is attached below.
It seems odd that the machine has NPS threads. Hydraulic shops are a good source for adapters to NPT. To garden hose thread, Grainger and McMaster Carr should have something. (Side Note- My Maytag has odd threads, too. Nothing I've ever seen. Made adapters on the lathe to fit GHT hoses)
When I was a kid, it was common to have copper tubing bent in a loop to serve the machine. The ends had 1/2" flare nuts and the faucet and machine had F-NPT to M-Flare adapters. The loop was so the machine could walk and dance with unbalanced loads.
Paul