What type of sewage ejector system would you recommend.

[mrt2]

Hey team,
Total novice here. I plan to install a system to pump only the toilet waste, from a one bedroom cabin, about 140 ft to my septic. Not much lift really in the run, probably 2 feet.
I have seen a couple pre assembled units that look okay but not sure if i need something specific. It will be sitting outside/boxed it but exposed to wet elements on the coast.

Ive seem the liberty pumps and also the little giant units.
any advice would be awesome thanks

 

[Bird Doo Head]

The plumbers here will know more than I about residential pumps, so let their comments over-rule mine. But for what it's worth:

When managing the skilled trades & mechanical infrastructure for a large corporation, we used a lot of Zoeller. Some systems were smaller and some were huge industrial multi-pump installations. The plumbers and service electricians liked them due to very infrequent service calls. I know a few people who switched to Zoeller residential sewage ejector (and sump) pumps after repeat failures from other brands. I'm pretty sure they make small ones to suit your project.

Crane (not the plumbing fixture company) makes Barnes systems and pumps in very small and very large range. One may suit your needs.

About 5 or 6 years ago, I installed one of Crane's Barnes EcoTrans Omni Grind Plus grinder pump systems to build a pressurized sewage system. This was at a friend's year-round island house to pump the whole house's sewage. The discharge pipe went underground across the island, under the lake bottom, up a road and to the mainland municipal system. The run was over 1 mile and the lift was about 142 feet in the run. I think flow was specified at 10 gpm at 75 PSI. The basin was quite compact.

They haven't had any problems in summer or winter. Also, EPA & the state DNR approved the Barnes with no problems. (Piping under the lake is what got them involved.)

Personally, I was impressed with the pump's construction and with the controls. The control is electro-mechanical (No IC's or other electronics) so anybody's off-the-shelf relay or breaker can be installed if one ever fails.

Crane also makes very small pre-packaged Barnes residential systems for quick installation. One may be the size you need. (I think Zoeller does, too.)

I hope this helps you choose,
Paul

 

[mrt2]

The plumbers here will know more than I about residential pumps, so let their comments over-rule mine. But for what it's worth:

When managing the skilled trades & mechanical infrastructure for a large corporation, we used a lot of Zoeller. Some systems were smaller and some were huge industrial multi-pump installations. The plumbers and service electricians liked them due to very infrequent service calls. I know a few people who switched to Zoeller residential sewage ejector (and sump) pumps after repeat failures from other brands. I'm pretty sure they make small ones to suit your project.

Crane (not the plumbing fixture company) makes Barnes systems and pumps in very small and very large range. One may suit your needs.

About 5 or 6 years ago, I installed one of Crane's Barnes EcoTrans Omni Grind Plus grinder pump systems to build a pressurized sewage system. This was at a friend's year-round island house to pump the whole house's sewage. The discharge pipe went underground across the island, under the lake bottom, up a road and to the mainland municipal system. The run was over 1 mile and the lift was about 142 feet in the run. I think flow was specified at 10 gpm at 75 PSI. The basin was quite compact.

They haven't had any problems in summer or winter. Also, EPA & the state DNR approved the Barnes with no problems. (Piping under the lake is what got them involved.)

Personally, I was impressed with the pump's construction and with the controls. The control is electro-mechanical (No IC's or other electronics) so anybody's off-the-shelf relay or breaker can be installed if one ever fails.

Crane also makes very small pre-packaged Barnes residential systems for quick installation. One may be the size you need. (I think Zoeller does, too.)

I hope this helps you choose,
Paul

Thanks for the info!
Had a look at the Zoeller units they look solid and similar to the little Giant units I saw.
What would the min Hp pump I need?
So 4 inch sewage line will enter and then it’s says 2 inch discharge
Can I carry on with 2 inch all the way to house hook up or should I increase back to 3-4inch ?
Cheers

 

[mrt2]

Thanks for the info!
Had a look at the Zoeller units they look solid and similar to the little Giant units I saw.
What would the min Hp pump I need?
So 4 inch sewage line will enter and then it’s says 2 inch discharge
Can I carry on with 2 inch all the way to house hook up or should I increase back to 3-4inch ?
Cheers

I sent some pics
Currently there is 2 inch entering the house main 4 inch discharge
This was already in place when we bought the house..that white 2 inch is actually in used and disappears in the foundation
Could I technically just T into the existing white 2 inch and I wouldn’t have to mess with the house main

 

[Twowaxhack]

You want a 2” solids sewage pump, not a grinder for a septic system.

 

[mrt2]

You want a 2” solids sewage pump, not a grinder for a septic system.

Cheers and 2 inch discharge all the way to septic hook up is normal?1/2 Hp pump?

 

[DFBonnett]

FWIW, I used a Myers SRM-4 when doing the basement bath in 1990. Still going strong.

 

[Twowaxhack]

I also use Myers pumps.

 

[Bird Doo Head]

You want a 2” solids sewage pump, not a grinder for a septic system.

For learning, why isn't a grinder pump used for septic? Is it because the small bits will wash into the leach field?
Thanks for explaining,
Paul

 

[mrt2]

For learning, why isn't a grinder pump used for septic? Is it because the small bits will wash into the leach field?
Thanks for explaining,
Paul

Thanks for explaining
So it’s normal to discharge with 2 inch all the way to septic without it being grinded?

 

[CottageLife]

Like others have already stated you don’t want a grinder pump, it can lead to a shortened leaching field life as the solids are small and more prone to not settle out. A 4/10 hp Liberty effluent pump should easily handle your needs. I assume you are planning on a pump tank, I use a 90 gallon at my cottage and pump about 160’ to the main septic tank. Your 140’ of 2” line will hold about 23 gallons of effluent. You don’t use a check valve on the pump outlet so you will need sufficient tank capacity to prevent your pump from cycling when the 23 gallons flows back. If you don’t already have one you should install a filter on your tank outlet so that solids don’t make their way into your leach field (this is needed when you pump to your septic tank).

 

[mrt2]

Like others have already stated you don’t want a grinder pump, it can lead to a shortened leaching field life as the solids are small and more prone to not settle out. A 4/10 hp Liberty effluent pump should easily handle your needs. I assume you are planning on a pump tank, I use a 90 gallon at my cottage and pump about 160’ to the main septic tank. Your 140’ of 2” line will hold about 23 gallons of effluent. You don’t use a check valve on the pump outlet so you will need sufficient tank capacity to prevent your pump from cycling when the 23 gallons flows back. If you don’t already have one you should install a filter on your tank outlet so that solids don’t make their way into your leach field (this is needed when you pump to your septic tank).

I was not planning on a pump tank. Could you elaborate more on this.
I figured the pump basin itself would be enough capacity to handle just the toilet waste and then pump straight to septic?
Why would the 23 gallons flow back and could I use a check valve?

 

[mrt2]

Like others have already stated you don’t want a grinder pump, it can lead to a shortened leaching field life as the solids are small and more prone to not settle out. A 4/10 hp Liberty effluent pump should easily handle your needs. I assume you are planning on a pump tank, I use a 90 gallon at my cottage and pump about 160’ to the main septic tank. Your 140’ of 2” line will hold about 23 gallons of effluent. You don’t use a check valve on the pump outlet so you will need sufficient tank capacity to prevent your pump from cycling when the 23 gallons flows back. If you don’t already have one you should install a filter on your tank outlet so that solids don’t make their way into your leach field (this is needed when you pump to your septic tank).

would this tank take out the need for an extra 'pump tank"?the only odd thing with this one is the inlet size says 2 inch. I thought it would be 4 inch coming in from the toilet? seems like this is similar to the liberty or little giant..

 

[CottageLife]

I’m not an expert on this but I have been told not to put a check valve on a sewage pump outlet line, the reasons I was told were due to it being a restriction, a blockage point, and unless your line is fully buried below the frost table there is a freezing risk.

(I previously called it an effluent pump which is wrong, I should have referred to it as a sewage pump)

 

[mrt2]

I’m not an expert on this but I have been told not to put a check valve on an effluent pump outlet line, the reasons I was told were due to it being a restriction, a blockage point, and unless your line is fully buried below the frost table there is a freezing risk.

Can you tell me more about the need 90 gallon tank in Addition to the liberty pump basin

 

[Twowaxhack]

Can you tell me more about the need 90 gallon tank in Addition to the liberty pump basin

Just buy a prepackaged system and call it a day.

 

[CottageLife]

Can you tell me more about the need 90 gallon tank in Addition to the liberty pump basin

I’m by no means saying this is what you need for your application, I’d suggested getting a professional to look at it. Just to clarify my 90 gallon tank is my pump basin.

To answer your question here is the explanation for my 90 gallon tank. The pumps can’t run dry so in my case there always has to be a minimum of 10 gallons of sewage in the tank. The pump is set to come on when an additional 45 gallons of sewage enters the tank. So when the pump activates there is 55 gallons of tank capacity used. So that gives me a 35 gallon buffer to cover for power outages or a pump failure. When my pump shuts off at the 10 gallon minimum there will be 25 gallons of back flow from my line, putting me at 35 gallons nominal capacity used.

Maybe the small pre-packaged tank will work fine for your application. Also if you have a look at the pre-packaged system there should be a gasket that comes with it that is used when you cut a hole in the side of the tank for your 3-4” drain line. The top holes are for your discharge and vent line.

 

[Bird Doo Head]

On the market are toilets that have pumps built in. Perhaps one of these is an easy solution to your situation. But, hopefully the plumbers experienced with those will advise if that's a viable plan or a bad idea.
Paul

 

[mrt2]

Okay that’s what I figured but I am not a plumber by any means..is a 2 inch discharge pvc line to the house septic normal?

Just buy a prepackaged system and call it a day.

If i were t put this outside. I would bury it of course with the lid accessible. Should i try and insulate it or box it in?I am on the west coast of van island so not super cold temps but it does freeze overnight in the winter.

 

[Twowaxhack]

2” outlet is normal for a 2” solids sewage pump.

You’ll have to make sure it doesn’t freeze