Wall hung toilet replacement

[friedfishy]

Hello

I am quite a noob when it comes to plumbing and hoping someone can help guide me to the rights part needed to make this replacement toilet a success.

I had an old wall mounted toilet - it was in bad shape - flusher system sucked, the bowl had leaking issues and just looked extremely rough. All in all it had to go, and it's gone now.

I want to replace the toilet with the American Standard Glenwall Vormax Elongated toilet. According to that spec sheet, my carrier bolts (not planning to replace old carrier) line up perfectly with the requirements for the new toilet. I can't tell if the drain will line up, but after asking a couple of people it seems like they should be fine if the bolts are fine. I'm hoping this is correct?

My next problem is that the wall is being finished with drywall (was thin cedar planks before) and the flange from the carrier will actually be in between the drywall - not out 1/2 inch from the finished wall. According to the installation video; it should look like this: (I think its saying to come out 1/2 inch based on the photo - it doesn't actually say exactly - so does it matter?)



I'm wondering how I can get my current drain out further. Whether its an extension; gaskets or replacing the flange (if possible). I use the word flange lightly; as I'm unsure if that's what is coming out from the wall carrier. It looks like one but from what I read a lot of wall hung toilets didn't use flanges - so I apologize if if its some sort of pipe nipple or otherwise referred.

Here is a pic of what I have:


As you can see the flange like piece comes out from the carrier. The lip on it is about 4 1/2 inches and appears to be copper based. It then attaches past the carrier to a copper elbow, which goes into my cast iron stack after the elbow. The flange looks to be soldered to the copper elbow (I think just at the top of it as the bottom would be impossible to access). The inside of the flange (pipe size) is 3 inches.



I'm hoping someone can direct me how I can get the flange to come out further (1/2 inch?) from my finished wall. Or is there a series of gaskets I can use through the wall to make up for it (like a thicker neoprene gasket for example). Or can I remove the current flange by unsoldering it (I'm guessing it might be hard to actually remove?) and replace it with something else?

Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated. I apologize for any ignorance within my post as I said I am quite a newbie.

Thank you
-ff

 

[friedfishy]

Curios, can I just bridge the gap by using something like this:

 

[arctic bill]

If i remember correctly on wall mount toilets there is an adjustment of how far out of the wall the connection protubes .

 

[friedfishy]

I don't think mine has that, and the connection is soldered to the elbow behind it, so it wouldn't move?

 

[Geofd]

Use a neopreme gasket then cut another in half I have had to do that in a few instances

 

[JG plumbing]

They do make enhanced gaskets.

Normally your horn would be threaded and would be finely adjusted, after it's cut to length, by threading. Yours isn't very modern.

I would try an enhanced gasket before I tried using two.

I wouldn't use the thing you pictured above.

I would let the toilet sit in the same spot it was before and cut the wall finish around it.

 

[FishScreener]

Looking at your pictures: What is the lock screw on top of your pipe.. I’m guessing that undoing that screw will allow the spud to turn and adjust in and out on a screw thread.

But, It also looks like things have bit of corrosion and gunk on them, and it will be nigh impossible to turn, and you will need a couple of cans of penetrating oil to get it moving. Slow steady pressure one way and then the other will probably do it, coupled with penetrating oil, and a propane torch To heat things up. heat the fitting, then apply penetrating oil, then turn. If that isn’t working, you might be able to pop the threads loose by heating the body with the torch, and then applying some dry ice to the inside of the adjustable tube.

 

[friedfishy]

@FishScreener I was wondering too about that screw; and I think it might work, but the piece that connects to the elbow secured by that screw is soldered to the elbow behind it by the looks of it, so would I not have to desolder and try that? The screw turns just fine but the piece doesnt budge.

@JG plumbing Can you give me some examples of the enhanced gaskets you are referring too? Curious why you wouldn't try using the item I pictured above - do you think it would make a good seal?

I also considered using double neopreme gaskets and cutting one but figured it might be hard to cut one perfectly and doubted the seal it would make if that was the case?