type "L" copper elbows
- Thread starter lamothe1
- Start date
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volleti is right...use type k it comes in a roll also otherwise by my states code you are require to braze
If you buy a large enough roll then you don't have to put any fittings underground.
"no solder joints underground" Why? I need to cut out about 2 ft of exiting water supply and lower it because it is in the way of the new 3" waste. i'm going to cut out 2', add 90 deg elbows to reroute under the new waste and back up to tie into the existing 3/4" supply line. in other words it will be kinda like a "U" shape. if it's a corrosion problem can I seal the pipe with something like Henry's roofing cement or Fiberglass resin, etc.?
You can use underground compression fittings. You can use flare fittings also but will be harder to do.
ExtraMilePlumbing
Well-Known Member
In california, we install solder joints for under ground all the time with type l copper,code approved. Brazed is required only on slap
I thought copper only had to be brazed under slab and copper for water service through the yard can be soldered .
I agree, these other guys had me thinking I was doing it wrong for 25 years.
If you were in Michigan you would have been doing it wrong. Each state is there own little world.
Try doing it where I live, you would be pulling it out of the ground. Plus it has to be K copper here.
Ricky and Extra are right for Calif. You only have to braze if under slab of building.
okay to solder joints if under exterior concrete like driveways, sidewalks, or patios.
They braze them under building slabs because the are a stronger joint.
Often when repairing old pipe under slab, the pipe is corroded and IF you can get it clean enough to solder, might not survive the heat required to braze it.
As far as fittings go, the quality of fittings that seem to be coming from the supply house are getting thinner and poorer quality.
okay to solder joints if under exterior concrete like driveways, sidewalks, or patios.
They braze them under building slabs because the are a stronger joint.
Often when repairing old pipe under slab, the pipe is corroded and IF you can get it clean enough to solder, might not survive the heat required to braze it.
As far as fittings go, the quality of fittings that seem to be coming from the supply house are getting thinner and poorer quality.
I think I have it figured out. Ill get two 45 deg sharkbite elbows, connect one end to the copper pipe . then loop the ¾ pex flexible pipe down below the new ABS waste then back up the other side and connect to the copper pipe kinda like I show in the photo. also I live in southern calif
ExtraMilePlumbing
Well-Known Member
Lol , thats like the worst plan ever,pex(unprotected)and shark bites dont belong underground. Find away to solder it
Per Sharkbite website:
Q: Can PEX be used under a concrete slab?
A: Yes, PEX pipe can be installed under a concrete slab. Since PEX pipe is supplied in coils, installation can be completed in one continuous length without the need for extra fittings. PEX pipe can also be encased within a slab, which is commonly used for radiant floor heating. In cases where PEX pipe penetrates a concrete slab, it must be protected with a nonmetallic sleeve at the penetration point.
Q: Are SharkBite fittings approved for underground use?
fittings are certified for underground applications. Fittings should be wrapped with an impervious material, chloride-free tape or tightly wrapped and sealed insulation works well to prevent direct contact with the backfill.
Q: Can PEX be used under a concrete slab?
A: Yes, PEX pipe can be installed under a concrete slab. Since PEX pipe is supplied in coils, installation can be completed in one continuous length without the need for extra fittings. PEX pipe can also be encased within a slab, which is commonly used for radiant floor heating. In cases where PEX pipe penetrates a concrete slab, it must be protected with a nonmetallic sleeve at the penetration point.
Q: Are SharkBite fittings approved for underground use?
fittings are certified for underground applications. Fittings should be wrapped with an impervious material, chloride-free tape or tightly wrapped and sealed insulation works well to prevent direct contact with the backfill.
It doesnt matter what they say. You need to check your code for approved piping and connections. They are going to tell you there stuff can be used in space if it gets you to buy it. That also looks like under a slab in a dwelling. You have it open why would you not do it correctly.