oakumboakum
Active Member
Back in 2016 I noticed that the drain trip lever in the upstairs bathtub was not stopping the water. The bucket was rusted onto the tee assembly. I went into the attic and found the bathtub was completely enclosed by framing. I cut out a small section of 1"x 6" framing and was able to get into the small area and access the bathtub plumbing. A small section of the floor was cut out for the bathtub plumbing. Unfortunately, the tee was too far beneath the floor. I couldn't get a wrench on the tee nut for the trap and the tee nut for the shoe. I realized that I would have to cut the ceiling drywall to replace the shoe and tee. I didn't want to do that so I was resigned to have a non-working drain trip lever in the upstairs bathtub.
Last year my nephew told me that the drywall ceiling under the bathtub was blackening. I suspected that the cartridge in the shower/tub valve was leaking. I replaced the cartridge and the leak stopped. My nephew, his wife, and child moved into their first home shortly afterwards so I left the ceiling replacement for a later date.
This year I replaced the resin in the water softener and the house once again had soft water. I decided it was time to replace the damaged tee, overflow and the shoe. I cut out a small section of the drywall ceiling and unscrewed the bathtub drain part and removed the two overflow pipe screws. I cut the existing shoe and loosened the lower tee nut. I was able to lift the tee and overflow pipe off the ABS pipe. I installed the shoe and overflow onto the tee and lowered the assembly onto the ABS pipe. The shoe was too long so I cut off 1/4". I had to go upstairs and check to see if the drain was centered in the bathtub drain hole. Shoe was still too long. I cut another 1/4" off and checked for placement. Shoe was still too long so I make a third cut of 1/4". This time the shoe was centered under the bathtub drain hole. I installed the new Everbilt drain with putty and screwed it in.
Next I went into the small enclosed area to line up the overflow pipe with the bathtub. I couldn't believe that the overflow pipe wasn't long enough. I needed a 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" coupler. I left to go home and finish the installation for another time. I bought the coupler from a plumbing supply parts store and two weeks later I was back. I screwed the coupler onto the upper tee and screwed the overflow piple onto the coupler. Everything was installed so I tightened the new 1-1/2" ABS nut onto the ABS pipe. I tightened the shoe nut onto the tee. I went into the bathtub and put the bucket and linkage into the overflow pipe. I made an adjustment to the linkage and connected it to the trip lever. I added water and checked for stoppage. I also went downstairs and checked for leaks. I saw water dripping from the drain so I tightened the drain. After I was satisfied with the bucket stopping the water, I tightened the two overflow screws and installed the drain cover. I added more water to the bathtub and pulled the lever up. I went downstairs to check for leaks and saw none. I finally had a working drain trip lever.
In 2016 I tried to install a new toe tap drain but the old 1976 shoe thread was incompatible. The new shoe's thread is the exact thread needed for the toe tap drain but I wanted to install the trip lever with bucket.
I took some pictures showing the enclosed bathtub, old tee and shoe, and new Everbilt shoe, tee, and overflow parts.
Last year my nephew told me that the drywall ceiling under the bathtub was blackening. I suspected that the cartridge in the shower/tub valve was leaking. I replaced the cartridge and the leak stopped. My nephew, his wife, and child moved into their first home shortly afterwards so I left the ceiling replacement for a later date.
This year I replaced the resin in the water softener and the house once again had soft water. I decided it was time to replace the damaged tee, overflow and the shoe. I cut out a small section of the drywall ceiling and unscrewed the bathtub drain part and removed the two overflow pipe screws. I cut the existing shoe and loosened the lower tee nut. I was able to lift the tee and overflow pipe off the ABS pipe. I installed the shoe and overflow onto the tee and lowered the assembly onto the ABS pipe. The shoe was too long so I cut off 1/4". I had to go upstairs and check to see if the drain was centered in the bathtub drain hole. Shoe was still too long. I cut another 1/4" off and checked for placement. Shoe was still too long so I make a third cut of 1/4". This time the shoe was centered under the bathtub drain hole. I installed the new Everbilt drain with putty and screwed it in.
Next I went into the small enclosed area to line up the overflow pipe with the bathtub. I couldn't believe that the overflow pipe wasn't long enough. I needed a 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" coupler. I left to go home and finish the installation for another time. I bought the coupler from a plumbing supply parts store and two weeks later I was back. I screwed the coupler onto the upper tee and screwed the overflow piple onto the coupler. Everything was installed so I tightened the new 1-1/2" ABS nut onto the ABS pipe. I tightened the shoe nut onto the tee. I went into the bathtub and put the bucket and linkage into the overflow pipe. I made an adjustment to the linkage and connected it to the trip lever. I added water and checked for stoppage. I also went downstairs and checked for leaks. I saw water dripping from the drain so I tightened the drain. After I was satisfied with the bucket stopping the water, I tightened the two overflow screws and installed the drain cover. I added more water to the bathtub and pulled the lever up. I went downstairs to check for leaks and saw none. I finally had a working drain trip lever.
In 2016 I tried to install a new toe tap drain but the old 1976 shoe thread was incompatible. The new shoe's thread is the exact thread needed for the toe tap drain but I wanted to install the trip lever with bucket.
I took some pictures showing the enclosed bathtub, old tee and shoe, and new Everbilt shoe, tee, and overflow parts.
