Toilet vent?

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A lot of DIYers don't have a Hole Hawg Right Angle drill or a 3" self-feed bit.

You wouldn’t need a right angle drill and you’d only need a 2-9/16 bit for 2” pipe. Just a hole saw, no self feed.

Plenty of room there to get a regular drill. Once the pipe is out of the way it would be easy to drill to the left into the cavity with the pipe.
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I’d probably reduce the shower vent to 1.5”
And I'm with BD1, who said he doesn't "have a ton of experience" with plumbing. I would not ask him to go out and purchase ABS pipe and fittings, scrap some/all of what is there, and have him drill a hole with 3/32 of an inch clearance around the pipe. He's obviously more experienced with carpentry, so his plan of leaving the plumbing as is gives him the best answer for his issue. A good general contractor would do the same thing 90% of the time just to keep from involving another craft at this point.
 
A 2” sch 40 pipe takes a 2 9/6” hole, that’s plumbing 101. You don’t need a ton of plumbing experience to run some AbS vent.....

Scraping what’s there is easier and less expensive than buying 2x6 and 2x4 notching it all. Then building fur downs and then drywalling it all.

He could build a standard wall out of 2x4 with my direction and only have 3 holes to drill.

I’m giving sound plumbing advice.

You don’t have to agree with it, I’m not advising you.

This is a plumbing forum.
 
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Some members here must think the advice I give is only read by the creator of the thread.

That’s not the case, many people read the thread and relate it to their project.

So even if the original poster doesn’t take my advice, others may choose to learn how a professional plumber would do the job.

DIY’r giving DIY advice is fine and I encourage it but a professional plumbers perspective is what this forum needs to balance that out.
 
A 2 9/16 hole will leave a 3/32 inch clearance around a 2" ABS pipe, that's mathematics. Not much room error for a DYIer!

Yes, this is a plumbing forum for DIYers as well as professionals. But sometimes the best advice to a DIYer's plumbing issue does not involve actual plumbing, as in this case. Looking at the issue BD1 has with the myopic view of just a professional plumber leaves out better solutions for some DIYers, and that helps balance out this forum as well.

One of your earlier suggestions was to build a "double stud wall", which wouldn't work because of the existing rough-in for the toilet. So, it seems a little humorous to me to later say, "Scraping what’s there is easier and less expensive than buying 2x6 and 2x4 notching it all."

And as I am a Registered Professional Engineer with over 48 years of experience, 40 of which were in project management, so I tend to look at the big picture to resolve an issue with the best approach based on who is involved and the information provided. DIYers, professionals, and all those that "read the thread and relate it to their project", should step back a look at any issue they face and consider options that may be outside their profession or expertise. They may just discover an easier, quicker, better solution to their problem. That is "problem solving 101"!
 
Doing what I’ve suggested would be cheaper and easier than notching lumber that’s over sized for the top and bottom plate and then using twice the 2x4’s.
Then building a furr down, drywalling it, painting it.


A 2 9/16” hole is what size hole people who actually do the work use for 2” pipe. That’s plumbing 101 all day everyday.

I’ve never said that every answer I’ve posted will be 100% accurate as this is a forum that I donate my time and experience to.

Being an engineer doesn’t make you a plumber or experienced in installing pipe. That’s obvious though. I could easily knit pick your posts as they contain many oversights, because you’re not a home builder or a plumber or a carpenter......you write things down as a profession.
 
I could careless which advice the OP takes. It’s his choice.

But now he has choices.

Others reading the thread have choices.

There is a plumbing solution and I provided it.
 
Doing what I’ve suggested would be cheaper and easier than notching lumber that’s over sized for the top and bottom plate and then using twice the 2x4’s.
Then building a furr down, drywalling it, painting it.


A 2 9/16” hole is what size hole people who actually do the work use for 2” pipe. That’s plumbing 101 all day everyday.

I’ve never said that every answer I’ve posted will be 100% accurate as this is a forum that I donate my time and experience to.

Being an engineer doesn’t make you a plumber or experienced in installing pipe. That’s obvious though. I could easily knit pick your posts as they contain many oversights, because you’re not a home builder or a plumber or a carpenter......you write things down as a profession.
Look Twowaxhack, I don't want to get into a contest with you on your expertise which is plumbing, and I definitely am NOT knit picking your posts. I'm just trying to clarify positions. And apparently you do not understand what an engineer or a project manager does. Some nerdy engineers may just "write things down as a profession" but that is not who I am.

I am not your typical nerdy engineer. I grew up in a welding and machine shop. I could stick weld in the third grade, my dad finally purchased a MIG welder when I was in high school, and a TIG welder later when I was working in the Petro-Chemical Industry. I am proficient at all those welding processes as well as running lathes and milling machines. My grandfather also had a dairy farm and raised black angus bulls. So, I've always worked and gotten my hands dirty 7 days a week. I've compiled hundreds of contracts and spent thousands of hours in the field overseeing construction activities.

Building a small soffit over the lavatory with a couple of can lights is extremely easy for any carpenter, or a DIYer who "fully renovated a stilted beach house". It's apparent that BD1's forte is more carpentry related than plumbing related.

I'll take your word that a professional plumber uses a 2 9/16" drill for 2" pipe. But I'm absolutely sure that a DIYer would need more than +/- 3/32" accuracy in his hole. It's not easy to move a 2 9/16" hole over 1/2" after it is there, be it with a self-feeding bit or a hole saw.

You say your posts are also to provide information to people besides the original poster as to how your post may relate to their project.

I am doing the same thing as well. Having anyone to step back a look at any issue they face to consider options that may be outside their profession or expertise is sound advice for everyone. So, please allow me to provide information on this forum based on my experience and expertise, engineering and project management.

And please do point out any oversights or misinformation that I may have in my posts. The purpose of this forum is to provide correct information. You have corrected me a couple of times in posts, and I've thanked you for it. Using a sanitee for a toilet inlet to a riser and putting a hot water circulating return line in the water heater drain are a couple. Thanks again for clarifying those errors on my part.
 
Look Twowaxhack, I don't want to get into a contest with you on your expertise which is plumbing, and I definitely am NOT knit picking your posts. I'm just trying to clarify positions. And apparently you do not understand what an engineer or a project manager does. Some nerdy engineers may just "write things down as a profession" but that is not who I am.

I am not your typical nerdy engineer. I grew up in a welding and machine shop. I could stick weld in the third grade, my dad finally purchased a MIG welder when I was in high school, and a TIG welder later when I was working in the Petro-Chemical Industry. I am proficient at all those welding processes as well as running lathes and milling machines. My grandfather also had a dairy farm and raised black angus bulls. So, I've always worked and gotten my hands dirty 7 days a week. I've compiled hundreds of contracts and spent thousands of hours in the field overseeing construction activities.

Building a small soffit over the lavatory with a couple of can lights is extremely easy for any carpenter, or a DIYer who "fully renovated a stilted beach house". It's apparent that BD1's forte is more carpentry related than plumbing related.

I'll take your word that a professional plumber uses a 2 9/16" drill for 2" pipe. But I'm absolutely sure that a DIYer would need more than +/- 3/32" accuracy in his hole. It's not easy to move a 2 9/16" hole over 1/2" after it is there, be it with a self-feeding bit or a hole saw.

You say your posts are also to provide information to people besides the original poster as to how your post may relate to their project.

I am doing the same thing as well. Having anyone to step back a look at any issue they face to consider options that may be outside their profession or expertise is sound advice for everyone. So, please allow me to provide information on this forum based on my experience and expertise, engineering and project management.

And please do point out any oversights or misinformation that I may have in my posts. The purpose of this forum is to provide correct information. You have corrected me a couple of times in posts, and I've thanked you for it. Using a sanitee for a toilet inlet to a riser and putting a hot water circulating return line in the water heater drain are a couple. Thanks again for clarifying those errors on my part.

TL/DR
 
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