Toilet shutoff valve not working

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coplumbo

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Hi there!

I need to replace the fill valve on my toilet, but when I tried to turn the water supply off, I couldn't get it shut off completely. After researching online, it sounds like I need a new shutoff valve. I've never replaced one before, so I watched some videos on YouTube. I know I have a Brasscraft valvve. My question is: Do I need a PIF inlet valve or a nominal compression inlet valve? The difference seems obvious when I look at the valves avaiable on the Home Depot website, but when I look at my valve, it's not obvious to me. I've attached some pictures. Please let me know if I should upload more.

Thanks for the help!
 

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Geofd

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(Just get the same valve at Home Depot or Lowe’s get a normal compression valve
 

Jeff Handy

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1/2 inch copper compression to 3/8 compression outlet, right angle, multi-turn, as opposed to 1/4 turn.

Just get a new Brasscraft valve as I described, and leave the body of your old valve attached to the copper pipe.

Just unscrew the big nut right behind the oval shaped handle, and remove the guts of the old valve.
Wipe out any minerals or crud inside with a rolled up paper towel soaked in vinegar.

Then just take that same new guts from the new valve and screw it into the body of the old valve.
 

WyrTwister

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Our water meter and shut off valve is in the alley . Have shut it off , just about any time I have worked on the water .

I am lazy , I would leave the local shut off valve alone . I recommend FluidMaster float valve ;


I recommend you also get one of the replacement flexible braided water lines , while you are at it .

Not saying replacing the shut off is a bad idea , just that if it is working & not leaking , I would take the lazy approach .

If you do replace the shut off , take several photos and refer to them while at the store .

Best wishes , :)
God bless
Wyr
 

Jeff Handy

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The OP stated that his shut off valve at his toilet is not working.

Yes, photos of his existing valve are a good thing to have when comparing at the big box store, good advice!
 

coplumbo

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Jeff Handy

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That looks like the correct valve, same as you have now.

Option B is to remove the old valve, but leave the big compression nut and brass ferrule attached to the copper pipe.

Clean off any corrosion on the ferrule with some vinegar and a plastic scrubbing pad, rinse with plain water.

Then just remove the big compression nut and ferrule from the new valve, and put the new valve on, attached to the old compression nut.
Crank it down pretty tight, using two wrenches.

I do both procedures, it depends how old or beat up the old valve body looks, or how hard it is to squeeze in to a tight spot under or next to a toilet, or under a sink, etc.

And sometimes I take the ferrule and nut off, or cut the copper stub shorter, and put on a 1/4 turn valve, if a customer asks for that.
Getting the old ferrule off can often be tricky.
 

havasu

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I just replaced two washer valves. I tried the lazy way by leaving the ferrule and back cap. They both leaked after replacement. I used an oscillating saw and it cut right thru the ferrule. A quick sanding and replacing everything. No drips now. I've since bought a ferrule puller, so next one should be easier.

To the OP, I'd go with the quarter turn. Them plastic stems are problematic.
 

Rickyman

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If it were me,I'd replace it with a (similar, but not same) Brasscraft - 1/4-turn ball valve BigBox Link

View attachment 24536
I used those for a little bit but found the cheap plastic stems allow the handle to snap off after a few years of non use/not exercising the valve. I switched back to multi turn valves. Dahl makes sturdier 1/4 turn angle stops but they’re a bit more expensive.
 

Jeff Handy

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FYI to anyone interested.

I have sometimes been able to coax the old ferrule off the copper stub by tapping the compression nut off with a big crescent type wrench, if there is enough room to get a few inches of swing.
And the plumbing in the wall can’t be too wobbly, or you risk breaking a solder joint.
Sometimes works better just tapping directly on the ferrule, with the wrench adjusted to be very close to the pipe diameter.

Obviously, you can also carefully make a cut in the ferrule with a mini hack saw.
 
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havasu

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I've also had luck pushing the cap back, out of the way. Use vice grips, swinging the ferrule back and forth, then pushing it back a bit. Then a bit of sand paper, and the ferrule will slide right off, as well as the back cap. Then another quick sanding to rough up the copper, add new cap and ferrule, cinch it down, and your good to go.
 

coplumbo

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Thanks for all the great tips everyone!

I'm headed to pick up the new valve right now.

I've never shut off the water to my condo before. When I shut off the main incoming water supply, it will obviously shut off the water supply to the water heater. Is there anything I need to do to the water heater before or after I shut off the main supply? Is there anything to shut off? Or do I just shut off the main supply and turn it back on when I'm done?

Thanks!
 

Jeff Handy

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If your condo shut off valve is dedicated to just your unit, you should be ok with just draining and collecting any water that continues to run out of the old toilet supply, until it finally stops.
Sometimes you need to open any nearby faucets on the cold side, to help that line drain quicker.

Your water heater will still be full of water, and I see no reason it can’t just be left alone.

You might have a more complicated situation if other units will also be shut off when yours is shut off.
 

Geofd

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Yeh it depends on what floor your on if you are shutting off the main to multiple apartments and you on a lower floor your gonna have to open a couple of faucets above you and a couple below you along with yours
You also want to make sure you get a positive shut off when you shut it off open a fixture and check the meter
To see if the triangle spins if it doesn’t you ok you may want to ask some questions before you do it there must be a maintanance dept
 
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