Toilet leak

[PlumbMark]

It's a second toilet that is rarely used at the moment.

I noticed a leak in the basement in the summer but didn't confirm where it was coming from.

Today I tested the toilet, and sure enough there is a leak coming from the toilet somewhere.
The leak is making its way to the basement, where I noticed water dripping onto the floor.

I went to the bathroom just now and can confirm it is from the basin somewhere.
There was water at the base of the basin, the floor and also on two plungers sitting under the basin.

I don't think this anything major.
House is 24 years old. Never had a leak from this toilet before.

I guess I have three options:
Call a plumber or a handyman (or maybe fix it myself if you tell me where to look)?

Here are a couple of photos. The toilet (see the dark spots on the tiles where the water is pooling to go to
the basement. And the basement pipe/air duct where the water is finding its way to.

Do you have any suggestions?

 

[Geofd]

Check the bolts that hold the tank and bowl together check the gasket between the tank and bowl, wipe up the door then flush the toilet see it it seeps from the base, replace the wax ri g

 

[PlumbMark]

Check the bolts that hold the tank and bowl together check the gasket between the tank and bowl, wipe up the door then flush the toilet see it it seeps from the base, replace the wax ri g

Thanks I wonder if you could tell me the order of operations I should follow?
It wasn't clear to me.

Also how do I access the gaskets you mention above? There is a tiny gap between the tank and bowl. I don't see how to do this?

Should I turn off the water valve first, then flush the toilet and observe the tank/bowl area?
Should I check the valve at the bottom of the tank? What to look for?

 

[MicEd69]

Thanks I wonder if you could tell me the order of operations I should follow?
It wasn't clear to me.

Also how do I access the gaskets you mention above? There is a tiny gap between the tank and bowl. I don't see how to do this?

Should I turn off the water valve first, then flush the toilet and observe the tank/bowl area?
Should I check the valve at the bottom of the tank? What to look for?

The tank to bowl gasket is where you noted the "tiny gap". The bowl and tank are held together with two screws, the heads of which can be seen by taking the tank off the tank lid. That gasket can develop cracks and leak. Make sure everything is dry and gently move the tank back and forth and see if any water comes out of that joint. If the toilet isn't used much, leaning back against the tank may be causing a cracked gasket to leak.

While there in only a "tiny gap", those gaskets are relatively large as you don't want the porcelain tank to touch the porcelain bowl as they can easily crack. They are relatively easy to change out, but you don't want to overtighten. the screws as you can crack the porcelain. There are gasket kits with the screws, nuts, washers, and gasket available at most hardware or big box stores. They are brand and toilet specific, so know what you have before going to the store. You will need to empty the water out of the tank. Turn off the water to the toilet, flush the toilet, and soak up the remaining water. Then simply unscrew the two screws, lift up the tank from the bowl, clean the surfaces, and then reassemble. The tank is relatively fragile and heavy, so don't drop it on the bowl or the floor.

If this is your problem, and as it is 24 years old, while I had it apart, I would go ahead and invest in a new flush kit.

As you said this was water, and I assume the hose, hose connections, and water valve have all been checked for leaks, this seems the most likely. If it is dirty water, aka sewage, then the wax ring is the most likely culprit.

 

[Twowaxhack]

That’s probably a cheap toilet. I’ve never heard of the name.

Consider replacing the entire toilet, but it most likely can be repaired if it’s not cracked.

 

[MicEd69]

That’s probably a cheap toilet. I’ve never heard of the name.

Consider replacing the entire toilet, but it most likely can be repaired if it’s not cracked.

That appears to be an American Standard model/sub brand sold in Canada. I've never heard of Marina before either.

 

[Twowaxhack]

The tank curve looks like an American standard colony tank use to look. It’s cheap, builder grade.

 

[PlumbMark]

Well I finally have some time now to get to work with this leak problem.
My first task was to shut off the water supply at the toilet and do the 'flush'
to see where the water was leaking from and drain the basin.

However the shut-off valve is totally stuck.

I'm attaching a photo.

What is the best way to go about this?
I know basically what a new valve will look like.

What I need to know is the order of operation to get the two problems fixed now.
- Changing the valve
- Fix the toilet leak

If you could spell out the exact order and how I should proceed I'd appreciate it.

Is it something like this?
1. Turn off all the water supply.
2. Flush the toilet.
3. Buy and then replace the shut off valve.
4. Follow the steps outlined earlier for fixing the leak.

 

[BlueSkyHigh]

Your sequence of events seems a good approach. Probably a silly question but which way were you trying to turn the valve and did you put your back into it?

 

[havasu]

I've had success by slowly rotating the valve in both directions slightly, and often they will free themselves. But, being a simple fix, it is best just to replace. I'd recommend replacing your supply line with a flexible stainless line while you're at the store.

 

[PlumbMark]

Your sequence of events seems a good approach. Probably a silly question but which way were you trying to turn the valve and did you put your back into it?

Good questions!
At first I went clockwise, by hand. When that didn't budge I went counter and it hardly moved as well.
But then there were some water drips.
I managed to stop the dripping.
That was a couple of days ago.

Just now I got out a wrench and went at it again.
Turning clockwise, nothing.
Turning counter-clockwise dripping started, so I stopped right away.

Does clockwise close it and counter open it?
It is open now so I'm confused.

 

[MicEd69]

Righty tighty, lefty loosey.

 

[havasu]

Righty tighty, lefty loosey.

While looking towards the valve

 

[PlumbMark]

Time for an update...

So first up I replaced the water valve with a BrassCraft 'Valve Repair Kit'.
That got my water intake valve working again.

I was going to replace the supply line as recommended by Havasu above
but the Home Depot guy said the kit should do the job (famous last words).

Next I removed the toilet tank and went back to Home Depot to match the screws and
rubber gasket.

Installed that and put the tank back.

Then for the moment of truth, fingers crossed.
Opened the water valve and the tank filled up.
So far so good.

Then flushed the toilet. Looked good for a while.
But when the bowl had filled up all the way and the water stopped,
the dripping started below the tank along the supply line,
Not a flood, but it has to be fixed of course.

So I come back for advice.
Do I buy an appropriate washer or bite the bullet and replace the supply line
with a flexible stainless line?

 

[Twowaxhack]

Time for an update...

So first up I replaced the water valve with a BrassCraft 'Valve Repair Kit'.
That got my water intake valve working again.

I was going to replace the supply line as recommended by Havasu above
but the Home Depot guy said the kit should do the job (famous last words).

Next I removed the toilet tank and went back to Home Depot to match the screws and
rubber gasket.

Installed that and put the tank back.

Then for the moment of truth, fingers crossed.
Opened the water valve and the tank filled up.
So far so good.

Then flushed the toilet. Looked good for a while.
But when the bowl had filled up all the way and the water stopped,
the dripping started below the tank along the supply line,
Not a flood, but it has to be fixed of course.

So I come back for advice.
Do I buy an appropriate washer or bite the bullet and replace the supply line
with a flexible stainless line?

It would be best for you to buy the stainless supply line and install it.

 

[PlumbMark]

Sigh...
I'm still not out of the woods by a long shot.

I bought the stainless supply line and was going to install it now.

Now I have TWO problems!
First, the initial basin leak is back.
It's leaking from the right screw, same as before.
I had replaced both screws and gasket.

Now I'm frustrated on that part alone.

Then I tried to replace the supply line and can't budge the nut that's holding the bottom of
the pipe supply.

Guidance? Maybe call a plumber?

This is a REAL bummer.

One thing I should add. I bought a Fluidmaster Universal tank-to-bowl gasket system kit
on the recommendation on the store clerk.
It had the screws and gasket.

When I looked at the screws at home after taking them out of the package I saw immediately
they were much fatter than the original ones.
I went to the tank and thought at first they wouldn't fit through.
I managed to wiggle both the right and left screws through the holes.
I don't know if that is pertinent or not.

 

[havasu]

Are you referring to the tank to bowl bolts? Did you remember the rubber washer, then the metal washer? Have you checked the tank with a level? Most tighten one side too much and not enough on the other side.
As far as the lower compression nut, are you using pliers? Looking down from above the nut, it should unscrew counter clockwise. Take some pics if this is not what I wrote about.

 

[PlumbMark]

Are you referring to the tank to bowl bolts? Did you remember the rubber washer, then the metal washer? Have you checked the tank with a level? Most tighten one side too much and not enough on the other side.
As far as the lower compression nut, are you using pliers? Looking down from above the nut, it should unscrew counter clockwise. Take some pics if this is not what I wrote about.

Thanks again for helping!

Yes I was referring to the tank to bowl bolts.
I may have messed up. Should I put rubber washer at top followed by metal washer below it (touching)?
I put rubber washer at top, inside tank and metal washer outside the tank where the nut is.
Is that right or wrong?

I used extra elbow grease and managed to get the compression nut loosened.
I've replaced the line with the stainless supply line.

I want to get the tank sorted out first.
Will I need to remove the tank again?
How can I make sure the screw seals will work.
Maybe just pour some water in a see what happens (not flush)?

I checked the level of the tank. It was higher on the right side.
The screw wasn't as tight as the left side.
I tightened it and flushed, but there is still leaking happening from the right screw.

 

[havasu]

Rubber always touches porcelain
If the rubber washer is cut or deformed, get a new one to prevent more leaks.

 

[havasu]

Looking down, you should have the bolt head, then metal washer, then rubber washer, then the base of the tank, followed by rubber washer on the outside, followed by the metal washer, then the nut
Hand tighten, then snug back and forth making the bubble in the level is plumb. Snug, but not too tight, or you'll bust the porcelain.