Thoughts on this drain setup?

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scrib24

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I'm a homeowner trying to tie a new laundry into an existing bath. I had the inspector out for my rough-in inspection and he didn't like the way I laid out the drains/vents. I've made some changes and I'm wondering what some peoples thoughts are. I don't have the room to do what he suggested and I don't want to rip out more tile (or sheetrock from below). My last resort is to flip the tub, but I would really like to avoid that.

Based on the attached photo, does this seem doable?

IMG_6825.jpg
 
That is he ugliest buch of what the hell is it I have ever seen

Is the picture upside down ? or on the edge ? which way do I ???

can you pleas explain what is going on ? is that a tub draining into a vent but not draining down but going up ?

get (4).jpg
 
This is in the the floor (laying horizonal), the top of the picture is the vertical wall.
 
ok, i got it.

cut the floor out on the other side of the joist, install a combonation to the laundry. come thru the hole

use a TEE with a fitting 22'5 in the center, rolled and pointed at that hole threw the floor

install trap



note, you might have to enlarge the hole for the vent so that the 90 fits inside the hole.
i can just about guarantee it, use your saw zall and wood blade

IMG_6825.jpg

tub.jpg
 
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Thanks for the advice, I'm trying to avoid that because on the other side of the joist is tile with heated wire. If I start ripping that out, I'm going to to have to replace the whole tile floor in the bathroom and the heated flooring.
 
how long is that joist span ?

i have an idea, the hole in the joist, where the 90 is.

add another joist, sister the joists together,, cut a 4'' hole in the joist, reach in and cut the pipe, to correct length, so that only the part that goes to the laundry is against the wood.

shower.jpg
 
What about opening the ceiling below?
Does your tub not have an over flow?
Is that why your p-trap is located there?
Is that drain 0nly 1-1\2"? Laundry requires a 2"drain.
 
What about opening the ceiling below?
Does your tub not have an over flow?
Is that why your p-trap is located there?
Is that drain 0nly 1-1\2"? Laundry requires a 2"drain.

Your post made me realize that I was thinking about this all wrong. Here is the tub I'm planning to install:

http://www.us.kohler.com/webassets/kpna/catalog/pdf/en/K-1118-LA_spec.pdf

I think I'm going to plan on just opening up more of the flooring in the bathroom since I plan to retile anyway. I will just have to redo the heated floor. Everything in the picture is 2" pipe. I'll have to move the p-trap location due to the overflow, so if I understand the rough in specs for the tub correctly, I'll need to be at 2-5/16" and 16-7/8" with my p-trap.
 
The p-trap can rotate almost 360 degrees on the trap 90.
so if you had a santee at he wall you would off set it to the side of where the drain is. NEVER directly centered on the tub drain. you would never get the trap in .

imagesCAM75JHR.jpg
 
Well, I tore up more flooring and rerouted things. Here's what I came up with.

IMG_6849.jpg
 
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In CA we have to have a sudsing drain separate from any drainage - 8' before connecting to the drainage. Also the trap for the clothes washer has to be a minimum of 6" above the bottom plate.
I was a residential and commercial plumbing & mechanical inspector in Ohio and CA and your design is a little confusing.
Please read Mr_David and frodos comments as they have good insight. Mr_David is correct about the laundry drainage sizing. Make sure you test for leaks before you close this up. I'd run the washer, with detergent for sudsing, and fill the tub then drain at the same time the washer is dumping.
Watch your trap to vent distance too. Nail plates in the studs for protection when dry-walling when the plumbing is complete.
Good luck.
 
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