Sump pump discharge line

[Randy0002]

I recently discovered a crushed PVC line for our sump's discharge and I'm in the process of replacing the entire line using Schedule 40 PVC. After digging the line I discovered about 6 feet from the downspout/clean-out where it connects the sump's discharge line takes a 90 degree bend UP about 15". (This seems like a newer section of pipe) The discharge from the house is still above this point but I'm curious of this is normal or should be eliminated? If it should be eliminated how shallow can the pipe be to ensure proper grading?
Also, I live in Columbus, OH, should I add an ice guard to the discharge point?
I've attached photos to help show what I'm trying to explain. Thanks for your help!

 

[Jeff Handy]

That whole system looks goofy.

What is up with that Tee right at the house?

 

[Randy0002]

I have an overflow line hooked up to keep some water from leaking out of the crushed discharge pipe.

 

[Jeff Handy]

Ok, as long as that is temporary.

As far as the pipe going straight up, it is likely to freeze at that point.

The whole line has to have a slight pitch downward.
Then ideally it comes out to daylight.

Or it ends in a discharge box or can of some type. With a grill over it.
I usually dig a big hole under that and fill it with about three bags of drain rock.
If the box is likely to freeze, you can set up a winter drain that is shorter and lays on the ground, still needs a slight slope.

Or you can terminate in a bigger dry well, with an overflow on top.

 

[Randy0002]

Jeff - Thanks for your reply. Yes, that line is only temporary. The break occurred at the base of the 90 degree rise, so I suspect freezing may have caused it.

Unfortunately I don't have a lot of depth to play with but if I started a few inches below soil and ensure the grade was pitched downward into the tie in, would that work? This would keep water flowing and not allow any to pool and subsequent freeze, correct?

Thanks again!

 

[Jeff Handy]

Yes, it sounds right.
You want to repipe the deeper line starting at the house, then join the old shallower line.

Or do a whole new line.

I would go at least four inches of soil over the drain, to avoid puncturing it during lawn aeration or casual digging.

I forgot to mention that I drill a bunch of 3/8 inch holes in the bottom of the plastic discharge box, to let water down into the drain rock underneath.
I also surround the drain box with about a six inch band of rock, which connects with the rock underneath.

Sometimes this is all you need even in winter, the drain water soaks into the soil underneath which usually is not frozen.

If your box tends to freeze, you can drop in a little bird bath heater sitting in a shallow pan to keep it underwater, or other low wattage waterproof heaters like heat cable etc, on a gfci of course.

These little heaters tend to die about every three years. Some might last longer.
They usually have a built in thermostat.

You can also get a thermostatic control to plug in your outlet, then plug in the extension cord.
They usually come on at around 35 and off at 40, there are choices for temp range, they are cheap, they are sold to control gutter de-icing cables etc.

If your discharge box heaves out of the ground from freezing, dig it out in spring, and re-bury it as before.
Then pound some metal T posts along two opposite sides, and bolt the box onto them with stainless bolts nuts and fender washers so it can’t push up so easily.

 

[PlumbGate]

How active is the discharge? Does it need to be that far away from the house? Mine runs several times a day discharging 1-2 gallon at a time and I just run it about 10 feet under my deck.

 

[Randy0002]

It's fairly active. We have our dehumidifier draining into it and when it rains there's a steady drip. I'd say it activates every 30min-1hr.