My septic tank feeds a diverter valve, a 4" NDS 575, that can send effluent to either or both of two leach lines. I believe the valve is sending all to one of the two lines and I need to change positions to the other line to rest the overused line.
Problem is that the valve will not turn. I wiggles a few degrees but won't turn anywhere the 90 degree quarter turn I need. The tank pumper told me to oil it and force it or even just pull or drill out the valve's innards to allow free flow to either line. That may work but it will not properly rest the line that is not draining well. I give it some token shots of WD40 and light machine oil but did not drench it and repeat.
The tank was in good shape and I did not send the 'wrong stuff' down the line that I can tell. No filter on this 30 yr old concrete tank and ABS pipes.
I prefer to turn the valve and not to break it in the process since removal for replacement will be quite unpleasant (under a large wooden deck). The valve is 30" long and mostly below surface. The deck is 18" above surface and I have to work between the deck joists on 16" centers.
Due to access and design, the handle of the valve is not convenient to grab and may not be strong enough to allow serious torque. But, I have made a 'handle' with two 2x4s to grab the thin, flat valve handle and to raise the grip up a couple of feet to just above the deck level. I could make a better handle with 2x6s which would allow me to apply more torque. But I could break it if I do not know of a better way to get it loose first.
NDS is not making their staff available. Image of valve attached.
Any ideas out there?
Problem is that the valve will not turn. I wiggles a few degrees but won't turn anywhere the 90 degree quarter turn I need. The tank pumper told me to oil it and force it or even just pull or drill out the valve's innards to allow free flow to either line. That may work but it will not properly rest the line that is not draining well. I give it some token shots of WD40 and light machine oil but did not drench it and repeat.
The tank was in good shape and I did not send the 'wrong stuff' down the line that I can tell. No filter on this 30 yr old concrete tank and ABS pipes.
I prefer to turn the valve and not to break it in the process since removal for replacement will be quite unpleasant (under a large wooden deck). The valve is 30" long and mostly below surface. The deck is 18" above surface and I have to work between the deck joists on 16" centers.
Due to access and design, the handle of the valve is not convenient to grab and may not be strong enough to allow serious torque. But, I have made a 'handle' with two 2x4s to grab the thin, flat valve handle and to raise the grip up a couple of feet to just above the deck level. I could make a better handle with 2x6s which would allow me to apply more torque. But I could break it if I do not know of a better way to get it loose first.
NDS is not making their staff available. Image of valve attached.
Any ideas out there?