Static Drain Test

[DeSotoSteve]

My home's concrete slab foundation is showning signs of movement. A structural engineer has recommended some very costly repairs that involve drilling holes in my slab and pumping pressurized grout into the fill dirt beneath the slab to stabilize it. Before we start this process, he strongly recommends a static drain test.

I'm told the process involves inserting an inflatable drain plug into the clean-out to block the main sewer line. Then, the drain system is filled with water and the level is marked. This can be done either in a shower stall or in a toilet drain (obviously have to remove the toilet and add water). You wait a couple of hours and check to see if the water level has dropped, indicating a leak.

The process seems very straightforward. I was surprised that most of the plumbers I called said they don't perform this service. The few that do, charge anywhere from $500-800!

I am fairly handy and have replaced toilets before. Is there any reason why I can't perform this test myself? I have found online sources for the inflatable plugs. However, I haven't been able to find any instructions on the web for how to conduct this specific test.

I assume I would remove the cover from the outside cleanout, insert the inflatable plug, and inflate it. Then, replace the cover (so the water can't escape) and begin the test. I know you can attach a rope or chain to the plug so it can be pulled out, but then how can you replace the clean-out cover so it is in place while testing?

I'm looking at $35,000 to repair my foundation so I'm trying to save money where I can. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Steve

 

[Caduceus]

You don't replace the clean out cover during testing. The test ball must be inserted to block the flow of water. Depending on the depth of the sewer from the clean out, the test ball will have a long hose attached to it for filling it with bike pump. Usually to 35 psi and no more, so you will need a bike pump with a gauge built into it. A light chain attached with a clamp is what i put on my test balls for retrieving them after testing. The test balls with the long and extra long nozzles are quite expensive, too. You then lower it so that it does not allow water to flow past it when inflated blocking the sewer.

 

[DeSotoSteve]

Thanks for the reply. Last night, I removed the cap from the c/o. The sewer lateral is about 18" below ground level. The vertical part of the c/o curves away from the house toward the street. If I understand you correctly, I need to drop the test ball into the c/o and try to turn it back toward the house. The c/o is 4". I assume there is enough space in the "Y" part of the c/o to allow the plug to make the turn?

Here is a link to the plug that I was thinking of buying (about $35):
//http://www.plumbingsupply.com/images/short-test-ball-balloon.jpg

Thanks again.

Steve

 

[Another-Plumber]

[/QUOTE]Cherne Industries 274526 Test Ball Plug Pneumatic 3-4 in

thats the one you need, you need the long one... insert the test ball into the pipe 1/2 in the fitting 1/2 in the horizontal pipe... pump it up.... run water down you drains until you see water come up into the bathtub or shower... let it sit, water level should not drop if done correctly... if you have plastic pipes you probley dont have a leak, if you have old cast iron or gal drains, then im sure you will have a leak,, blame Drano... but between you and me, i wouldnt worry about some leak under your slab, it happens all the time.. Unless you live on a hill with unstable soil dont stress... call someone else in for a 2nd, because no matter what, ITS ALL ABOUT THE $$$...

 

[Mr_David]

Just a crude sketch of how the plug will go into the clean out.
And secure the saftey chain because you do not want to loose that test plug down the drain.

 

[Another-Plumber]

TY... Mr David..

 

[ThePlumbingGods]

My company would do that for someone as a regular service call.It couldn't take more then an hour so why would you pay way more then an hourly rate?There is hardly any work involved at all.It kinda makes me mad watching these company's getting away with raping people.

I agree with Another Plumber-"Unless you live on a hill with unstable soil dont stress"

Its not like the water is under pressure so it isn't gonna create a giant wash out under the foundation.water takes the least resistant pathway and that would be the drain.

 

[Another-Plumber]

i would think a fair price would be $250, since you would have to come back after an hour or so to retrive your $100 Donkey $^#$.... that is a basic water test, all new construction would have to pass inspection

 

[Caduceus]

My two cents. The first paragraph of the poster's thread makes clear of the importance of the static drain test. Regardless of the material(s), a leak in a sewer can have expensive consequences or create a safety hazard. Any type of material can be defective, is subject to environment and could also be poorly installed. I have seen first hand the types of issues that can arise from leaking or damaged sewers. Collapsed foundations and homes, contamination of fresh water sources and cesspools that serve as breeding grounds for parasites and disease. These things go on right under our noses and they remain ignored until something bad happens to somebody.
Especially because of the type of solution that is being proposed by the engineer, a repair is needed if the test fails.

 

[Another-Plumber]

my 2 cent , is sounds like a hustle for 30K for a small crack in a slab

 

[DeSotoSteve]

Thanks to the advice I received here, I was able to perform the test. It appears I have a major problem. It took FOREVER to fill the system up once I plugged the clean-out. I was finally able to get the water to rise to the top of the shower drain, but once I turned the water off, it quickly dropped.

I remembered that I have a clean-out on the side of my house. (By the way, yes, my house was built on a slope so I have--or had--a lot of fill dirt under one end of my house.) When I checked to make sure the water wasn't leaking from the clean-out, I noticed what appears to be a lot of water leaking through my brick veneer (see attached photo).

So, looks like I have a significant leak in my drain system which has washed away the fill dirt and caused my slab to shift. Some questions for you guys:

1. Any advice for how to find someone to help me pinpoint the leak? Seems to me it could be anywhere since the water would naturally pool at the bottom of the slope--I can't assume the leak is near the wall where the water is seeping through the brick.

2. Any chance my homeowner's policy might cover some of the repair costs? I'm with State Farm. I read the policy but it seems to exclude damages caused by this kind of problem.

I'm in the Memphis area, so if you happen to know any companies around here that could help, I'd appreciate any recommendations.

Thanks again for your comments.

Steve

 

[Another-Plumber]

have a plumber camera the line, and a smoke test may be in order, no matter what fix the plumbing before you go further..