loners4me
Member
I just tiled my entire shower and think I forgot to include a part. DO I need to remove a few tiles and install this black wheel part or can I proceed without it. Im really kicking myself right now...
Shower help w/ pic
- Thread starter loners4me
- Start date
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You don't NEED the black plaster ring installed. In fact, you would have to remove it before installing the cover plate. But you do need more room around the cartridge to be able to service the valve. If the valve has stop valves on it, you would want to be able to access those to shut off the water to the valve without shutting off the whole house, and at the very least you need to be able to pull the retaining clip out from the top of the valve.
A tile grinder should be used to open the hole just smaller than the cover plate.
loners4me
Member
what about a dremmel. I read they make tile bits (#562 or 582)
Sure, give it a try and tell me how it works out. If it does work, I will need to purchase one as well!
A dremel would do an awesome job. Of course, I am a giant dremel whore and use it for everything so maybe I am biased.
EDIT: Adding some possibly helpful stuff after taking a closer look.
Looks like a Moen Bayhill.
The plaster guard, which you have forgotten, is there to make sure that the valve is in the correct position. It is not technically a required piece as it does not affect the function of the unit.
That being said, it does not appear as if your valve is seated correctly. It should stick out of the wall quite a bit more than that in order to be able to access the cartridge retaining clip. In fact, it looks like it is recessed so far back that your handle won't even attach properly.
Check out this horribly long-winded video (skip ahead to about 1:15) to see how it should be sticking out from the wall.
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B4k438w-tDs[/ame]
EDIT: Adding some possibly helpful stuff after taking a closer look.
Looks like a Moen Bayhill.
The plaster guard, which you have forgotten, is there to make sure that the valve is in the correct position. It is not technically a required piece as it does not affect the function of the unit.
That being said, it does not appear as if your valve is seated correctly. It should stick out of the wall quite a bit more than that in order to be able to access the cartridge retaining clip. In fact, it looks like it is recessed so far back that your handle won't even attach properly.
Check out this horribly long-winded video (skip ahead to about 1:15) to see how it should be sticking out from the wall.
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B4k438w-tDs[/ame]
Last edited:
eergie
Member
Or work behind a good tile guy.
They do make a handle extension kit for for that.
The black ring is usually left on and the tile setter will tile up to it.
I Have opened tile to replace a valve with a masonry drill bit.
You have to drill a series of holes very close together. 1/4" spacing will do.
Then use a flat tip screwdriver and hammer and carefully tap and chip out the tile.
The black ring is usually left on and the tile setter will tile up to it.
I Have opened tile to replace a valve with a masonry drill bit.
You have to drill a series of holes very close together. 1/4" spacing will do.
Then use a flat tip screwdriver and hammer and carefully tap and chip out the tile.
LOL, we have had some of the same experiences, Mr. David.
The plaster guard does indeed serve a use. There is a gasket on the back of the circular chrome trim which needs to butt up against something firm
to create a good seal. Without the firm fit, the gasket will sort of work, but at some point in the future (22 years for one of my Moen valves),
the gasket comes loose from the trim, and water leaks behind the valve (down to the ceiling in the room below, in my case!).
I jerry-rigged a plaster guard substitute out of a circular piece of stiff plastic; am installing this afternoon.
to create a good seal. Without the firm fit, the gasket will sort of work, but at some point in the future (22 years for one of my Moen valves),
the gasket comes loose from the trim, and water leaks behind the valve (down to the ceiling in the room below, in my case!).
I jerry-rigged a plaster guard substitute out of a circular piece of stiff plastic; am installing this afternoon.
The plaster guard is designed to protect the rough in valve during construction and to aid in determining the required rough in depth. Also, the diameter allows for a maximum opening behind the escutcheon so that the gasket still seals and the valve can be replaced through that same opening. I have replaced many shower valves through the hole behind the escutcheon and it takes about two hours.
